I have a 87 with a 3800 SC Getrag 5 speed. new clutch, ( tried three different ones) P Plate TO bearing. Dickman Hydralics, pedal assembly. Flywheel machined. My issue is simialr to ones I have seen here. I cannot engage or disengage 1st, 2nd or reverse once the car gets hot. Its not air in the lines. I have the adjustable push rod. And everything else they sell. I have not tried the shift cable adjustment because it was not intutive to me why it would make any difference hot or cold. But its the only thing I havent tried. Does anyone know where I can find the correct proceedure to check alignment / adjustment? If this doesnt work i am etting rid of this car. Two yars is way too long to fix this. Also, I am a NAISE mechanic. Worked for Porsche when I was younger. Know my way around cars. Just cannot solve this and tired of trying. Had the engine / trans out six times. Not doing it again. Thanks, Mike
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12:45 PM
PFF
System Bot
Nazareth Member
Posts: 730 From: morristown, TN Registered: Aug 2003
Maybe , but how does the air know when its hot or not? When its cold, shifts normally. No issues at all. Drive it for ten minutes and you cant shift. and I pressure bled it from the mc back to the slave cylinder with the rear of the car elevated to a level that the slave cylinder was higher than the master cylinder. Used a SNAP On machine used for anti lock brake systems. And the pedal does not exhibit any of the classic indications that there is air. No mushy pedal. No pedal slowly sink to the floor. Pedal doesnt get better if you pump it etc. Thanks, Mike
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08:03 PM
Mike Gonzalez Member
Posts: 5093 From: Colorado Springs, CO. USA Registered: Jul 2001
There is no cable to adjust. When you bled the system did you do it with the slave pushrod compressed into the slave ? If not there is a spot that doesnt get bled behind the bleeder valve. Have you checked for a bent pedal ? If you have the adjustable master pushrod it should adjust out most of the bend, but if its too bad it may not.
Edit to add, air is more dense when cold then hot.
[This message has been edited by Mike Gonzalez (edited 06-17-2011).]
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08:13 PM
fierofool Member
Posts: 12823 From: Auburn, Georgia USA Registered: Jan 2002
If you're bleeding and the air is coming back, you're probably boiling the fluid. Check the fluid line coming into the engine compartment. See if it is close to a coolant line or exhaust. If so, insulate it, then bleed the system again. To eliminate the trapped bubble in the slave, raise the drivers side of the car a little higher than the passenger side before bleeding. That will allow any trapped air to move upward toward the bleeder valve.
I doubt adjusting the cable is going to help. To reset the cable (only one is adjustable on the Getrag) have a look at this thread www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/108049.html and follow my instructions (the fourth post down from the top). It's easy.
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08:58 PM
Mike Gonzalez Member
Posts: 5093 From: Colorado Springs, CO. USA Registered: Jul 2001
Ah, shift cables....I was only thinking of the clutch. I doubt adjusting the shift cables will help, you have the classic symptoms of air in the hydraulics.
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09:07 PM
Jun 19th, 2011
risktk1r Junior Member
Posts: 5 From: King of Prussia PA Registered: Mar 2011
Thank you every one. I found the problem. ( more correctly a local sprint car guy did) It seems the clutch push rod was adjusted so the the extension was too far. Meaning it disengaged to the point here it caused the clutch disc to touch the flywheel. The guy assumed when the clutch got hot, it was a small amount thicker. He adjusted it back about 1/4 inch. Works fine. I feel like a chump. Oh well.
I have a new issue. If I accelerate gradually, the engine pulls strong right up to redline. If I step on it, immediate WOT , it accelerates and then seems to run out of gas. Like the fuel pump is shutting off. I dont remember it doing this before. Maybe it did. Its just been sitting so long I dont remember. 1987 GT 2002 GTP SC 3.8 motor. Getrag 5 speed. Thanks again for everyones help. And Happy Fathers day if it applies!!
Sounds very similar to the problem a customer of mine has. I documented it in this thread here: www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/116888.html It's an intermittent problem so it's hard to diagnose since it's not behaving badly at the moment. If you find the cause, please post the solution because I'm still scratching my head.
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11:44 AM
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17091 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
The OP has either solved his problems by now... or he's sold the car.
quote
Originally posted by risktk1r:
If this doesnt work i am etting rid of this car. Two years is way too long to fix this. Also, I am a NAISE mechanic. Worked for Porsche when I was younger. Know my way around cars. Just cannot solve this and tired of trying. Had the engine / trans out six times. Not doing it again.