But I do recommend putting a towel or blanket under the nose in case you do jack it up a little too high. You won't end up scraping the paint that way.
[This message has been edited by Toddster (edited 02-01-2012).]
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11:26 AM
Feb 7th, 2012
bcampbell Member
Posts: 260 From: B.C., Canada Registered: Nov 2011
Just wanted to add some notes from my own recent experience.
First, my electric impact gun is my best friend for jobs like these. I was worried about having trouble with the cradle bolts as I live in Canada and even though the car doesn't have much rust, it doesn't take much for bolts to sieze up. I started a week earlier soaking the cradle bolts in 'deep creep', my favorite penetrating oil. I used my impact gun to break all of the bolts loose, and although one of the rear bolts started spinning, the impact gun was able to get it free enough that I just used a 9/16 wrench above the head of the bolt and a rachet to finish working it loose. Obviously I will need to get that welded up again but it didn't prolong the job of removing the engine. Without the impact gun, I doubt I would have gotten anywhere without cutting the frame open. The gun I have I bought for <$100 and it has the ability to adjust the torque from 70-350 ft-lbs. This is one tool that I recommend buying if you do not have access to an air compressor. In Canada they go on sale once in a while for that price at Canadian Tire. They're normally priced at about $250 though IIRC.
Second, because I'm cheap and didn't want to build a cart for dropping the cradle onto, I opted instead to drop the cradle right onto the legs of the lift. It worked beautifully and as soon as the car was high enough, I rested the car on two jack stands that were on some wood I stacked up. As a back-up, in case the jack stands tilted, I also placed the two rear wheels under the car as added protection. For me, this made the job much more simple and I was able to accomplish the job in 3 1/2 hours by myself, first try.
Some pics of how I did it:
Hope this helps someone else with their future engine removal!
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02:27 AM
Feb 21st, 2012
Toddster Member
Posts: 20871 From: Roswell, Georgia Registered: May 2001
I've done this on a couple West coast cars, which have had no rust... and we were able to get the cradle bolts out with just 1/2" drive ratchets and some muscle. I pity those who aren't so lucky.
Also, I'll add in yet another vote for the GM FSM version of lifting the car - do so with the jacks and a big section of wood, it's a lot easier to get things aligned later. Alternatively, a friend and I once took a slightly longer route, and took the rear bumper fascia off, and lifted the car by the rear bumper attachment points using some heavy lifting straps and an engine hoist. Longer, but makes lifting and lowering the car easier. I still advocate the floor jack and wood method.
Well no, using the trunk latch isn't the right way to do it. I was just talking with someone who did have the whole latch section tear out and the car fell! (Yes they were doing it carefully and on a perfectly rust free trunk). FFS, don't do it unless you really don't care about your car and possible injuries. Now that I've said that, go ahead and do it anyway.
I'll proceed to do it skitime's way (a.k.a. the factory manual way, i.e. the right way). Great post though. I've had this bookmarked since the beginning and I'm finally breaking my cradle bolts loose today. I hope to have the engine out this weekend!
Yeah i would not recommend using the trunk latch my ripped out and almost took my friends head with it. Atleast i know he can move fast enough to dodge a bullet. Latch flew across my garage and stuck in the wall. So once again do not do this.
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12:02 AM
Apr 23rd, 2012
Toddster Member
Posts: 20871 From: Roswell, Georgia Registered: May 2001
First, my electric impact gun is my best friend for jobs like these...... Second, because I'm cheap and didn't want to build a cart for dropping the cradle onto, I opted instead to drop the cradle right onto the legs of the lift.
BOTH are great tips...But I doubt you are as cheap as you think, I'll bet the impact gun set you back a few bucks.
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11:36 AM
Toddster Member
Posts: 20871 From: Roswell, Georgia Registered: May 2001
Originally posted by chanoric: Yeah i would not recommend using the trunk latch my ripped out and almost took my friends head with it. Atleast i know he can move fast enough to dodge a bullet. Latch flew across my garage and stuck in the wall. So once again do not do this.
Thanks for posting it. Like I said in the beginning each car is different and although I have lifted cars with the engine in them by the latch with no incident, rust belt people are more likely to be leary of this technique. But you are the first person I have heard who actually had a failure so I will mention it in an edit.
I sent you an email request for a copy of the current Word /PDF document.
Here's a tip I heard from a local Fiero owner/mechanic (I haven't tried it yet, but it sure makes sense): To get a bit more ground clearance and added safety when working under a Fiero, jack-up the front end and put a set of old rims (with tires left on and outside face of rims facing down on the floor) underneath the front two wheels. This helps to raise the car a couple of inches and act like wheel chocks to prevent the car from rolling in any direction. Smaller size old rims (13"?) with tires may help to raise the car a bit higher and are available from wreckers fairly cheap.
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01:36 PM
fierobear Member
Posts: 27079 From: Safe in the Carolinas Registered: Aug 2000
I sent you an email request for a copy of the current Word /PDF document.
Here's a tip I heard from a local Fiero owner/mechanic (I haven't tried it yet, but it sure makes sense): To get a bit more ground clearance and added safety when working under a Fiero, jack-up the front end and put a set of old rims (with tires left on and outside face of rims facing down on the floor) underneath the front two wheels. This helps to raise the car a couple of inches and act like wheel chocks to prevent the car from rolling in any direction. Smaller size old rims (13"?) with tires may help to raise the car a bit higher and are available from wreckers fairly cheap.
WOW, good tip!
That made me think of another one. I noticed that the donut spare has a hole in the middle. Put the donut spare on when you need to remove the hub nut on the half shafts. Then you don't have to dick around trying to keep the transmission from spinning when you undo the 200ft/lbs of torque to get it off (and put it back on).
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09:39 PM
KaijuSenso Member
Posts: 911 From: Westland, MI Registered: Jan 2007
Just throwing this out there again. You don't need to do anything with the nose of the car if you just use a floor jack to lift the car. I've recently dropped the cradle again using my same set up and it worked flawlessly. There should be some pictures I posted a page or so back in this thread. Use a 4x4 that fits across the bottom of the car about where the jacking points are then lift it in the center with the floor jack. It seems a lot safer then lifting by the trunk latch.
Todd, Thank you for emailing me the Fiero V6 Manual Word document so quickly! It will definitely be used for future reference and placed in my Fiero Library. I also left you well deserved positive feedback. Cheers, John
------------------ Now new owner of a Black TTop 88 Fiero GT and owner of a Silver 88 Fiero GT. Also a second time owner of an 85 Fiero GT. Bought my first fully loaded Red Fiero GT new in 1985. Fiero's are Fabulous, Fix'em and have Fun! Note, Avatar picture is Mr. Bean (not me, ha ha).
--- AND A + to you
