this looks very enticing to me, anyone care to chime in? I wont have ac or ps in my swap. sorry to the creator of the photo and i will take the pic down upon request if you want me to
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08:26 PM
PFF
System Bot
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17091 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
Usually the tensioner is the first item on the feed end of belt path. On this setup, the tensioner will have to take up all the tension generated by the blower drag, hope it has a really strong spring. Larry
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08:35 PM
darkhorizon Member
Posts: 12279 From: Flint Michigan Registered: Jan 2006
I would be afraid of supercharger belt slip on this one... If running a stock pulley I would attempt it, but it was just last week I tossed a SC belt on my stock gtp..... Drove it home and popped it back on along with a new tensioner pulley.
That is pretty much exactly how I have mine set up. Mine is a series 1 SC though, so everything is on the inner line. I only ever had slip in the wet when my alt was starting to seize up, but haven't had any problems since then.
If you wanna half azz the swap then use that method...If you wanna do it right then run 2 belts the way they where desinged to run...Just my thought....
That's a really good idea in theory, however, I think I rather have a separate belt for the supercharger. Why, not exactly sure...just seems more "safe" that way. I do like how they mounted the alternator down low like that though.
This idea i think could be improved upon but not worth it. I intend to use the stock dogbone bracket up top modified so i can attatch a tensioner to it and put my alt in place of the ac. does anyone have any insight on modifying the db bracket.
i like that first picture a lot. one belt for all seems great. plenty of wrap on all pulley i would think.
i have used a reveresed water pump pulley like that and it works very well.
my only concern is the same as trottrlg. the tensioner will need very strong spring.
if you were to run the belt up the other side of the water pump up to the other tensioner then back down to the damper the tensioner would be on the slack side of the belt. not as short and sweet. but a good back up plan.
[This message has been edited by ricreatr (edited 02-20-2012).]
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09:16 AM
Dennis LaGrua Member
Posts: 15147 From: Hillsborough, NJ U.S.A. Registered: May 2000
If you wanna half azz the swap then use that method...If you wanna do it right then run 2 belts the way they where desinged to run...Just my thought....
Must agree. Putting all the driven elements on the same drive belt (most with less than the recommended 50% belt wrap) is not the way to a good engine swap. You ahave four accessories to drive. Supercharger, A/C compressor, Alternator and Water Pump . Putting all the load on a single belt will result in short belt life and/or slippage . The right way is indeed using two drive belts
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
great argument dark, i was thinking the EXACT same thing. the cobalt ss using only 1 belt... And i think they're driving all of the accessories with 1 belt
great argument dark, i was thinking the EXACT same thing. the cobalt ss using only 1 belt... And i think they're driving all of the accessories with 1 belt
But that's also an M62 not an M90. Just a thought.
I wouldnt jump on the "you have to use 2" train so fast.. The cobalts use 1....
How many swaps have you done and only used one belt....I mean you are one of the cheapest get away with what you can swappers and even you use both belts in the manner they should be....
Also you are just adding more strain on the SC and robbing from it.......Just use the stock setup and put this thought in the past....
i like that first picture a lot. one belt for all seems great. plenty of wrap on all pulley i would think.
i have used a reveresed water pump pulley like that and it works very well.
my only concern is the same as trottrlg. the tensioner will need very strong spring.
if you were to run the belt up the other side of the water pump up to the other tensioner then back down to the damper the tensioner would be on the slack side of the belt. not as short and sweet. but a good back up plan.
The belt is contact the crank pully less then 1/3; not good, especially if EVERYTHING is run off it...
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08:14 PM
lateFormula Member
Posts: 1048 From: Detroit Rock City Registered: Jul 2002
If you must use one belt, don't use the tensioner on the right side of the engine. Use the tensioner on the left side, and fabricate yourself a bracket that holds two idler pulleys side by side:
That way you get adequate belt wrap on all the important pulleys.
That would work just fine. I don't know why anyone is saying otherwise
50% wrap? That better be a joke. 3.4TDC has maybe 20% at most on the water pump and the 2.8l RWD has around 35% on the alternator. These are just some examples
Too much load on the supercharger? Two belts on the same harmonic balancer with same accessories is same load. The SC doesn't turn the accessories so that is just silly and the belt should be just as tight so...
This is how I have mine. On the inside acc crank pulley. I retained the stock supercharge belt routing when I had a blower. No squealing or over heating. The belt is pretty tight like that.
That is pretty much exactly how I have mine set up. Mine is a series 1 SC though, so everything is on the inner line. I only ever had slip in the wet when my alt was starting to seize up, but haven't had any problems since then.
pretty much exact same on my series1 sc also, except I added a pulley by the alt to get more wrap around alt pulley.
This is how I have mine. On the inside acc crank pulley. I retained the stock supercharge belt routing when I had a blower. No squealing or over heating. The belt is pretty tight like that.
At first for some reason i thought the pump was running in reverse.. i might just do mine like this, looks simple and clean
[This message has been edited by 84se2m4 (edited 02-21-2012).]
This is how I have mine. On the inside acc crank pulley. I retained the stock supercharge belt routing when I had a blower. No squealing or over heating. The belt is pretty tight like that.
simalar to mine, but I just used a small belt for the alt only and put it on the back crank slot. I inverted the WP pulley as well.
50% wrap? That better be a joke. 3.4TDC has maybe 20% at most on the water pump and the 2.8l RWD has around 35% on the alternator. These are just some examples
Not too sure whos post your refering to; but you have to also consider the type of belt that is used and if the belt is making contact on the smooth side or ribbed. Ribbed side would add more surface area in the contact-patch, some for a V-belt... Either way, I can see your point. However, I would never run so little contact on the crank pully (like pictured above); that looks like 25% contact at the most. It may work, but I sure as heII wouldn't feel comfortable with it
I have the N/A motor, but this is how my belt is routed...it's a nice gatorback belt, but still. I really don't like how little wrap the crank pulley is getting compared to how much the water pump and belt tensioner is getting. But others have had good luck with this setup, so I'll leave it alone for now. Maybe because the belt tensioner is pulling the belt directly against the crank pulley.
I have the N/A motor, but this is how my belt is routed...it's a nice gatorback belt, but still. I really don't like how little wrap the crank pulley is getting compared to how much the water pump and belt tensioner is getting. But others have had good luck with this setup, so I'll leave it alone for now. Maybe because the belt tensioner is pulling the belt directly against the crank pulley.
W/o the drag from a super charger, you may be ok... But that wouldn't be my first choice (mainly because I am not a fan of the high-mount alt.)...
I think the location of your dipstick may present a problem though; open your center console to check it?
[This message has been edited by ALJR (edited 02-21-2012).]
The high-mount alt doesn't look bad with an N/A...with a supercharger yes it really does. I plan on turbo later so it's all good. Oh, and I plan on installing the A/C compressor and lines at a later date, so that's why the alt isn't down there.
Edit: That's an old picture, so the dipstick is no longer like that.
[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 02-21-2012).]
The high-mount alt doesn't look bad with an N/A...with a supercharger yes it really does. I plan on turbo later so it's all good. Oh, and I plan on installing the A/C compressor and lines at a later date, so that's why the alt isn't down there.
Not so much the look of the alt. up high (although that does play a lil), rather notching the deck lid... Ahh, I was wondering why you didn't mount it where the a/c goes
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04:17 PM
Dennis LaGrua Member
Posts: 15147 From: Hillsborough, NJ U.S.A. Registered: May 2000
I have the N/A motor, but this is how my belt is routed...it's a nice gatorback belt, but still. I really don't like how little wrap the crank pulley is getting compared to how much the water pump and belt tensioner is getting. But others have had good luck with this setup, so I'll leave it alone for now. Maybe because the belt tensioner is pulling the belt directly against the crank pulley.
If you can relocate the idler pulley up a bit that would give the belt more contact with the crank pulley. Might be worth considering. BTW, what happened to the 4.9L?
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Not so much the look of the alt. up high (although that does play a lil), rather notching the deck lid... Ahh, I was wondering why you didn't mount it where the a/c goes
I don't have a problem notching the decklid if needed, but being a notchback and mounting the whole thing low, and two inches to the driver's side, I'm hoping I won't have too.
If you can relocate the idler pulley up a bit that would give the belt more contact with the crank pulley. Might be worth considering. BTW, what happened to the 4.9L?
Not sure how that would help any. I'll see how it works the way it is, and if it doesn't I will change it to a different routing I already know of. Nothing, I still have my 4.9 Fiero, haven't any of you seen my 3800/F23 thread in general chat? It's going in a different Fiero.
[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 02-21-2012).]