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Tricky Clutch won't disengage through full stroke. by FreakyFastFiero
Started on: 01-08-2012 01:05 PM
Replies: 2
Last post by: lordbg0205 on 01-08-2012 04:41 PM
FreakyFastFiero
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Report this Post01-08-2012 01:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FreakyFastFieroSend a Private Message to FreakyFastFieroDirect Link to This Post
First things first. I searched PFF and didn't find an answer. I have an 87 GT Getrag. I have bled the clutch fully through the gravity method and the slave as well. I bled almost a quart through the system. I have the steel clutch pedal so I assume it is not bent, although it can make it all the way to the floor. The problem is that the master seems to not push fluid until the pedal is like two thirds of the way through its full stroke. Is there a way that all the air is not out of the master? I have pulled back the carpet and did not see fluid coming out of the master, also no leaks on the ground. when bleeding with a friend pushing the pedal, there is no fluid moving out of the bleeder screw until the final third of the stroke. I can get the slave to move maybe a half inch. I have not yet checked to see if my master banjo was installed upside-down, but I feel that this would only make the car shift a little harder, as some were installed wrong at the factory but still worked when they were fresh. I'm thinking I might just buy a new master cylinder but I was looking for some ideas before it comes to that. Thanks for any ideas.
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phonedawgz
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Report this Post01-08-2012 01:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for phonedawgzClick Here to visit phonedawgz's HomePageSend a Private Message to phonedawgzDirect Link to This Post
Pump the clutch pedal 4 times and see if the pedal disengages more. If so there is air in the system. If not look for bent components under the dash.

An upside down banjo will reduce the effective pedal stroke.

If your clutch pedal is not 1" above the brake pedal at rest you have issues under the dash.

If stabbing the clutch pedal quickly with only one stroke gives you full disengagement but pushing it normally does not - you have a bad umbrella seal in your master cylinder. Also if the clutch slowly re-engages after if fully disengaged and holding it down, you have a bad umbrella seal in your master cylinder.

If you have less than 1 1/8" travel at the slave - you have either bent components or a problem with the hydraulic system.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 01-08-2012).]

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lordbg0205
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Report this Post01-08-2012 04:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for lordbg0205Send a Private Message to lordbg0205Direct Link to This Post
After having done this a few hundred times, i suggest that you break free the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder, tighten it back up to where you can open or close it easily with a closed ended wrench, take off the bolts for the slave cylinder and remove it. Hold the slave in your hand, loosen the screw, and push the piston as far as you can using the pin and hold it and keep it there, use a zip tie or something to keep it back in the bore. With the piston pushed back it keeps any air from being able to be trapped in there while bleeding, then bleed as normal, but remember that if you pump it with the screw closed you are going to break the zip tie. Tried all the gravity and vacuum stuff you can imagine, nothing worked well. finally took it into the garage and guess what, it was internal, the bearings had gone bad on the shifter fork from not being driven so it would never disengage the clutch all the way. good luck man
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