Anyone know the thread size of the security Torx screws that the decklid springs pivot on? I removed them the other day and forgot to measure.. Car is 90 miles away now, won't see it 'till next weekend..

Thanks!!

6 x 1 mm.

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Rodney Dickman

Fiero Parts And Acc's Web Page:
All new web page!:www.rodneydickman.com
Rodney Dickman's Fiero accessories
7604 Treeview Drive
Caledonia, WI 53108
Phone/Fax (262) 835-9575

Exercise extreme care when removing the special M6 Torx bolts from the torsion spring arms when they are under load but it sounds as though the spring pressure has already been released. The spring pressures that those torsion springs are under when released suddenly can easily break a finger and/or crack the rear window.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, ZZP Intercooler, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

Hmm, thought I'd posted a thanks from work earlier... I must not have hit send! Anyway, thanks!

Yep, the springs were already off. Vice-grips work when you don't have a sec. Torx, but aren't as easy.. My plan was to find a matching threaded ball stud to insert there for gas struts. Found them at Napa, but not stainless. I'll either re-tap to 5/16 if the tap drill takes out the threads, or drill and tap a new hole near by. -> I bought an unused '88 dual-strut kit and it fits perfectly on my '86 (drilled the grille brackets for the studs), but it turns out it was a "helper" kit and the struts aren't strong enough for a wing + Mustang scoop with no torsion springs.. (3800 install)

I figure I'd rig my own setup and let someone else use Rodney's nice kit on an '88.. While I'm ordering parts from McMaster... Anyone know the deck lid hinge bolt size? I want to get stainless for as much as I can! I hate rust!!! One hinge pin actually snapped on this car from rust..

[This message has been edited by Riceburner98 (edited 10-17-2011).]

quote Originally posted by Riceburner98: I want to get stainless for as much as I can! I hate rust!!!

You are aware, I hope, that using "stainless" fasteners isn't a cure-all. They can corrode, too, or the mating assembly may corrode due to dissimilar-metal contact.

For threaded fasteners and loose-fit shafts (e.g. the Fiero rear strut bolts) I highly recommend applying a good anti-seize compound before assembly ... especially where dissimilar metals are involved, such as a steel bolt or screw in an aluminum casting. I've been using anti-seize regularly for more than 40 years, and I don't think I've ever had a treated fitting seize up due to rust or corrosion. A little goes a long way; I'm still using the same 1-pint can of anti-seize that I bought back in the mid '60s. YMMV.

[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 10-18-2011).]

Wow, 1 pint is a LOT of anti-seize! I have a little tube of the copper kind, but honestly I haven't used it much at all.. I don't so much have a problem with the threads rusting / welding into the holes, more a problem of the hex head disintegrating into nothing close to a hex. I had considered buying some M10x1.5 bolts to hold my new alternator / tensioner bracket to the head, but after reading some bad stuff today about using stainless engine bolts I've reconsidered.. I've never had a stainless fastener corrode, but apparently high torque (ie: larger bolts) can cause the stainless to gall to a point where a brand new bolt will snap off on removal.. I'm going to stick with the paint-it-after-install method, and anti-seize on the threads I think.. The stainless ball studs for the gas struts should be OK I think... I almost went with stainless gas struts too, but they're $60 vs. $12 for painted steel. I can replace them 5 times for the cost of stainless ones.

Edit... While we're on the topic of stainless.... What's the point of a stainless hose clamp with a mild steel worm screw??? The band is perfectly fine after 5 years, but the screw dissolves down to nothing! Ugh.. I have some smaller ones that are marked "all stainless" that I love (re-used them from the stock V6 I took out, still like new) but can't find the big ones that way..

[This message has been edited by Riceburner98 (edited 10-18-2011).]

quote Originally posted by Riceburner98: What's the point of a stainless hose clamp with a mild steel worm screw???

I have no answer ... except perhaps lower manufacturing cost. A lot of design-to-cost parts seem to have long-term reliability issues.