So I got an 88 formula with 107k miles on it. It also has factory t tops #1068 to be exact. I drove it back from the guys house the day before yesterday and had a few problems, nothing major.
1) the transmission with grind from time to time going into second and third but less going into 3rd. If I shift slowly you can get it not to grind at all. I have seen were people are using syncomesh to fix slight grinding in their transmissions. Is this what I should do?
2) the only code that it is shooting that it shouldnt be is 15. I know I have to check the cable's resistance with a multimeter, but if it turns out to be the actual CTS when I take it out will this leak coolant?
3) the brakes are no very good at all, they do not stop the car well enough to pass inspection and the brake light goes on and off. It goes off when I press the brakes really hard and back on when I lightly press the brakes. Does this sound more like air in the lines? Or something else? Also when I press the brakes hard there is a clicking noise coming from the front right brake. I am thinking that this one is sticking but it hard to tell cause like I said the car hardly stops when I slam on the brakes.

Thanks for the help in advance!

Excellent Purchase!....(I have one too...so...)

If you don't know much about the fluids you should change them all. With that mileage i think your clutch is probably original, and wearing out, but synchromesh first to see what happens.

A brake job on an 88 is a big deal. If you can't do it, find somebody who is willing to learn, because it is different than just about any other car. My car also clicks from the front right caliper, has done so for years. A slight bend in the rotor will allow the piston to move just a little when you are braking, It can be cleaned up but it is not a safety issue.

Edit to add: A properly functioning brake system on an 88 is very good. I see no reason for upgrades if you are not racing.

Got any pictures?

[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 09-06-2011).]

Yes ill post some later tonight. I'm on my phone right now.

2) Yes, replacing the CTS will cause a leak. This sensor is near the top of the cooling system, so the leak won't be bad, but it will leak.

3) Brakes.... As Gal757 said, a brake job on an 88 is pretty involved. If you're used to doing your own brakes, I'd go for it, but if you typically have someone else do your brakes, I wouldn't start here. I have written up procedures for doing a brake job, and doing a full refurbishing (brake job plus flush, and cleaning out the whole system). Send me an email address, and I'll send you a copy of them. It will give you an idea of what's involved.

like to see you POST the "How to" on the brakes. I'll probably be getting into it myself. why is a 88 so much different than any other car ?

OK. But be warned, my procedures are pretty detailed. I must admit, I've never followed this exact procedure as it's written from start to finish. Reason being that after every brake job, I tweak the procedure. Sorry, I don't have any photos. Anyway, here it is:

Brake Job Procedure for 88 Fiero

Parts needed:
- Brake pads (Wagner Thermoquiet)
- 1/4" x 3.5" hardened spring pins (aka roll pins), 2 for each caliper.
- DOT 3 brake fluid
- brake cleaner

Tools:
- metric sockets & ratchet
- torx bits
- hammer
- floor jack
- jack stands
- Lug wrench
- Torque wrench
- Disk brake grease
- C-clamp or brake retraction tool
- Stiff wire or coat hangar

Rear brake job procedure:
- Lift rear of car and place on jack stands.
- Remove rear wheels.
- Remove caliper bridge (held on with two bolts)
- Remove rotors and have them resurfaced.
- Remove brake pads, keeping and protecting the pad retainer springs.
- Remove roll pins from calipers. Should be removable using vice grip pliers.
- Remove park brake return spring from caliper.
- Remove park brake lever from caliper.
- Using C-clamp or brake retraction tool, apply pressure to caliper piston while turning park brake mechanism shaft to allow piston to retract into caliper. Continue until piston bottoms out in caliper. Monitor fluid level in MC to prevent overflow. Note: brake retraction tool will require that caliper bridge be installed.
- Re-install park brake lever.
- Remove ONE caliper mount torx bolt.
- Twist and pull on caliper to remove the slider from the caliper.
- Remove torx bolt from slider, and re-install caliper using other slider and torx bolt.
- Twist and pull on caliper to remove the slider from the caliper.
- Remove torx bolt from slider.
- Remove any rubber slider boots that may still be on caliper.
- Using a stiff wire or a coat hanger, hang the caliper on the suspension spring to relieve stress from the hose.
- Using brake fluid, clean off sliders and slider bores.
- Clean slider boots
- Install & grease sliders & slider bores
- Note: Rubber boots fit into grooves in caliper slider bores, and are held there by the tight fit of the slider. Installed properly, the boots cannot be removed while the sliders are in place. These boots also fit into grooves on each end of the slider.
- Apply thin layer of grease to slider and slider bore.
- Install one rubber boot into groove in caliper slider bore.
- Install slider into slider bore from side opposite of installed boot. Take note of the slider. It can be installed backwards.
- Push end of slider past groove where boot attaches to caliper. Verify that slider didn't push boot out of groove.
- Continue pushing slider out the other side until the end of the slider is about in the middle of the slider bore. You will have to get the installed boot past the groove in the slider and onto the middle part of the slider.
- Do not push tail end of slider past groove where boot attaches to caliper
- Install other boot into groove in caliper.
- Fill boot with as much grease as possible
- Push slider back into caliper and just past groove where boot attaches to caliper. Verify that slider didn't push boot out of groove.
- Slide slider toward grease filled boot. Slide it beyond the point where the boot attaches to the slider, but do not allow the groove on the other boot to become unsecured by the slider.
- Detach the boot from the slider, and fill it with as much grease as possible.
- Center slider, and attach both boots to the grooves in the slider.
- Repeat for the other slider on the same caliper.
- Re-install caliper onto knuckle (two torx bolts torqued to 74? 40? ft-lbs)
- Verify that caliper slides easily (relatively) on sliders. Should be able to move caliper on slider with hand force.
- Using brake cleaner, clean inner braking surface of rotor. Continue cleaning until no evidence of contamination is left on cleaning cloth.
- Place rotor onto hub, taking great care NOT to touch the inner braking surface.
- Secure rotor in place with two lug nuts installed by hand.
- Re-install caliper bridge onto caliper (two bolts torqued to 74 ft-lbs)
- Using brake cleaner, clean outer braking surface of rotor. Continue cleaning until no evidence of contamination is left on cleaning cloth.
- Install new pads into caliper using retainer springs and new roll pins. Take care NOT to touch braking surfaces of rotor or pads.
- Drive new roll pins into caliper with a hammer. They should be flush with outer edge of bridge.
- Work park brake lever fore & aft to adjust mechanism and bring pad in contact with rotor.
- Re-install park brake spring.
- Repeat for other side.
- Verify operation of park brake.
- Adjust park brake if necessary.
- Get in car and "pump up" brake pedal to verify that pedal doesn't go to the floor before engaging. Use short pedal strokes to prevent MC piston seals from getting damaged.
- Verify that park brake is released.
- Remove hand installed lug nuts, and re-install wheels (lug nuts torqued to 80 ft-lbs).
- Crank engine and verify brake engagement BEFORE moving vehicle.
Front brake job procedure:
- Lift front of car and place on jack stands.
- Remove front wheels.
- Remove caliper bridge (held on with two bolts)
- Remove rotors and have them resurfaced.
- Remove brake pads, keeping and protecting the pad retainer springs.
- Remove roll pins from calipers. Should be removable using vice grip pliers.
- Using C-clamp or brake retraction tool, apply pressure to caliper piston to push it back into the caliper. Continue until piston bottoms out in caliper. Monitor fluid level in MC to prevent overflow.
- Remove ONE caliper mount torx bolt.
- Twist and pull on caliper to remove the slider from the caliper.
- Remove torx bolt from slider, and re-install caliper using other slider and torx bolt.
- Twist and pull on caliper to remove the slider from the caliper.
- Remove torx bolt from slider.
- Remove any rubber slider boots that may still be on caliper.
- Using a stiff wire or a coat hanger, hang the caliper on the suspension spring to relieve stress from the hose.
- Using brake fluid, clean off sliders and slider bores.
- Clean slider boots
- Install & grease sliders & slider bores (same procedure as above)
- Re-install caliper onto knuckle and torque the two torx bolts (not sure of torque spec)
- Verify that caliper slides easily (relatively) on sliders. Should be able to move caliper on slider with hand force.
- Using brake cleaner, clean inner braking surface of rotor. Continue cleaning until no evidence of contamination is left on cleaning cloth.
- Place rotor onto hub, taking great care NOT to touch the inner braking surface.
- Secure rotor in place with two lug nuts installed by hand.
- Re-install caliper bridge onto caliper (two bolts torqued to 74 ft-lbs)
- Using brake cleaner, clean outer braking surface of rotor. Continue cleaning until no evidence of contamination is left on cleaning cloth.
- Install new pads into caliper using new roll pins, and retainer springs. Take care NOT to touch braking surfaces of rotor or pads.
- Drive new roll pins into caliper with a hammer. They should be flush with outer edge of bridge.
- Repeat for other side.
- Get in car and "pump up" brake pedal to verify that pedal doesn't go to the floor before engaging. Use short pedal strokes to prevent MC piston seals from getting damaged.
- Remove hand installed lug nuts, and re-install wheels (lug nuts torqued to 80 ft-lbs).
- Crank engine and verify brake engagement before moving vehicle.

[This message has been edited by tehmaxfactr (edited 09-07-2011).]

I thought the brakes on my 88 were pretty bad too when I got it. Then I replaced the pads with EBC Green Stuff and put in new Super Blue brake fluid. Now it actually stops pretty good.

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-Chris
'85 V6 SE 4sp (SOLD)
'88 GT Auto (fun car)
'99 Kawasaki Vulcan 500, owned since new
'03 Sentra SE-R Spec V (Daily driver)
'09 G37x w/ Premium & Nav (wife's car)

No flame intended, but that is the by far the most difficult proceedure I have ever seen to do brakes on an 88...........

I got worn out just reading it!

By the way, very nice choice in a Fiero - there were only 37 yellow T-Top Formulas made - take good care of it!

[This message has been edited by olejoedad (edited 09-07-2011).]

DO NOT USE C CLAMP on 88 rear wheel calipers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Use the brake tool looks like a square to turn the pistons back. There is a correct procedure for each side. One side is counter clockwise and the other is clockwise. I dont recall off hand which is which. BUT DO NOT use the clamp on the rear calipers of an 88. Unless of course you have lots of $$ to throw away. 88 brakes are different from all the other years. I have done mine many times. Not bad to do. You want to be sure the slider pins that the pads slide on are clean and smooth so the pads can move easily. Also you want to be sure your caliper sliders are working and not stuck. They need to be lubed if they are not working. It was recommended by Ogre to us NAPA silicone lube for the caliper sliders. Great stuff. One of the forum members came up with a great tool to get them out. It is a short piece of pipe. Works great. If the boots are in good shape be very careful not to rip them. If they are original and in great shape they are the best. If you need new ones you can get some from the fiero store but they are POS! Rebuilt calipers will have the better boots. I found a source for good boots but I would have to buy 2000 boots. Taking the "bridge bolts" out is usually easier than trying to remove the slider pins that the pads rest on.I have done both ways and if sliders the pads are resting on are in good condition I will use me small "punch" to get them out and do that procedure. If you do the bridge bolts, Be sure to torque them to specs! All the bolts should be torqued to factory specs. Also if you are looking for the top of the line rotors for the rear, you can use NAPA's best rotors, not cheap ones made in china, from the early 90's Cavalier Front rotors. It is hard to find the best quailty front rotors for 88's. Lots of cheap junk from China is available. If you need part numbers for the NAPA rotors PM or email me. I also use the best street pads. Cutting cost on brake parts will cost you double in the long run. I find by using the best they last longer. You may want to replace your rubber brake lines that attach to the calipers with new rubber lines. I did and it made the brakes feel stronger.

Congrats on your find.

Steve W.
NE Grand Rapids, MI
88 Coupe

I torque my factory cast wheels at 100 ft lbs. That is the spec. I found it some place. Never let the monkeys at a tire store or dealer use the air wrench to torque your wheels. They can torque them by hand. If you take your car to a service center be sure to tell them not to let their monkeys jack the car up on the coolant tubes. Tell them if they do they will replace them or they can talk to your legal console. I have worked for dealers for years and the best techs have bent my tubes! Stupid they should know better.
If any tells you, you cant use the cavalier front rotors on the rear of the 88's you can tell them I have for a long time. I am now on my third set of rotors. So that should give you an idea of the thousands and thousands of miles I have used them. WITH OUT PROBLEMS. Just be sure your backing plates are not bent.

[This message has been edited by solotwo (edited 09-08-2011).]

Being an 88 owner I noticed the lights are in the up position when off. Mine were. It is easy to fix the lights so they go down when you shut then off. I did on mine after I found and installed 88 lights. One of the previous owners installed pre 87-88 lights and they did not work. Rodney Dickman will become a great source for getting some parts. He has a great kit that fixes the light problem. If I can install them anybody can. He has a great short shifter also. I have been driving my car with one daily now for almost 10 years. I wouldnt want the factory tall bent shifter. It would feel weird.

Steve W.
NE Grand Rapids, MI
88 Coupe

[This message has been edited by solotwo (edited 09-08-2011).]

tehmax, very nice Formula !

There's not to many yellow ones around. Nice to see you got a nice one...

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fierogt28

88 GT, Loaded, 5-speed.
88 GT, 5-speed. All original.

I have a formula too. Not as nice as yours, Nice Car. I found that when your all done doing the brakes, if you have to give them a pump to feel firm, the parking brake needs to be set a couple of times. This adjusts the pistons. I lived with this for a year before i figured this out.

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Project Genisis Lo Budget 3800SC swap in progress

88 formula 3.4L 4t60 swap

very nice buy, congratulations! if you want to spend some more money, i may be selling my suspension soon...

if you don't mind telling, how much did you give for it? i gave $3000 for my sunroof 5-speed formula, and had to fix a bunch of stuff on top of it. lol..

and how did you figure out what build number it is? i'd like to find that out for mine too.

well guys it is not a factory yellow... but yellow is my favorite color of them. I just registered my t top on fiero.net with my vin and it told me a bunch of information. Kind of funny i also paid 3000$ for mine.


Edit. I actually left my lights on for picture purposes. They do go down when I cut the off.

[This message has been edited by tehmaxfactr (edited 09-08-2011).]

sweet, i'm going to head over there right now. i wonder if the red on mine is factory. it's flaking pretty bad on the bumpers. mine had a bunch of money thrown into it about 11 years ago, so even though i've had to do a few things here and there, i'm happy with it. i want to paint mine black, but i don't have the patience to do it myself, and i've already spent almost 5 grand on it in the last couple months. lol

I knew my factory color. Also it just told me more info on the t top registry.

On the sticker on the left front inner fender it will tell you the factory color - the very bottom of the sticker has the paint codes.

Or you can usually spot the original color under the plastic trim plate at the base of the windshield, or inside the wheel wells after the liners come out.

quote Originally posted by olejoedad: On the sticker on the left front inner fender it will tell you the factory color - the very bottom of the sticker has the paint codes.

lol... i don't know why i didn't think of that. i always seem to overlook the obvious. i'm still jealous maxfactor has a t-top though. hehe

quote Originally posted by solotwo: DO NOT USE C CLAMP on 88 rear wheel calipers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Use the brake tool looks like a square to turn the pistons back. There is a correct procedure for each side. One side is counter clockwise and the other is clockwise. I dont recall off hand which is which. BUT DO NOT use the clamp on the rear calipers of an 88. Unless of course you have lots of $$ to throw away.

Note that I said:

quote Originally posted by Formula Owner: Using C-clamp or brake retraction tool, apply pressure to caliper piston WHILE turning park brake mechanism shaft to allow piston to retract into caliper.

If you use a C-clamp without turning the park brake mechanism (to allow the piston to retract back in to the caliper), you can destroy the caliper. That's why I included the part "...WHILE turning park brake mechanism shaft to allow piston to retract into caliper". However, I have tried the "correct" square tool, and all it does on my car is spin the piston in place. The piston does not retract. The method I described is what I had to use to get the piston to actually retract. If you want to just watch your piston spin in place, by all means, get one of those square tools. I could have added more detail to this step, but as you can see, the procedure is already long enough.

quote Originally posted by solotwo: I torque my factory cast wheels at 100 ft lbs. That is the spec. I found it some place.

The spec from the Helms manual is 80-100 ft-lbs. I torque to 80 to make the lugs easier to remove with the little lug wrench that came with the car.