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Fiberglass Crack Repair Recommendations Help by billybad5
Started on: 08-29-2011 04:27 AM
Replies: 3
Last post by: Tha Driver on 08-29-2011 11:00 AM
billybad5
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Report this Post08-29-2011 04:27 AM Click Here to See the Profile for billybad5Send a Private Message to billybad5Direct Link to This Post
I need to do some fiberglass work, not on my fiero, but my Ford Model Tee Go Cart. It has some cracks in the fiberglass and i was wondering what the best repair method would be? Also ive never worked with fiberglass. Ive added pics of the problem areas. The last 3 are just pics of the car.










thanks in advance,
billy
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rogergarrison
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Report this Post08-29-2011 10:28 AM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonDirect Link to This Post
Grind off all the paint in the repair area. 'countersink' or dish out the area thats actually cracked. Do this on the inside and outside of the part. Get a fiberglass repair kit at somewhere like Autozone that contains the resin, hardener and cloth matt. Cut the matting with scissors to fit the area...one for inside and one for outside. Mix the resin and lay the matt in it, then apply that matting to the area. You can use some wide masking tape to hold it in place if needed. When its cured, sand down and apply another layer if needed. You can finish it off with regular filler or do like I do and use Dynaglass filler. Its filler with glass strands mixed in it.. Sand and primer, paint as any other part. I usually leave the inside patch unfinished for the most part other than just smooth down the edges. Thicker will give it more strength. If you dont use matt or do the inside too, it will crack back pretty easily. Use of latex gloves is recommended

The cracks on the running board are near impossible because of the diamond pattern. Fix the glass the same as above, but Id make some metal replacements to bolt on over the top. If you dont want to do that, you can just use something like bedliner to put some texture on it. You could match the original, but it would be time consuming or expensive to have someone else do it. Ive done parts where I finished it all smooth and make myself a little casting of the pattern. Then put a layer of filler over the area and press my pattern casting into it before it hardens and only lightly sand the edges before painting it.

[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 08-29-2011).]

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Gall757
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Report this Post08-29-2011 10:40 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Direct Link to This Post
NM. Roger knows.

[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 08-29-2011).]

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Tha Driver
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Report this Post08-29-2011 11:00 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Tha DriverClick Here to visit Tha Driver's HomePageSend a Private Message to Tha DriverDirect Link to This Post
First, grind the back with a 24 grit disc. Don't "countersink" the back. Lay three layers of mat mixed with resin on the back. Once that dries, "V" out the cracks on the top with the 24 grit & fill them with layers of mat mixed with resin. You can cut the mat into small slivers for the bottom of the V, & wider strips as you build it up. Do this with all the spider cracks too. Once that dries grind it flat & finish it out with bondo. No need for "Kitty Hair" or any of the bondo type shtuff that has 'glass strands in it.
Like Roger says, the pattern on the running boards will take a LOT of time to finish out if you want it to look exactly the same. You might want to just smooth that out & glue on a piece of rubber mat.
HTH,
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

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