After installing a new oil preasure sensor, the needle is still "bouncing" all over the gauge and I'm thinking the 3 pronged connector is bad. How difficult a task is it and where can I find out how to do it?

Thanks again for all the help
Rich

quote Originally posted by RPYRAZOO: After installing a new oil preasure sensor, the needle is still "bouncing" all over the gauge and I'm thinking the 3 pronged connector is bad. How difficult a task is it and where can I find out how to do it? Thanks again for all the help Rich

Could have a bad unit still OR a bad ground.

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86 Fiero 2M4 Silver, and 86 GT

quote Originally posted by RPYRAZOO: After installing a new oil preasure sensor, the needle is still "bouncing" all over the gauge and I'm thinking the 3 pronged connector is bad. How difficult a task is it and where can I find out how to do it? Thanks again for all the help Rich

Where did you get the new sender? I've gotten new ones that were bad right out of the box. Had to pay a little more for a better brand from NAPA.

Key on, engine off, have someone sit and look at the oil pressure gauge and have someone else wiggle around the connector.

0 ohms on the sending unit = 0 psi

90 ohms = full scale reading

Disconnected = more than full scale reading.

If your 'bounce' includes the needle going to more than full scale, your sending unit connector is most likely bad.

The tan middle wire runs the gauge

The orange/black wire is +12v always on from the fuel pump fuse

The tan white wire runs to the fuel pump.

So only the middle tan wire does anything with the gauge.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 08-24-2011).]

Thanks for the info. Bought the sender from NAPA ($55) so I'm assuming that isn't the problem. Concentrating on the connector, I'll get one from the FS or NAPA., but how do I install it, or do I have to take it to a mechanic?
Thanks,
Rich

Cut the old one off, strip back the wires and solder on the new one. It's best to use shrink tube to insulate your soldered splices. Electrical tape sucks for insulating engine splices. If the copper wires of the engine harness look black on the outside after you strip them back, scrape them till they are looking like copper. Cutting back farther from the connector using the tail of the new connector as a guide is best. Water gets up into the wires under the insulation and corrodes the outside of the copper strands of the wire for a few inches at the connectors. USE SOLDER - twisted wires are destined to fail. I hate any crimp connectors in an exposed area (well actually any area). Crimp connectors are destined to fail. Tape the harness back up after you are finished.

The tan wire goes to the center pin.

The Orange/Black wire and the Tan/White wire can go to either of the two outside terminals. It doesn't matter which one goes to which.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 08-25-2011).]

Thanks MUCH....wish me luck!
Rich