This weekend I replaced the ignition module on my 86 2.8. The plastic covering the wires from the pickup coil to the ignition module split and fell of in my hand. Can I just get the plastic covering from some where or do I need to install a new pickup coil? Also can I install a new pickup coil without taking the distributor out of the car?

have to replace the coil and the dizzy has to come out to do it (lower roll pin at drive gear has to come out to get to the pickup)

Technically, the plastic wire insulation isn't replaceable. Sure, you could re-insulate it with liquid electrical tape. But now that the copper wire has been exposed to air (and moisture), it will start to corrode. Besides, if the wires in that bad a shape, the rest of the pickup coil probably isn't in that great a shape, either.

And yeah, unfortunately you have to remove and disassemble the distributer. But if you manually turn the engine to TDC #1 before removing the distributer, it should make it easier to re-install the distributer and reset the timing.

Make sure the green and white wires are not able to get pinched by the distributor cap. If they get pinched, the ignition system WILL fail in a few months when the plastic insulation eventually gets cut through.



This is for the V-6

Removing the distributor


Replacing the pick up coil




Replacing the distributor



Timing the engine after replacing the distributor into the block

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 08-22-2011).]

I just replaced the pick-up coil in my 88GT last night. Remove the coil to give you more room to work. It's just secured by 2 screws, two wire connectors (grey and black), and the high voltage wire going to the distributor.
Remove the cap and ignition module. Before you remove the clamp holding the distributor in place clean around the base of the distributor at the intake so you can make some scribe marks. I put some masking tape on the intake plenum and used a straight edge and marked the orientation of the rotor with a sharpie. This way I could get it installed back in the same orientation. Remove the bolt and clamp holding the distributor in place being careful not to bump the distributor. Scribe a mark on the intake manifold and distributor base (or use a sharpie) so you know exactly which way the body of the distributor is pointing. Now wiggle it to pop the o-ring seal loose and slowly pull the distributor out the top. Note the orientation of the rotor as it comes out since it will turn as you remove the distributor.

After you rebuild the distributor per the videos above slip the distributor back into the intake starting with the rotor facing how it was as you finally removed teh distributor. As you seat the distributor back into teh intake ensure the rotor orientation matches the sharpie marks on teh masking tape on the intake plenum. Now rotate the distributor body so the scribe marks line up and clamp it down. You should not need to reseet the timing because everything is exactly where it was before you started.

Hope this helps.

BTW - Be sure the dimple at the base of the distributor gear lines up with the keyed slot in the shaft where the rotor fits. Otherwise your timing will be 180 degrees off.

Good luck. It's an easy job.

Be careful removing the clip that holds the coil in place. I chipped the top of the shaft bushing when I removed the clip by prying it up. I believe the top of the bushing seals against the shaft assembly to keep oil out of the electrical side of the distributor, so the bushing needs to be smooth on the top. I noticed instructions for removing the clip were included with the coil, but it was too late for me.

One more must - ALWAYS replace the o-ring on the distributor. The oil right below it is at pressure, and a leaking o-ring will p oil out bad.

All of the info is presented here in a concise manner. In short just remember to mark the position of the distributor in relation to the block, the rotor in relation to the distributor housing and the gear on the shaft in relation to the shaft. You must also set the shaft end play with shims so that the up down movement is held to a minimum. If everything is marked and installed correctly retiming will still be necessary but the engine should start easily.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, ZZP Intercooler, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

One thing I have never seen mentioned is that if your pickup coil is falling apart then your distributor itself may be just as worn out and ready for replacement.

That is what I experienced when I replaced my pickup coil the car went from no start to running like crap. I thought I had the timing 180 degrees out it ran so bad. It turns out the distributor magnets themselves wore out and the car was running on about 3 cylinders. A new dizzy and it purred like a kitten.

Also, the gear on the bottom of the distributor has an odd # of teeth, so it only goes on one way. Pay attention and/or mark it so you can get it back on right.

The distributor gear can only go on two ways since it is secured by a roll pin. It has a shallow hole drilled in it that aligns with the notch in the distributor shaft where the rotor sits. Be sure they are in alignment or you'll be out of phase by 180 degrees.