These are pictures of an intercooler that was just installed . It is a ZZ Performance short stack intercooler that is 1" thick. It is easier to install than the standard 2" tall model as deck lid clearance is no issue. The installation requires mounting an electric water pump, front heat exchanger and the intercooler hoses that run the length of the car. Here are the pics with my comments:

First you fabricate and mount two brackets to hold the heat exchanger in place. Here we are using a 3 1/2 deep 26" wide unit made by Frozen Boost. Its about the largest Heat exchanger that you can fit under the facia. The mounts are 1" w x 1/4" steel and they are welded in place. The coolant exit will be from the top to prevent cavitation. The HE will be in a direct air stream and I don't believe that fans will be needed.


Then you mount the pump on the side where coolant exits the heat exchanger core. This is a FloJet pump that is used for RV water supply applications. It is mounted in the driver side wheel well. Notice that the horn had to be moved but it was a good opportunity to replace the low sounding GM unit with a Fiamm horn.


After running hoses to the engine compartment its time to remove the supercharger and install the IC core. Its a tricky process but if you do the cross torque tightening in sequence you can get a good seal with no binding of the supercharger. This is a test fit


And here is how the gasket sits in place. We are using Gorlock gaskets for a tight seal


Now its time to mount the supercharger over the IC . Torque on the mounting bolts is 18ft lbs and it MUST be done in small steps


Here's how the IC looks under the supercharger


Then its a simple matter of reinstalling the fuel rail, plugging the TPS, MAF, MAP/ IAT sensors back in, hooking up the hoses, wiring the pump, re-aranging the harness etc. ZZ recommends a 33% dexcool/distilled water mixture. I'll get some additional pics of the finished install up this week.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 08-13-2011).]

How is your deck lid fitting with the Supercharger a inch higher?

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86 Fiero 2M4 Silver, and 86 GT

quote Originally posted by jwrape: How is your deck lid fitting with the Supercharger a inch higher?

I measured up carefully before hand. It will definitely clear the deck lid but the torsion springs will need to be removed. Will have an assistant to help get this done on Monday and will post results but others have done the SSIC install and have not had clearance issues.
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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 08-13-2011).]

Just to update the post. Its been a few weeks now since the install was finished and everything is tested and working well. The deck torsion springs/rods definitely need to be removed but when they are, the deck lid will clear the short stack intercooler without any modifcations on the GT or Notchback.. I have 1/4" clearance on the air filter side and about an inch of clearance on the supercharger pulley side. The correct belt to use w a 3.4" pulley and the SSIC is a Goodyear Gatorback 4060675.
Those torsion rod springs can be difficult and dangerous to remove. I removed them single handedly by attaching a ratcheting tie down to the bottom of the springs in the bracket then attaching the tie down strap to a 1 ton puller that was hung from a cherry picker. The cherry picker was held stationary using a tow strap that anchored to my truck frame. A few clicks of the puller and the holding pins were able to be easily pulled out. Then I reversed the action of the puller and released the tension. After that they were easy to remove but you will need a hollow torx bit to get the pivot screws out on the hinge.
The SSIC does make a noticable difference in power but supercharger whine is a bit more noticable. The occasional couple of degrees of KR's are gone. The scans now read 0 KR"S no matter how hard I push it.
The whole setup is not inexpensive but if you add a smaller pulley for higher boost (especially on the series III engines) it becomes a must. On this one, parts alone came in at about $975...Intercooler, Frozen Boost FMHE, FloJet water pump, SC belt, 1/2" hoses, reservoir, 1" injector spacers, hose clamps , reducing hose couplers, hose hangars, roll 14 ga wire, pump relay and steel stock for the fabrication of the mounting brackets for the FMHE.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, ZZP Intercooler, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

Dennis,

Have to get your Series III to the track or on the dyno. With the cooler air you should be making a ton of power.

I cant see myself dropping a grand for the intercooler, but then I never thought I would be dropping $500 for a clutch.

There is a guy over at gtp forum that is making these for way less and they are made from hard plastic.I will try and find the link.Thanks

quote Originally posted by RotrexFiero: Dennis, Have to get your Series III to the track or on the dyno. With the cooler air you should be making a ton of power. I cant see myself dropping a grand for the intercooler, but then I never thought I would be dropping $500 for a clutch.

You can get a SS IC for as cheap as $150 used and a full size for as cheap as $300 used....The rest of the needed parts can be found for cheap...Going IC in not that expensive....

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:

'Snip' The coolant exit will be from the top to prevent cavitation. 'Snip


Then you mount the pump on the side where coolant exits the heat exchanger core. .


Could you give a bit more detail as to the plumbing layout?

At first read, it would seem that feeding the pump from the top of the heat exchanger would increase the chances of the pump running dry if the system was low on fluid. Feeding the pump from the bottom of the heat exchanger would ensure a good pump feed supply, similar to the way the radiator/water pump layout is on an automobile.

Nice work, good looking install.

Joe

I would jump on a SS IC for $150. Please point them out to me!!!

I dont know about the hard plastic IC. I would need some education and some convincing that it would not crack.