Need to remove the torsion rods springs on my GT to provide clearance for the intercooler. The engine is in the car. I will probably try to hold them with a vice grip and cut them from the deck lid hinges but I am not sure that this is a safe method. Does anyone have an easy and safe method to remove those springs? If so please I would aprreciate if you would share it.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

See the post below.....it's quite a bit better than what I posted...

[This message has been edited by Firefox (edited 08-12-2011).]

Dennis,
This is on PaulV's website

Click here for Tech Tips, Features, Misc, then go down to "Torque rod replacement"

[This message has been edited by What about Bob (edited 08-12-2011).]

//www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/111303.html
Use a tie down strap to pull the bottom loop toward the rear of the car.

Remove pin.

Release strap.
Remove torsion rod.
It's a LOT easier than you think.

I never had any residual tension on the torque rods after doing this (unlike the previously posted link to PaulV's site) unless the weight of the deck lid was still resting on the torsion rods.
Support the deck lid with a broom handle or 2X4. No need to remove the deck lid.

[This message has been edited by 2002z28ssconv (edited 08-12-2011).]

I was very careful when removing my lid made sure nothing was going to break the rear window until the socket itself came flying off and smashed my rear window so watch everything including your tools. Good thing now though is i have a light weight window but i dont wish the repair on anyone.

quote Originally posted by Australian: I was very careful when removing my lid made sure nothing was going to break the rear window until the socket itself came flying off and smashed my rear window so watch everything including your tools. Good thing now though is i have a light weight window but i dont wish the repair on anyone.

I've removed a few of these rods in compartments with engines out by just cutting them about 7/8 of the way through in the center and then they will slowly unravel and twist Todays task requires getting them removed with a 3800 in the engine compartment. Using the techniques above will probably work and taping wood over the window sounds like a good idea. Your story is not the first that I've heard where someone smashed the rear window..
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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 08-14-2011).]

I just did one with the engine out. DON'T take the little screws out of the decklid first... The shot out so fast...

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-Brian

My 87 GT Poly Suspension Upgrade (all pics) thread
Removing the roof panel

quote Originally posted by MulletproofMonk: I just did one with the engine out. DON'T take the little screws out of the decklid first... The shot out so fast...

VERY loud bang, sparks, flying screws ... time for new undepants. That was my experience anyhow.

The "safe" way I eventually learned to do it was use small square pieces of wood, we used the leg off of a small chair, and put it inbetween the torsion bar and the hinge. with the decklid partially closed enough to move the bar down a bit. Then raise up the deck lid and take the screw out and put a breaker bar pipe on it so you can safely control how slow it moves back. Do the same procedure on the other side, and then remove the decklid. This process was done with a helper, so I don't know how well it will work by yourself.

[This message has been edited by NullHead (edited 08-14-2011).]

quote Originally posted by NullHead: VERY loud bang, sparks, flying screws ... time for new undepants. That was my experience anyhow. The "safe" way I eventually learned to do it was use small square pieces of wood, we used the leg off of a small chair, and put it inbetween the torsion bar and the hinge. with the decklid partially closed enough to move the bar down a bit. Then raise up the deck lid and take the screw out and put a breaker bar pipe on it so you can safely control how slow it moves back. Do the same procedure on the other side, and then remove the decklid. This process was done with a helper, so I don't know how well it will work by yourself.

Why would anyone CUT a perfectly good part just to get it off? That baffles me, but I encourage you to do so with this car and any other Fiero you can get your hands on. My grandchildren will have a nice trosion bar nest egg when they find it in my barn after I'm gone :-)

A good reason to read the manuals first.
//www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/102310.html

ONLY 4 bolts hold the decklid, the other 2 bolts attach to the torque rods.
When removing those 2 bolts, the rear window needs to be protected with plywood.

From the Body Section of the Service Manual.






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My World of Wheels Winners (Click on links below)

3.4L Supercharged 87 GT and Super Duty 4 Indy #163

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 08-15-2011).]

I was hesitant myself to attack the torque rods until I simply followed the step-by-step procedure in the Shop Manual. I've now taken apart 5 sets of them with no problem at all.