Since I bought this car back in 2002 the emergency brake mechanism on the driver side has not fully retracted. If you set the brake and then release it the lever on the caliper always hangs at about a 1/4" from the stop. I can reach up and manually pull it to fully released, but it won't do it on its own. I replaced all of the cables during the engine swap and put a rebuilt caliper on that side (using the same springs) and it made no difference.

I asked my brake guy to look at it and he said it was adjusted correctly and there was no binding anywhere he could detect. His assessment was the same as I have been thinking, the return spring just doesn't have enough "oomph" to overcome the drag in the system. He suggested finding some Cadillac Seville return springs (which he remembers being heavier than the Fiero's). I couldn't see a downside to trying it. What do you think?

Neil

[This message has been edited by sspeedstreet (edited 07-14-2011).]

Sounds to me like you need to rebuild those puppies. 20 years of dirty fluid and gunk can sludge up in there.

OR you need to find which cable "may" be binding. moisture and dirt make rust inside those cables.
either way you need some brake work.

Heavier duty return springs aren't going to hurt anything, so I'd go that route given that you've already checked the cables.

Thanks, Bloozberry. Now I just need to find some springs.

quote Originally posted by sspeedstreet: Thanks, Bloozberry. Now I just need to find some springs.

yeah, find me some too.

I won't be able to call them til tomorrow, but this is a list of springs I found that fit the Fiero spring dimensions. By calculation the Fiero spring should be 25.5 lb/in, so there's a 27, 32, 51(out of stock), 58, 60 and 61 lb/in offered from this company. I guess of this lot I'd opt for the 51 lb/in in part because 32 doesn't sound like much of an increase and also because it's stainless steel. I need to get an actual rate on the stock spring.

Spring Type: Compression Unit of Measure: Standard (in)
Stock No. OD ID Free Length Rate Sug Max Def Wire Diameter Total Coils Material Ends Finish

72705S 1.225 0.955 4.500 27.000 2.000 0.135 13.400 SST C&G N

72705 1.225 0.955 4.500 32.000 2.700 0.135 13.400 MW C&G N (Quoted $17.00 ea plus shipping)

72727S 1.225 0.913 4.500 51.000 1.600 0.156 13.600 SST C&G N

72738S 1.225 0.901 4.500 58.000 1.600 0.162 14.000 SST C&G N

72727 1.225 0.913 4.500 60.000 2.100 0.156 13.600 MW C&G N

12068 1.125 0.823 4.500 67.000 1.300 0.151 14.000 SPR C&G Z

SPR= Spring Steel
MW= Music Wire
SST= Stainless Steel
N= None
Z= Zinc
C&G= Closed & Ground

[This message has been edited by sspeedstreet (edited 07-15-2011).]

hey make sure to repost if those springs work and fit well. i have the exact same problem the rear passanger side isnt fully releasing.

likely has bad wheel cable(s).

Try stronger spring but need new wheel cables and maybe main cables.
If oil has gotten to rubber seal around screw then seal can swell causing screw and level to bind...
If rust cause binding to screw/level....

Cables should be easy to slid.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

quote Originally posted by theogre: likely has bad wheel cable(s). Try stronger spring but need new wheel cables and maybe main cables. If oil has gotten to rubber seal around screw then seal can swell causing screw and level to bind... If rust cause binding to screw/level.... Cables should be easy to slid.

As stated at the top, all new cables and no binding. The bellcrank can be continued to the stop pretty easily by hand.

Sorry,,,

On vacation.... miss new cables

Try springs but check calipers again too... Dead/dying pistons or sticking screws can act up intermittently.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

Thanks, Ogre. I'll check that out.

Hey Neil,

Blooz pointed me toward this thread as I am having a similar problem: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/F...117550.html#lastpost

Please let me know if you plan on ordering springs and if they/you would do a set to the UK. There must be springs here but unable to find lovely comparison charts like you have.

Cheers
PK

I should have a lb/in on the stock springs later today. I really want to fix this problem; I don't use my E-brake because the dinger won't stop until I manually release the lever at the caliper. You and I have the exact same problem.

OK, so I checked a return spring today using a drill press and two different bathroom scales. At one inch I got 18 pounds on one scale and 21 pounds on the other. I guess that makes the 32 lb/in a good choice.

The supplier has a $40.00 minimum and they're $17.00 each plus shipping, so I guess I'm in for two sets. If it works out I'll have a set for sale.

Neil,

If you have a set for sale and don't mind posting to UK I would like them please.

EDIT: Quite happy to pay for a set prior to testing and take my chances.

Cheers
PK

[This message has been edited by PK (edited 07-18-2011).]

FYI, The Fiero Store sells replacement 88 e-brake return springs.
I replaced them last time I did the rear brakes on my Formula. The old springs were about 1-1.5" shorter than the new ones from fatigue.

Success! I had them installed today and now the bellcrank on the calipers fully return to within 1/8" of the stop. Also, the warning chime stops every time the brake is released.

Item #72705
32.000 lb/in (Stock seems to be about 20 lb/in)
$17.50 each plus shipping, minimum sale is $40.00.

Century Spring Corp.
222 East 16th Street,
Los Angeles, CA 90015
(800) 237-5225
www.centuryspring.com

I have had success with these too. Neil was kind enough to go out of his way and send me a set, thanks so much for that Neil, it is greatly appreciated.

Today I finally got a chance to dismantle everything. Caliper arms were both ok and equally resistant. Cables were running freely but cleaned anyway. New springs installed and now the driver side arm returns fully to its stop, no brake bind or brake light when handbrake released.

Cheers
PK

It's a simple fix. I think the original springs were enough, barely, when the these cars were new. But after 25 years there's enough drag in the system to keep them from retracting fully.