Today I took my seat out because it doesn't slide. (fun job getting the last one on the back right) Anyway, there is a spring that stretches the length of the seat, should there be one on both sides? Here's a picture. Otherwise I don't know why it doesn't slide.
The bumper on the car was backed into, and it broke/cracked. What should I do to fix it? It will sit back in place, but I want to get the bumper painted. Also, I need to remove the paint from the front bumper, front hood, and one of the fenders, what should I use for this? Thanks!
[This message has been edited by shank0668 (edited 06-08-2011).]
http://gafieroclub.org/bbs/index.php?topic=469.0 < body & paint material info there. You have to remove the rocker cover (a pain - you have to drill the rivets) to remove the fender piece. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
The ground effect part on the front fender I think has one or 2 nuts on the back side. You have to loosen the bottom of the fender and pull it out to get inside. (I may be incorrect, its been a dozen years since I removed one.)
safest and cheapest way to take the paint off the bumper and hood IF you have a DA sander, is to sand all the flat part you can with 80-100 grit paper (holding sander FLAT), then finish other areas by hand. If you dont have a sander, a lot of elbow grease, time and sandpaper by hand. After your done, go back over it with 180 grit and primer it.
[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 06-09-2011).]
I do not have a da sander. Can I use a stripper on the hood? Also, I plan to try painting it, will a 6 gal, compressor be enough to do the hood, bumper, and fender, probably individually?
I do not have a da sander. Can I use a stripper on the hood? Also, I plan to try painting it, will a 6 gal, compressor be enough to do the hood, bumper, and fender, probably individually?
Did you check the link I posted above? As for a compressor, the CFM is more important than the tank, but I don't think that small compressor will work. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
Stripper usually takes off one layer at a time. Do a small area (couple suqare ft.) at a time. Once you get down to the factory primer or basecoat, stop using stripper & start the sanding process. Follow directions on the stripper (ventilated area, how to wash it off, etc.). I doubt very seriously that compressor will be enough. If you're only painting one panel at a time, you may get away with it if you hook up more tanks for reserve air (T in an air tank for tires for example - but make sure any tanks you use will handle the pressure). You can adjust most air compressors to shut off at a given pressure. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
should there be one on both sides? No just the one
The bumper on the car was backed into, and it broke/cracked. What should I do to fix it? It will sit back in place, but I want to get the bumper painted. Buy some fiberglass mating and some resin and hardener along with sandpapers primer and paint.
I need to remove the paint from the front bumper, front hood, and one of the fenders, what should I use for this? Thanks! Hand sanding and circular palm sander off a compressor is best but electric can do it.
The bumper on the car was backed into, and it broke/cracked. What should I do to fix it? It will sit back in place, but I want to get the bumper painted. Buy some fiberglass mating and some resin and hardener along with sandpapers primer and paint.
More bad advice (this forum is full of it). You should always use a product designed for the material that you're repairing: the bumpers are RIM. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
My advice, take it or leave it, is based on 45 years of doing body and paint work for a living. DONT use stripper of any kind...even if it says something like safe for plastics, rubber, etc. If it gets into any fibers or pinholes, it will be there forever and screw up any new paint you put over it. Stripper is great on metal cars and even then great care has to be taken to remove every miniscule speck of it before you primer it.
My advice, take it or leave it, is based on 45 years of doing body and paint work for a living. DONT use stripper of any kind...even if it says something like safe for plastics, rubber, etc. If it gets into any fibers or pinholes, it will be there forever and screw up any new paint you put over it. Stripper is great on metal cars and even then great care has to be taken to remove every miniscule speck of it before you primer it.
I use it all the time, on hoods & other Fiero parts that have more than the factory paint on them (it's not needed on factory paint). I've never had a problem. IF you let it SOAK into the bare fiberglass, it will be a real pain to repair. I had to SWEAT it out of a 'Vette hood (a very expensive 427 hood for a mid-sixties 'Vette) one time that other painters couldn't get paint to not bubble up. After stripping off the paint, I covered it with black plastic & set it out in the sun, washing it off with lacquer thinner periodically. Paint worked just fine after that. Moral of the story is don't let it soak into BARE fiberglass - it can ruin the part. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
I use it all the time, on hoods & other Fiero parts that have more than the factory paint on them (it's not needed on factory paint). I've never had a problem. IF you let it SOAK into the bare fiberglass, it will be a real pain to repair. I had to SWEAT it out of a 'Vette hood (a very expensive 427 hood for a mid-sixties 'Vette) one time that other painters couldn't get paint to not bubble up. After stripping off the paint, I covered it with black plastic & set it out in the sun, washing it off with lacquer thinner periodically. Paint worked just fine after that. Moral of the story is don't let it soak into BARE fiberglass - it can ruin the part. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
The hood has a layer of paint, primer, then atleast another layer of paint under it
Use the stripper to take off at least the top layer of paint & the primer under it. Once you do that, sand on it (using 180 wet to start with, since you don't have a DA) & see how many layers are left. Always use a sponge pad or paint paddle when sanding, to keep from getting finger ridges in the surface. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
Why take the risk to save a few minutes of sanding. Like I said, you can take it or not, just dont whine later when it screws up and you have to buy a new hood.
Why take the risk to save a few minutes of sanding. Like I said, you can take it or not, just dont whine later when it screws up and you have to buy a new hood.
You use stripper to save HOURS & HOURS of sanding when the paint is either real thick or is cheap enamel or lacquer that just gums up sandpaper. There's also this that I wrote: http://gafieroclub.org/strip_fiero.shtml . At the time I wrote it I said to not use the aircraft stripper on the plastic panels, but it's safe to do so if you're careful & they have a lot of paint buildup. But never use it on the rubber bumpers. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
I can hand sand all the old paint off in just a few hours and have a guarantee nothing will screw up (unless it had 5 paint jobs). DA will cut that at least in 1/2. Lisa sat here for 2 hours and completely sanded (by hand) her GTs front bumper down to original bare urathane with 2 paint jobs on it. She had barely any experience...I just handed her the sandpaper, showed her how to fold it and said go at it. She did it with #80 and then #180, then I primered it. When I did my Coronet, it was painted all over a different color with Earl Sheib black enamel. Took me the better part of a day to strip the whole car from end to end with a DA and #80. Coronet is as big as 2 Fieros. I didnt even mess with using stripper on it because I didnt want the mess to clean up. It also showed me all the little dings I needed to fix.
I can hand sand all the old paint off in just a few hours and have a guarantee nothing will screw up (unless it had 5 paint jobs). DA will cut that at least in 1/2. Lisa sat here for 2 hours and completely sanded (by hand) her GTs front bumper down to original bare urathane with 2 paint jobs on it. She had barely any experience...I just handed her the sandpaper, showed her how to fold it and said go at it. She did it with #80 and then #180, then I primered it. When I did my Coronet, it was painted all over a different color with Earl Sheib black enamel. Took me the better part of a day to strip the whole car from end to end with a DA and #80. Coronet is as big as 2 Fieros. I didnt even mess with using stripper on it because I didnt want the mess to clean up. It also showed me all the little dings I needed to fix.
Right; & you were lucky that it was a type of paint that didn't gum up the paper. Do you even READ my posts? The OP doesn't have a DA. It might take him a week to hand sand off all the paint on his car. Depends on how thick the paint is & what type it is. You never know until you start. Stripper is an A.L.T.E.R.N.A.T.I.V.E (I said that slowly so you can get it) to sanding when sanding is going to take FAR TOO MUCH TIME. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
Id spend a full day sanding all the paint off by hand before Id put stripper near it. Id rather put a grinder disc to it and a coat of icing on the whole thing..Its not that easy to find a good condition used hood when it screws up. I like stripper for right thing. I often have used stripper on a hood caked with several paint jobs....just on a metal one. I used to refurbish semi tractors. I sprayed stripper on the whole aluminum cab from roof down for my first step of every one. Also strlipping is the only way to refinish aircraft. FAA REQUIRES it or aircraft has to have a new weight and balance check and its useful payload reduced by the weight of the added paint. I will NEVER put stripper on any urathane, fiberglass or plastic part for any reason. If I had an employee that did, hed be fired on the spot because any issues coming out of it comes out of my pocket. I have taken old hard to get off paint off by using scotchbrites and a bucket of lacquer thinner and rubber gloves before. If it gums up sandpaper, thinner will soften it. But again the best and safest way is to hand sand it off if you dont have a DA. I ll s a y t h i s r e a l l y s l o w so t h a t D r i v e r h a s t i m e f o r i t t o s i n k i n h i s t h i c k h e a d.
Your in Ohio. Drop it off to me and Ill sand it down for you to OEM paint for the cost of the sandpaper. Ive always got a few hours of spare time. Your welcome to stay and watch or just hang around if you want. Never seen one I couldnt sand that took more than a few hours.
[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 06-18-2011).]
Id spend a full day sanding all the paint off by hand before Id put stripper near it. Id rather put a grinder disc to it and a coat of icing on the whole thing..Its not that easy to find a good condition used hood when it screws up. I like stripper for right thing. I often have used stripper on a hood caked with several paint jobs....just on a metal one. I used to refurbish semi tractors. I sprayed stripper on the whole aluminum cab from roof down for my first step of every one. Also strlipping is the only way to refinish aircraft. FAA REQUIRES it or aircraft has to have a new weight and balance check and its useful payload reduced by the weight of the added paint. I will NEVER put stripper on any urathane, fiberglass or plastic part for any reason. If I had an employee that did, hed be fired on the spot because any issues coming out of it comes out of my pocket. I have taken old hard to get off paint off by using scotchbrites and a bucket of lacquer thinner and rubber gloves before. If it gums up sandpaper, thinner will soften it. But again the best and safest way is to hand sand it off if you dont have a DA. I ll s a y t h i s r e a l l y s l o w so t h a t D r i v e r h a s t i m e f o r i t t o s i n k i n h i s t h i c k h e a d.
Your in Ohio. Drop it off to me and Ill sand it down for you to OEM paint for the cost of the sandpaper. Ive always got a few hours of spare time. Your welcome to stay and watch or just hang around if you want. Never seen one I couldnt sand that took more than a few hours.
You still don't get it do you? I would be GLAD to spend a FULL DAY sanding a car to avoid stripper. But you live a charmed life. I've painted a whole BUNCH of cars that took 3 or 4 days to sand off the paint with a DA or 9" buffer (but you can't use that on fiberglass), & I've painted a whole bunch of cars that there was NO WAY sandpaper would take off the paint AT ALL - or would take a week or more to strip it. Washing off your lacquer with lacquer thinner is the same as chemical stripping, but much messier. I'll say it again: Stripper is an A.L.T.E.R.N.A.T.I.V.E to sanding when sanding is going to take FAR TOO MUCH TIME. For the OP: Sorry I don't remember definitively if you can put the ground effects on the fender then mount the fender, but I think the ground effect doesn't cover the bottom fender mount & if so you can. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
Washing off your lacquer with lacquer thinner is the same as chemical stripping, but much messier
actually, no its not the same. It is chemicaly stripping it, but unlike stripper, it dont leave a residue that attacks the plastic/fiberglass and new paint. When it dries its totally inactive....just like dry paint. Stripper will seep thru new finish for months afterward.
and you have to buy a new hood.
You use stripper to save HOURS & HOURS of sanding when the paint is either real thick or is cheap enamel or lacquer that just gums up sandpaper.
I didnt even mess with using stripper on it because I didnt want the mess to clean up. It also showed me all the little dings I needed to fix.
