So my car died driving on the highway. Thought I heard a funny rattle lost a bit of power, then the engine just quit.

Got it towed home and took a look. Turns over fine. Had a friend look in the crank case while trying to start and the lifters are moving.
Figured it might be the ICM as I had this issue once before and that was the problem.

Car still doesn't fire with new ICM. Tach is not moving when I turn it over so I don't think I'm getting spark. Will pull the cable and test for spark from the coil once I find a second set of hands.

Question is what else should I check and is it possible I put the cap and rotor back on wrong. It's an 84 and from what I can tell they only go on one way. The rotor definitely is in the same position as when I removed it. Distributor seemed to only go on one way with spring loaded clips. How do you check if the cap and rotor need replacing?

[This message has been edited by amikin (edited 06-01-2011).]

If the tach has stopped working you have a problem with the primary side of the ignition.

Do the following tests on the pick up coil and the ignition coil. In addition also check for +12v on the pink wire of the coil - with the key on.

Is your fuel pump working? Can you hear it whirring (priming) with the key turned but the engine not started yet?

-Michael

I just went through the dreaded "Ignition Module" failure.

Stopped for fuel, went to start it, and it spun over, but no fire.

New module, cap, rotor, plug wires, and then pickup coil.

Runs like new now.

quote Originally posted by Marko: I just went through the dreaded "Ignition Module" failure. Stopped for fuel, went to start it, and it spun over, but no fire. New module, cap, rotor, plug wires, and then pickup coil. Runs like new now.

a common 2.8 problem

So would I be correct in assuming the distributor cap only goes on one way?
I've read that you adjust the timing by rotating the distributor but can't see how that's possible with the way it's attached.

I'll get a hold of a meter and test the coil tonight.

Thanks for the suggestions. This is my daily driver to work so need to get it back on the road quick. My wife needs our other car to chauffeur our kids around.

quote Originally posted by amikin: So would I be correct in assuming the distributor cap only goes on one way? I've read that you adjust the timing by rotating the distributor but can't see how that's possible with the way it's attached.

Yes the cap fits one way. To adjust timing with the distributor, you would loosen the hold-down bolt/brackent, and turn the entire distributor, not the cap.

Before you start playing around with the distributor make sure u mark the base. Otherwise you will have to pull the #1 plug and turn the balancer by hand to find TDC on the compression stroke and then have to reset base timing. Trust me... I know from experience lol. Also, when checking timing make sure you have the connector pins jumped in the center console.

Have you checked the fuse box to make sure it isnt a blown ignition switch?

Also, if tach isnt moving it could be a bad tach filter? Someone please coorect me if I am wrong but I believe you can just unplug it for testing purposes and this can sometimes help getting the car to start.

[This message has been edited by z00l4nd3r (edited 06-01-2011).]

Have you done the pick-up coil and ignition coil tests yet?
Do those first before you start playing with the timing.

Haven't been able to get out to the car yet to test.

Shouldn't have to adjust the timing as it was fine before and all I did was remove the cap and rotor so the distributor should be in the same position.

Also forgot to mention that I tried cranking it with the tach filter unplugged, made no difference.

Other than problems with the ignition coil, distributor/cap/rotor is there anything else that would cause no spark?

What's the easiest way to confirm if it's getting fuel? Take off the filter cover and look to see it it's spraying in the chamber? The fuel pump does sound like it's working, but I suppose the fuel filter could be due for a change.

Those are the primary things that will do it.

You do need to do the tests of the coils with the coils unplugged from the harness. They don't need to be removed from the engine however. Specifically you don't need to remove the distributor or it's shaft to do the TEST of the pick up coil.

However if the pick up coil ends up being bad you need to pull the distributor and remove the shaft from it to replace the pick up coil.

-----

How to replace the pick up coil IF IT TESTS BAD

Removing the distributor


Replacing the pick up coil




Replacing the distributor



Timing the engine after replacing the distributor into the block

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 06-02-2011).]

So I think my problem might be more than just ignition. Apparently the guy I had looking in the crank case for the litters to move was wrong. I checked it myself and they do not move when cranking.

Would that be a broken timing gear?

Also took the filter cover off while cranking and there is no fuel spraying. No spark off the ignition coil either.

What would be my next step other than towing it to a mechanic?

well....... yeah timing gear stripped... i was told there is a way to do the fiber gear while it is still in the car using a steering wheel puller and drilling/tapping some holes...
hope everything goes well with ya. good luck


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1985 gt notchie auto (pic)| 3800 SFI N/A coming soon
1986 se notchie standard 4spd | 5.3 vortec soon

[This message has been edited by BlackGT Codde (edited 06-02-2011).]

So couple more questions. I have a friend that's a mechanic and willing to look at it but is wondering if it's a fibre gear. This is an 84 2.5L

Also was wondering if it could be the cam shaft that may have broke.

If he can't do it, is this a fairly costly repair to do? From what he can figure, it looks like he'd have to drop the cradle to get at it? I just need to weigh the cost of repair and decide if it's worth it in the long run.

Oh, and thanks for all the help!