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GT reat quarter windows replacement. by timgray
Started on: 04-16-2011 09:55 PM
Replies: 11
Last post by: ace5514 on 04-23-2011 12:26 AM
timgray
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Report this Post04-16-2011 09:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for timgrayClick Here to visit timgray's HomePageSend a Private Message to timgrayDirect Link to This Post
I am getting ready to replace the quarter windows, the local body shop said any tape will work and gave me 3M 06384

This stuff looks thin. It's 1/2 inch wide but is only .045 inch thick. Is this right? I though the quarter windows used really thick foam tape.

Well the stuff is too thin but doubled up it works nicely. I have a nice step by step that works very well and is holding on tight.

I needed a total of 6 yards of the 3M 06384 foam tape, you will lay down the tape twice. I used what I had here for my top layer as you will see in the photos.

Removal of the old windows : if you don't care about busting the quarter windows on the car, go ahead and get physical, Mine did not stick anymore by the bottom of the rear vents so I could get under there and start pulling. WEAR GLOVES the places where it will crack are sharp and will cut you as you bust the window. the old tape is gooey in the black area where it has not had to endure the heat from the engine bay and rain and gunk getting in behind it. If you want to try and save the old windows, it's harder to do, you need fish-line and carefully thread it through and use the fish-line to cut the old foam tape. DO NOT FLEX the window very much. It's 25 years old it will break easily, a lot easier than you think it will. take your time. fish-line does not damage your paint or the old window, piano wire or a guitar string does. also use a heat gun and carefully heat the edges of the window and the whole black area up. you want it to be about 100+ degrees but not much more. you need to soften up the tape a bit.



After the windows are out you need to clean up the tape surfaces, goo gone works if you have time, I used lacquer thinner and a razor blade. I also taped up the areas around it to avoid paint damage, take the time to lay down tape, it's easier than filling a paint scratch. clean all the surfaces as much as possible, some old tape goo is fine as it's the same material as what you are putting on, a body shop is not going to spend 6 hours making it perfectly clean. I then took a heat gun and warmed up the taping surfaces to about 100 degrees. I used a infrared thermometer, if it feels like it has been in the sun all day to the hand, that's a good place to stop. I then applied the first layer of the tape, used a roller to make sure it was down strong, peeled off the release liner and then applied a second layer. This is because I could not get the proper tape here, it is not a common 3m tape. you need to build up the thickness and this acrylic adhesive loves to stick. It also cures with time and heat, so heat is important.



See those extra strips in the center. My stock windows had the tape but the release liner was never pulled. add some here, more is safer.


After the second layer is down, time to wipe the windows taping edges with a bit of alcohol AFTER you go and wash your hands. DO NOT use paint thinner here. The best thing to use is the 3m acrylic tape adhesion promoter, but at $18.90 a can I skipped it. if you are paranoid, buy it and use it. I hear it makes the tape stick really quickly. after the tape is in place I heated all of it once again with the heat gun lightly until I could feel that it all was warm then rolled it all again. Time to install the window. I removed the liner on the end first, and the center ones and the first 3 inches of the three long strips, taping them up and on the car so I can get to them after I install the window. Carefully line up the window and get it lightly in place. DO NOT PUSH HARD! you want it barely stuck to make sure it's right. reposition until you get it right and then slowly pull all the liners out and press down on the window all around where the tape is. I then grab the heat gun and heat the new window in all the taped areas until it's good and warm for at least 5 minutes to make sure the window is heated all the way through, I then press around all the taped spots. keep pressing around every side for a few minutes. I suggest letting the car sit in the sun for at least a day to make the windows stay hot/warm to get the adhesive to cure faster.



That's it! now I need to tint the side windows!


the thing I learned last night by looking up the 3m tape is all the current stuff is heat cured. Not a problem in the summer, but a day like today where it's 42 degrees out, you either need to heat gun it a lot or let it sit in the shop for 12+ hours with the temperature at 70+ degrees. Right now mine is sitting outside in the sun. As mine is a garage queen it can sit for a few days and slowly cure in the garage. If yours is a daily driver you MUST get that tape warm and the surfaces warm and keep them warm for a while. It will not adhere strongly if it does not have the heat used.


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[This message has been edited by timgray (edited 04-17-2011).]

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JimmyS
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Report this Post04-16-2011 10:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JimmySClick Here to visit JimmyS's HomePageSend a Private Message to JimmySDirect Link to This Post
Dont let them use that thin tape. IT WILL NOT WORK! Your windows will blow off in short order. Contact Doug Kinney at www.fierowarehouse.com . He sells the correct tape for the windows.

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timgray
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Report this Post04-17-2011 02:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for timgrayClick Here to visit timgray's HomePageSend a Private Message to timgrayDirect Link to This Post
Updated to show my steps and writeup. I did use the thin 3m Acrylic tape but followed it's curing procedure. I could not reschedule the shop time to do this after ordering a different tape.
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JimmyS
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Report this Post04-19-2011 06:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JimmySClick Here to visit JimmyS's HomePageSend a Private Message to JimmySDirect Link to This Post
I just read through your process. I hope it works but if they blow off, i'm gonna say "I told you so".
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Report this Post04-19-2011 09:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for posting this timgray. I have a friend who wants me to replace his quarter windows now that he's bought some from TFS. I read the instructions in the service manual but it's always better to have great pictures to refer to instead of vague line drawings. Based on your suggestion that the tape needs heat to cure, I think I'll get him to wait until things warm up a little more up here in the Great White North. Thanks! (I'd give you a "+" but I gave you one long ago).
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Fieroseverywhere
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Report this Post04-19-2011 09:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroseverywhereSend a Private Message to FieroseverywhereDirect Link to This Post
Same stuff I used. Prep and install temps are crutial. Mine has been on for almost 4 years of daily driving.
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Report this Post04-19-2011 10:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryDirect Link to This Post
Here's a couple more threads on this issue that I found with differing opinions about what works and what doesn't:

www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/112421.html

www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/102934.html
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timgray
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Report this Post04-20-2011 08:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for timgrayClick Here to visit timgray's HomePageSend a Private Message to timgrayDirect Link to This Post
The biggest problem is that most people don't read the microscopic print that comes with the tape. It talks about cure times and adhesive strenghts and how you will not get a strong bond if you do not heat it. I was lucky to have spotted something that looked important so I started searching about it and discovered that not heating the surfaces or the tape and allowing curing is the #1 cause of adhesion failure and parts to fly off.

We did a test on a couple of pieces of lexan in the shop and without heat we could separate the parts by hand. with heat they were bonded so strong we broke the lexan sheets.

Why 3m does not put this info in LARGE PRINT blows my mind.

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Larryh86GT
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Report this Post04-20-2011 09:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Larryh86GTSend a Private Message to Larryh86GTDirect Link to This Post
I think I'll wait til July or August to do mine. No rush, the replacement windows have been sitting in my dining room collecting dust for 3 years now anyways.
Good info on the tape.

Larry

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ace5514
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Report this Post04-20-2011 11:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ace5514Send a Private Message to ace5514Direct Link to This Post
nice post..now here is my question ...where di dyou get those windows and are they curved all the way to the back or are they flat at the back and only curved up front?
ok several questions..
al
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timgray
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Report this Post04-21-2011 07:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for timgrayClick Here to visit timgray's HomePageSend a Private Message to timgrayDirect Link to This Post
they are flatter at the back, and ebay was the source. Honestly unless you are doing a restrictive stock restoration competition or you have lots of extra cash, buying the perfect reproductions for $400.00 are not worth it. I nabbed mine for $120.00 and you cant tell they are flat unless you start looking at them closely the body lines bend them to the curve of the panel somewhat.
I believe they are khines windows. they look exactly like the fiero store ones.
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ace5514
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Report this Post04-23-2011 12:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ace5514Send a Private Message to ace5514Direct Link to This Post
thanks,
i must say they do look good.
al
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