Who makes a good OBD-2 code reader and what does Can mean in regards to a code reader?My mechanic says,be sure it reads the data.I have allso been considering buying just a OBD-2 cable and useing my laptop,but a laptop is a bit bulkey for the car.

[This message has been edited by James Bond 007 (edited 03-24-2011).]

Generally, code readers will not read data. They read and clear codes and thats it. Scan tools read data (also read & clear codes). Unfortunately, the good ones are expensive. Like $2000 and up. There are cheaper ones out there ($150) but they are pretty stripped down and they read data pretty slow which makes them less than desirable for diagnostic use. They work, just not that well when your trying to find a glitch that occurs intermittantly and the scan tool only updates the readout once every 3+ seconds. The glitch can come and go while the scanner is inbetween updates of data, so it doesn't catch the glitch.

What do you intend to use it for? Depending on what you want it for, there may be other options that would work better for you.

i bought one from walmart for 100$ and it works fine. i know it sounds stupid but its not rocket science and you dont need to pay several hundreds of dollars for one form napa or autozone.

edited to add:
mine reads and clears codes for gm ford and chrysler and it was just a hundo bucks.

[This message has been edited by Niterrorz (edited 03-24-2011).]

Your mechanic means don't just get a code reader,he needs to look at PIDS.
PIDS are parameter identifiers,in other words he can see the actual data stream.
A generic OBDII code reader with datastream/PID option can see things like 02 sensor voltages,map,maf,iat etc..
These can be used to diagnose condition's or faults.
They won't diagnose for you,they are simply a tool the same as a compression test,fuel pressure test etc..
A person trained in driveability or who otherwise knows from experience can diagnose a vehicle from just pids for most conditions-or at least a very close pinpoint.
I'm a drivability specialist at a dealership,and I have many tools for reading pids in all manner of vehicles.

Knowing what all you do with your vehicle and what you need it for and mainly your budget would help alot with helping you choose the right ones.
I've got several from $50 up to several thousand and all have their own uses.
Do you tune and need to datalog? would you like to diagnose other cars? are you mechanically minded enough to be able to chase electrical,abs etc.. and want that option?

*if you just want to read/clear codes just get a pocket reader for $50

[This message has been edited by DefEddie (edited 03-24-2011).]

I just got one of THESE for my birthday, and it's AWESOME!


It works on any OBD II computer I've tried it on.. so far a 05 tahoe, 03 taurus, 03 audi A4, 05 BMW X3, and a 07 cobalt.
You can input custom PID's to check, customize the layouts of displays, and check/reset faults. It shows pending faults too. App I use is Torque, think it cost me $5.


I posted about this a few days ago too.. definitely worth checking out if you have an android-based cell phone or pad.

------------------


Currently in the middle of my 88 + 3800NA swap

This is the one I use

$189 - Laptop version

http://www.auterraweb.com/dyforwiusb.html







It's ok

will these readers work for the fiero ecm?

The Fiero is not ODBII. So no it won't.

WinALDL will work on the Fiero ECM however. Buy a cable from Dodgerunner $25.00, run the free software and monitor your ECM on your laptop.

WinALDL
http://winaldl.joby.se/

ALDLview
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/073532.html

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 03-25-2011).]

I recently bought a snap on scantool just to do my fiero,lol.
Would rather have a laptop based program for logging pids though,might need to get winaldl.

This is for my other car,a 2000 GP and my fiero with an engine swaped (3800 SCII).The check engine light is on in the Grand Prix and Im going to try and fix it befor takeing it in and Thanks for all the sugestions,I'll probubley buy a $100 coder reader befor spending $$$ on a high end scanner.

You can borrow a reader from AutoZone.... Just a thought, if you want to save money.

quote Originally posted by jaskispyder: You can borrow a reader from AutoZone.... Just a thought, if you want to save money.

Thanks,I'll look into that,my Insurance is comeing up along with my Internet bill.
A basic guide
http://reviews.ebay.com/eba...idZ10000000004909670

More basic info for the newbies.
What does OBD mean?

For those who don't understand what OBD means
OBD stands for On-Board Diagnostics. OBD started in in the late eighties and then evolved into OBD-II in 1996. OBD 1 was designed purely to encourage auto manufactures to design reliable emission control systems. This was a huge failure as the emission reporting was not standardized. OBD 1.5 was a cross over to OBD-II that occurred during 1994-1995. Most vehicles in the transition came with an after catalytic converter oxygen sensor. The main function of this sensor was to make sure the catalytic converter was there and functioning properly. Additional revisions was the partial OBD-II code implemented into the OBD-I ECUs.

The big OBD-II change consists of a universal diagnostic connector, electrical signaling protocols, and the messaging format. This means that the car can query outputs from multiple sensors and log them onto the ECU. This becomes your most valuable tool for data logging and trouble shooting.

How do Check Engine Lights Work?

All current year vehicles are required to have a check engine light or a "MIL" - Malfunction Indicator Light. The light shows three different types of signals:

• Occasional flashes show momentary malfunctions.
• The light stays on if the problem is more serious, especially if it affects the emission control system.
• A constantly flashing light is a sign of a major problem that can cause a serious problem to your engine.

Another way of knowing that you car has a serious check engine light is simply the car's drivability. If the check engine light is on and the car is performance remains unscathed, then the trouble code is more then like not as critical. Sometimes you will get the feeling that your car is running on a few less cylinders. This is generally a sign of something more serious as now the car is running in "Safe Mode". Safe Mode is triggered when the ECU thinks your car is having a heart attack. It will run air fuel ratios really rich and pull tons of timing to help prevent any sort of detonation due to a malfunctioning sensor. These critical sensors can include air intake temperature, oxygen, and fuel management sensors.

Getting those Codes

There is no special guess work when it comes to pulling codes off your ECU. Most OBD-II codes are generic but some manufactures do carry some personalized codes. The brain in your car saves the code and the scanner simply sends it as a typical P or PH based OBD code that relays to the display.

[This message has been edited by James Bond 007 (edited 03-25-2011).]

If you just want to read and clear codes and want a stand alone tool, I really like my little mac tester. It's only $70 and has worked on everything I have ever plugged it into (GM, Ford, Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep, BMW, Honda, Toyota, Land Rover, Mercedes, Accura and many others). But it does not read data. It reads and clears codes only.
http://www.mactools.com/pro...0/p-318863-et50.aspx

Any OBDII code reader will read OBDII codes from any vehicle 1996 or newer,regardles of CAN or anything else.
OBDII is a standard,and the generic OBDII codes can be read from any vehicle.
However,OBDII is soley for monitoring emissions-there are many manufacturer specific codes that are not required in the OBDII standard.
A good code scanner can read manufacturer specific codes also,a better one will read trans codes,an even better one will read abs/chassis/network and body codes.

If you get one,spend a few dollars more to get one that has datastream capability.
Offhand I know actron and Equus make them for under or around $200.
If you don't understand the code structure and how they are defined then you will want more than simply the code.
If nothing else get something that reads the generic OBDII datastream,a quick glance will show you whether your rich/lean or have a sensor out of range etc..
If you just want to read the code,take it to autozone and let them do it for free.

C--control
A-- area
N--network

quote Originally posted by DefEddie: If you get one,spend a few dollars more to get one that has datastream capability. Offhand I know actron and Equus make them for under or around $200.

Yes, there are scan tools that are affordable. I also have an Innova 3160 that I bought off amazon for about 200. It reads and clears powertrain codes, reads most data, reads and clears abs codes on some cars. It works ok, but nothing like a top quality scan tool. However, the top quality ones are just not an option for most DIY'ers due to their price tag.
The reason I suggested the Mac ET50 is because of its simplicity. It has 2 buttons. A 12 year old could use it. However, it only reads and clears powertrain codes. It does give a code description for most codes though.

In all honesty, I always reach for my Mac ET50 when diagnosing, unless I NEED to read some data, then I use the Innova. Most times, I don't need to see the data to diagnose. I read the code and start testing components and circuits from there. To accurately diagnose, you need to test the components and circuits anyways. A datastream will not tell you if the component is faulty or if the circuit for the component is faulty. You still have to do that part with a DVOM.

Don't get me wrong, there are times I need to read data, but not very often. Sometimes, a scan tool can be overwhelming to novice users. Not that an Innova 3160 is that hard to use, but if the user doesn't understand the data or know what the paramiters should be, it can cause confusion.

I'm not trying to talk anyone out of buying a scan tool over a code reader, just saying that depending on the users skills/knowledge, a scan tool might be more confusing than helpfull. But by all means, if you don't mind spending a little more, a scan tool is a more powerful tool than just a code reader and you don't HAVE to use the datastream capabilities of it. You can use a scan tool as just a code reader, but you can't use a code reader as a scan tool.

Yeah,ive got a simple two button i keep hanging around my neck also at work.
And if your very familiar with driveability it is used pretty often.
But if your not or if you need the info as an indicator then no replacement for datastream or mode6 data.
It's nice to watch PW if chasing a fuel system issue,or 02trims while gasing an intake.
For most people,codes get them confused enough-if your a gearhead though...
Can never have enough info while diag'ing.

Dumb question,but couldnt I just disconnect the battery to clear any stored codes (OBD-2)?

quote Originally posted by James Bond 007: Dumb question,but couldnt I just disconnect the battery to clear any stored codes (OBD-2)?

No. There are two classes of codes in OBD-2. Some will clear when the battery is reset, and others are stored in the ECU. A tool has to be used to tell the ECU to clear all the codes.