http://www.paintforcars.com..._merlotmetallic.html

Does it look like this comes with all the paint needed to do an entire Fiero? Anyone used these guys before?
Look like I would just need to get spraying equipment, sandpaper, prep/cleaner and primer.
What kind of primer would be ok with this urethane paint? Also could it be spray can primer?

"Complete Urethane Basecoat Clear Coat Two Stage car paint kit offers the greatest durability and gloss in a two stage paint system that provides the highest quality results. It includes one gallon of our Premium Urethane Basecoat (Starfire #2653) car paint, 2 quarts Paintforcars premium quality urethane reducer, Starfire Supreme Urethane Clear Coat #2657, 1 quart Paintforcars Starfire Urethane Clear Coat activator #2655, 1 disposable respirator, 3 paint strainers and 3 stir sticks. This kit includes everything you need to paint your car and achieve the highest possible quality finish that will last for years. "

I like sticking to brand names myself. You need to use REAL automotive primer. DONT use spray can stuff....almost guarantee you will regret it. Whether you use 2 part primer or regular primer/surfacer is your choice. Both will work under anything. You have to sand before AND after you spray the primer.

I have used this for years now. I have painted 2 cars and 1 8N Ford tractor with this Acrylic Urethane Enamel. I have purchased the paint for my 88 Coupe. Just waiting until about March to get started. I use their paint and their Perfect Prime 2 part primer. This stuff is usually dry around 20 minuets or less.

http://www.autobodytoolmart...-products-c-887.aspx

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 01-13-2011).]

I painted my bike and my Formula with paint and supplies from http://www.autobodytoolmart.com, they're great people to deal with. In fact, I'm painting another bike next month and ordered paint and supplies from them day before yesterday, stuff came in today. Call up their 800 number and hit 3 for sales, they're super nice people. The few times I've had any problems they made it right instantly and without a hassle.

The paint I used is Kirker. They're a middle-low end paint. Not as easy to work with as the nice PPG and Glasurit, but not $100+ a quart either. If you decide to go Kirker let me know and I'll go over in depth the tricks I learned while working with that line.

Oh, typically you want a base/clear (2-stage) system at a minimum. Most paints mix 3-1-1 or maybe 4-1-1, which means 3 (or 4) parts paint or clear to one part activator/catalyst to one part reducer. Depending on your prep and primer plus coverage characteristics of the point it will take 3-5 quarts for each stage (color, clear) plus the activators and reducers to get a sprayable gallon. That's with HVLP, too. Don't bother with a non-HVLP gun, the paint savings alone will pay for a cheap one with one job.

The way I "cheap out" on paint is to use Dupont Nason. It's the best cheaper paint I've seen, in 40 years of building show cars. Yes it's more expensive than the off-brands, but it's good paint & it lasts very well. I use it on everything that the owner (including me) can't justify spending the big bucks that Ditzler/PPG & Sikkens clears cost.
I also use PPG epoxy primer on EVERYTHING. It sticks better to the car, seals the previous paint well, & paint sticks to it better than any other primer. It's the ONLY primer that, if you have a nice smooth surface, you don't have to sand to paint over.
I just can't see, with all the time it takes to prep a car for paint, using anything cheaper. On occasion that I've tried the cheap shtuff (like when the owner already had the paint) I regretted it & so did the owner.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

I'm a hi-skool congragulet! Ain't nutin' gonna' stop me now but my inate inabilitries to progness cognatious thunk.

I have used it too. I bought the gun metal gray and it looked great. took a long time in shipping. thanks

Thanks guys, so you would not recommend the paint at paintforcars.com it seems.

So at this site, http://www.autobodytoolmart...-products-c-621.aspx
Jazzman you have used Kirker but state its not as easy to work with, is that because it is less expensive? I don't have experience with a real spray gun /mix. I have rattle canned some stuff that impressed people, but thats a whole other deal I know.

Anyway I see they have all these at the same website, are some good and others not? Of course yes I would like the best deal , you know affordable and decent.

"Dupli-Color Paint Shop Paints

Evercoat Paint Products

Kirker Paint Products

Mar-Hyde Paint Products

POR-15 Paint Products

Transtar Paint Products

U-Pol Paint Products

USC Paint Products"

[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 01-14-2011).]

quote Originally posted by 2.5: Thanks guys, so you would not recommend the paint at paintforcars.com it seems. So at this site, http://www.autobodytoolmart...-products-c-621.aspx Jazzman you have used Kirker but state its not as easy to work with, is that because it is less expensive? I don't have experience with a real spray gun /mix. I have rattle canned some stuff that impressed people, but thats a whole other deal I know. Anyway I see they have all these at the same website, are some good and others not? Of course yes I would like the best deal , you know affordable and decent. "Dupli-Color Paint Shop Paints Evercoat Paint Products Kirker Paint Products Mar-Hyde Paint Products POR-15 Paint Products Transtar Paint Products U-Pol Paint Products USC Paint Products"

The Dupli-Color stuff is the lacquer paint. Lots more work to do after you spray.

Evercoat is mostly primers and such.

POR 15 is rust killer products

Trans Star Makes basicly undercoating such as sealer and primers.

U-Pol primers and clear coats

USC Paint Products Clear Coats and primers

Kirker Paint Products Primers, Clearcoats, and Acrylic Urethane Enamels

My Dad used to do this for a second job. So I have been around it growing up. He told me long ago that it was a good idea to stay with the same brand of paints and primers so there would never be a compatibility issues. He would not use Sherwin Williams primers underneath Dupont top coat. I have read where others have recommended this same thought. Others may differ, but I try to stay with his suggestions. But that being said, there are others here that paint professionally, and offer their methods and personnel favorites. I think they are pretty darn good at what they do or they wouldn't still be doing it for a profit.

I use the Kirker products from the AutoBodyToolMart.com and have been real pleased with the pricing and quality of the paint products. Shipping from them has always been quick and fair priced.

-Joe

I use the Evercoat and Mar Hyde primers. To me, the whole point of primer is to give you something easy to sand to fix minor flaws in the surface before painting. If you dont sand it to get that out, or primer over filler or bare metal, theres no point in primering in the first place. Painting over a good paintjob thats sanded properly requires no kind of primer at all to get as good results. I see lots of locals putting primer over a car thats barely scuffed thinking that it will ' glue' the paint on. It dont

I also, use dupont/Nason. relatively cheap, easy to use, Holds up REAL well. AND, you can get it LOCALLY, you don't have to deal with "Mail order". you have a real live person to speak to if you have questions !