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How To Completely Disassemble Your Doors by fieroboom
Started on: 11-29-2008 10:24 PM
Replies: 61
Last post by: JohnWPB on 01-27-2012 11:19 PM
fieroboom
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Report this Post12-17-2008 03:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroboomClick Here to visit fieroboom's HomePageClick Here to Email fieroboomSend a Private Message to fieroboomDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Lee Phillips:

VERY Nice! I hope I don't have to that much disassembly (lubrication of windows and locks, slides, etc; adding power windows; changing to power mirrors) but here's pix of how to do it all. THANKS for posting it!

lee


You're very welcome!

edit to do da pwn teh page dance...

[This message has been edited by fieroboom (edited 12-17-2008).]

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02greens10
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Report this Post12-18-2008 01:07 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 02greens10Click Here to Email 02greens10Send a Private Message to 02greens10Direct Link to This Post
FYI you didnt need to cut the mirror the studs are just screwed into the mirror and just unthread like a bolt. Ask me how I know. I did the same, excpet cutting the bolt with a grinder.

I just did my doors with new dew wipes and greased my tracks and rollers. Also grease you latch from the inside. The door is literally like new now.

Anyone have a cheap source for the molding clips, mine all busted too.
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BMTFIERO
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Report this Post12-18-2008 12:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BMTFIEROClick Here to Email BMTFIEROSend a Private Message to BMTFIERODirect Link to This Post
Add to My Favorites

thanks
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BigB
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Report this Post03-26-2009 03:37 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BigBClick Here to Email BigBSend a Private Message to BigBDirect Link to This Post
The fierostore has the molding clips. I've taken panels off a few times now and find that applying pressure first up then out (top first) will save you from breaking the molding clips - they are designed to release without breaking.
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sjmaye
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Report this Post03-26-2009 04:56 AM Click Here to See the Profile for sjmayeSend a Private Message to sjmayeDirect Link to This Post
Well Done. Thank you very much. I will be using this very soon. ++++ for you
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Ridgelandbaseball
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Report this Post08-22-2009 10:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RidgelandbaseballClick Here to Email RidgelandbaseballSend a Private Message to RidgelandbaseballDirect Link to This Post
Great instructions. I will be doing this myself.
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Dennis LaGrua
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Report this Post08-22-2009 11:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaClick Here to Email Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for taking the time to go through a complete disassembly of the door. While partial disassembly works for most repairs most of the time, this post shows how everything goes together. A + post for sure.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
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86Red2M6
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Report this Post08-23-2009 12:36 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 86Red2M6Click Here to Email 86Red2M6Send a Private Message to 86Red2M6Direct Link to This Post
Thanks for the detail, I will be doing some door work. This will save me the headache of figuring it out as I go. Great detail in the pics.
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John W. Tilford
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Report this Post08-23-2009 06:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for John W. TilfordClick Here to visit John W. Tilford's HomePageClick Here to Email John W. TilfordSend a Private Message to John W. TilfordDirect Link to This Post
Let's get back to the important item: the fence tool.

The pointy thingie can be driven, as one would swing a hammer, between the inverted-U shaped classic fence staple and the wooden post it's in and you want it out. After a couple of hits, you can hook the point under the round part of the staple that's exposed. If you are dealing with a staple stuck in really hard wood, you can place the point in the appropriate spot trying to get under the staple and hit the other, flat, side of the tool with a real hammer. Once you have penetration, so to speak, you can pry/pull out the staple by pulling back on the handles of the tool, with a similar motion to pulling out a nail with a carpenter's hammer.

The "hammer" side is used like it looks, just like a small hammer. You have to hit harder and more times, but you can drive a staple to hold wire fence to a wooden post. Also used as described above, to be hit by a real hammer to drive the point where you want it to go.

The pincher/center can be used to grab loose staples and just pull them out, as you would use pliers. Less obvious, but really helpful when fixing fence, you can grab the wire fence and pull it tight against a post by using the tool as a lever, then, with your other hand and a real hammer, drive a staple to hold the tightened fence in place. It is a good thing to use a metal tool to hold, and pull hard on, barbed wire fence.

Thanks for taking me back a few decades!
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css9450
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Report this Post10-06-2009 08:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for css9450Click Here to Email css9450Send a Private Message to css9450Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fieroboom:

Once the door skin kinda pops free, stop pulling and look underneath it. The linkage to the door handle & lock still need to be disconnected:





Well that sure is special! I've been trying for two days to remove the latch and handle from inside the door. My fingers just don't fit in there let alone with any tools in hand. I never realized the handle and its mechanism would come up with the door skin. I'm in the midst of a complete door swap but I'm reusing the mirror, dew strips, lock cylinder and GT aero molding from my original door. This swap is going on a week now!

 
quote
Originally posted by 02greens10

FYI you didnt need to cut the mirror the studs are just screwed into the mirror and just unthread like a bolt. Ask me how I know. I did the same, excpet cutting the bolt with a grinder.



That's what I found too; I panicked SEVERELY when I discovered the studs were spinning along with the nuts on both my doors, but no matter, the studs came out nicely with the nuts still on them, no problem at all.
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Formula88
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Report this Post01-01-2010 10:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Formula88Send a Private Message to Formula88Direct Link to This Post
Any chance of getting the pics rehosted? Or can everyone else see them ok?
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Terry_w
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Report this Post01-01-2010 11:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Terry_wClick Here to Email Terry_wSend a Private Message to Terry_wDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Formula88:

Any chance of getting the pics rehosted? Or can everyone else see them ok?

Just one of many posts ruined by posting pics that are hosted offsite.

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theogre
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Report this Post01-02-2010 12:03 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreDirect Link to This Post
Site is down. Probably someone didn't pay the bill. Need to use PIP for that reason. If PIP can't handle it (Size problem) there is ways....
If he does fix it then don't know.
Copyright mean he own them. I have the pictures IF he want them.
See if he PM or Email.

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theogre
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Report this Post01-03-2010 06:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreDirect Link to This Post
Site is up.....
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AL87
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Report this Post10-26-2010 04:23 AM Click Here to See the Profile for AL87Click Here to Email AL87Send a Private Message to AL87Direct Link to This Post
are these pics re-hosted again on not?

I can't see anything but a blue outline where pics are supposed to be...

I need this so I can diy without destrying anything... my fiero's doors need to be gone through and will continue to squeak until then,,,
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BMTFIERO
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Report this Post06-20-2011 01:25 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BMTFIEROClick Here to Email BMTFIEROSend a Private Message to BMTFIERODirect Link to This Post
A "great how to" Bump
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FieroG97J
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Report this Post06-20-2011 10:21 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroG97JClick Here to Email FieroG97JSend a Private Message to FieroG97JDirect Link to This Post
Very helpful post. But please don't reuse that funky door. There are 100's of them in members garages here that you can use instead. I recently had 4 completely stripped out and totally rust free doors stolen by the scrap metal robbers in the area. And while they were at it they took 10 antique Cub Cadet garden tractors I had too.
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BMTFIERO
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Report this Post06-20-2011 12:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BMTFIEROClick Here to Email BMTFIEROSend a Private Message to BMTFIERODirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by FieroG97J:

. . . doors stolen by the scrap metal robbers in the area. . .


You Too !!!!

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jscott1
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Report this Post06-20-2011 01:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jscott1Send a Private Message to jscott1Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by BMTFIERO:


You Too !!!!


Send some over my way... they can have all the scap metal they can haul out of my yard.
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FieroG97J
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Report this Post06-21-2011 09:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroG97JClick Here to Email FieroG97JSend a Private Message to FieroG97JDirect Link to This Post
Let's take up a collection to buy Fireboom a toolbox
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Robert 2
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Report this Post08-01-2011 11:01 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Robert 2Send a Private Message to Robert 2Direct Link to This Post
ttt
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JohnWPB
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Report this Post01-27-2012 11:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JohnWPBClick Here to visit JohnWPB's HomePageSend a Private Message to JohnWPBDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for the tutorial, a quick Google search of PFF turned it up, and helped me out today!
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