Like the title says, my car doesn't sound the same as it used to. The engine grumbles, and the car can barely accelerate. I haven't noticed a drop in gas milage, I'm getting about 20. Since I've owned the car I've replaced the spark plugs, wires, most fluids(transmission, engine, coolant, ect), fuel filter, the air filter looks new, distributer, cap and rotor, heater core... and some other things I may be forgetting. When my dad stopped by O'Reilly's to get the heater core he said the guy there had owned like 7 fieros and was working on one right now. The guy told him it was most likely something with the EGR. Does this sound true? What should I check to see what needs replacing? The car is an 87GT, 2.8, 5 speed.
[This message has been edited by gh0st (edited 12-11-2010).]
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11:53 AM
PFF
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phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17106 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
Yes, it does come on when I start the car. My SES did come on the other day, just after I changed the heater core. I'll go check. Thankyou, that video was very helpful.
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12:26 PM
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17106 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
Oh, no I don't think I replaced the distributer, just the cap and rotor. I don't think the problem started after I did that either. I checked for error codes, I watched it for a few minutes and it just repeated 12, more than 3 times.
[This message has been edited by gh0st (edited 12-11-2010).]
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12:47 PM
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17106 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
Lets clean up that EGR valve while were here. Two 13mm headed bolts and a vacuum line and it's off. Be careful not to bump around the tube that leads from the block under the EGR to the bottom of the intake manifold. They are prone to leaking.
Two bolts and the vacuum line and the EGR valve should be in your hands. Clean any carbon deposits from it with a wire wheel Check to make sure it moves up and down ok. Then push it up, seal the vacuum line with your finger and make sure the diaphram stays in the up position. Then pull your finger off and the diaphram sould return to it's normal position.
The problems that could cause the troubles like you describe are a stuck open (retracted) valve, or a valve with carbon deposits that hold it open. Usually the trouble is much worse at idle and low speed engine operation. Usually at higher speed it doesn't make as much difference.
It's easy to clean, and easy to test so might as well have at it and either prove it to be the cause, or eliminate it as the cause.
It's the big round thing right next to the arrow head
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01:07 PM
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17106 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
Take out your oxygen sensor and see how it runs. I'm thinking plugged catalytic converter if it is still there... might be the muffler as well.
Specially if the noise it's making kinda sounds like you blowing through your teeth held together. A plugged exhaust will tend to cause more change in operation when the throttle is more open, and less with the engine is operating at idle. ie, it kinda idles fine but when trying to accelerate it just goes nowhere.
[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 12-11-2010).]
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01:08 PM
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gh0st Member
Posts: 69 From: Ohio, United States Registered: May 2010
I just drove the car, its got way worse. I was doing 50, gas pedal all the way to the floor, 5th gear, and the car was decelerating. In 4th gear, pedal to the floor, it could only maintain 45. Help!!
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05:54 PM
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17106 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
Remove the O2 sensor - its on the exhaust pipes - past where the two cylinder banks join up - but before the catalyic converter. This will cause an exhaust leak there. If the engine runs much better with the exhaust leak you have an exhaust problem. Most likely a plugged converter.
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07:08 PM
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17106 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
Running with the O2 sensor removed will cause the Service Engine Soon light to come on and will force the ECM to run in open loop mode. After the test you will need to reset the ECM by removing one of the battery cables for 30 seconds.
Removing the O2 sensor has to be done from underneath. Back the car on ramps like you're doing an oil change. Let the car sit for a while after you back it up the ramps to let the exhaust system cool off so you don't burn yourself. Watch out for the cat, that part will be the hottest part on the exhaust.
[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 12-11-2010).]
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07:12 PM
gh0st Member
Posts: 69 From: Ohio, United States Registered: May 2010
Yes, I do hear an air noise coming from behind me. I'm going to jack the car up and try what you said, the guy at autozone also said to try knocking on the cat to see it it sounds solid.
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07:57 PM
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17106 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
Yes, I have jack stands and the car was supported by them before I went under. The noise did come along with the trouble. I disconnected the O2 sensor, that solved my power issues. So... I either need to straight pipe it or get a high flow one from Rodney... what would you recommend?
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11:33 PM
Dec 12th, 2010
Raydar Member
Posts: 41375 From: Carrollton GA. Out in the... country. Registered: Oct 1999
You don't need to go with a Rodney cat unless you plan on passing emissions in California. The wackos in CA feel the need for the converter to look like origional equipment. More government stupid think. So it doesn't matter if your new converter works as good as the origional in CA. It doesn't matter if your converter works better than origional. It matters to the brilliant people in CA if it is origional. So we come up with converters that sure look origional and install them. Course they aren't origional but that doesn't matter. I surely would think the government nimrods even know exactly what is going on. But it makes their small brains feel good and so we all play the 'stupid game'. Kinda sounds like the regulators for Chernobyl eh?
Check the prices of cats at the local store and then make your call.