I'm getting ready to paint my Fiero, every single body panel is off and Maaco is willing to paint all of these panels off the chassis. Never thought I would consider Maaco, but has anyone ever used them before? If so, how long ago? what package did you get? did you have them do any repair work? did you do any prep work yourself? Bottom line, are you happy with the results?

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Nick D.
'88 Fiero GT 5-spd
'03 Jetta GLS TDI 5-spd

you have to do all the prep work yourself. and you can't really compare maaco to maaco, each one is different so best bet is to find people who used them. Personally I wouldn't use maaco unless I knew someone who used them and also knew about paint.

Based on what I've read from the paint pros on the forum, the best indication of the quality you can expect will first start with the type of paint they are using. Then you need to see an example of a vehicle using that program along with proper preparation as opposed to the seal and shoot job I paid for many years ago. It wasn't bad but I have no idea of how well it held up because I didn't keep the car longer than about a year afterwards. Make sure your prep work is excellent and that they know what they are working with for a surface. Also inquire about how many coats they are going to apply because although I knew little to nothing about painting at the time I could see the coat was pretty thin. They didn't break their necks trying to cover my IROC wheels to keep over spray off of them either.

The general consensus I've gathered is ..

For the best results, prep and mask it yourself - these guys shoot several cars a day. That's what they're good at. Also, it's probably a good idea to get to know the painters, to get a feel for their work ethics and practices (wouldn't hurt to tell 'em a few beers could go their way if you like what they do).

I've heard it said before that doing your own prep work before going to Maaco was a good idea. I need some work done on my lower rocker panel, some deep scratches, and a small 2" cut in my rear bumper. I've been looking at some SEM products, but they have so many I'm not sure which to get. I need something like bondo for plactics, as in a filler for my deep scratches and then something for my bumper. Any suggestions? Other products?

Thanks again,

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Nick D.
'88 Fiero GT 5-spd
'03 Jetta GLS TDI 5-spd

Great paint over shoddy prep work results in a car that looks like crap. I've seen cheap paint jobs over flawless bodywork and those looked and showed way better than the first way. My bet is that if you were to remove all the panels, do a killer sanding and prep job, and take them down just to shoot the color it would look great. I wouldn't opt for their cheapest paint either, they have different grades. The majority of costs are in the body work and prep. If you do that yourself, opt for better paint to compliment the hard work. At the very least, remove all the trim yourself and mask anything you don't want paint on. And I mean everything..... wheel wells, exhaust pipes, jambs, etc. They get paint everythwere.

I had my wifes pontiac painted by Maaco. I opted for the Deluxe package.
It looked good at night from 50 feet away.

my car was painted by a cheap place, probably maaco, this was before i got the car.. and the paints already peeling off, paints probably less than five yrs old

I have used maaco on a few occasions. good if you don't care about longevity (the gloss fades in a couple years). i used three different places and as i have read in this thread, they really don't do prep work (that will cost extra). they all told me they "scuff" sand the surface and then paint. most use a single stage paint (no clear coat) they say it is mixed in the paint (again you can pay extra for a base coat clear coat paint job, but when i asked i was told it would cost twice the price). all three paint jobs had blems in the paint but you get what you pay for and i bought the television advertised specials. the cars i had painted by maaco were just knock around vehicles that i just wanted to clean up a little and they looked good for what they were.
now don't get me wrong, i would use maaco again but for knock around cars, most likely not my fiero.
al

Also, if you can, talk to the guy who's gonna spray your car. Make sure he knows you care about the car and it's not just a quick respray to sell it.
Maybe get him a six-pack of his favorite beverage.

The quality of the paint varies depending on the type of job you get, so don't assume you can go with the cheapest job just because you did the prep work, because you'll also get the cheapest paint.

I've also heard they don't change their air filters very frequently, so when possible try to schedule your work right after they've been changed.
I've seen good work come out of a Maaco, but I don't know how long it will last.

Was just at MAACO with a friend (Yesterday), some things never change, so-so prep, Lousy taping, & they never ever bend down to paint the lower part of the rocker panels ! No, he won't be using them.

Like said, their franchises and each one is on their own. The one by me used to do great jobs IF I DID all the prep, from sanding to masking and my own body work. You can get single stage cheap paint or a basecoat clearcoat finish. The one here even does basecoat/ clearcoats wet sanded and buffed if you want to pay for it. Even cheapest paints are good if the prep is done right. They now have a different painter that couldnt paint a bicycle. Ive even had them shoot my own personal cars that I used for daily driver and they looked fine. Next spring, Ill prob let them shoot my minivan I just bought just because its crap as it is to me and it wont fit in my door being a hightop. Each one also uses whatever brand of paint they want. This one used to use the same as I do (BASF/R&M). Now they use Sherwin-Williams. Another branch here in town used to use PPG and switched to Ditzler. Just be sure, your not going to get a $3000 looking paint job for $300. As to something else aready said, dont pay for extras like extra clear or hardener. Your going to get the same amount of clear, and they put hardener in all the jobs anyway. They have to or they couldnt fix problems they get like major runs. They just try to get you for more money if they can. The best advise like someone said already too....is to look at some of their finished jobs on the lot before you commit. Dont just take their reference names and call them...you might just be calling an employee.

Thanks all, it looks like its best if I do the prep work myself.

They did this car for me.. I did a little bit of the prep work but all in all it came out nice. Makew sure you get the urathane paint over the enamle the enamale will last you a couple years and start to flafe off. mine was done with urathane and is still very smooth and still sparkels. Check into the macco you get it doen through. macco is a hit or miss. theres a bunch of them around me but one one has a flawless record. The one i took it to used dupont paint booths and tools and they did a great job.. als when getting it painted pannels off MAKE SURE THE PAINT THE PART IN THE POSISTION AS IF IT WOULD BE PAINTED ON THE CAR. This will ensure that the look flows right. meaning if there painting a fender make sure they hang it on the rack as if it were mounted on the car. This can be vitial to a good paintjob.


This is my car below.. it was done about a year ago and still looks really good

[This message has been edited by pontiackid86 (edited 11-19-2010).]

quote Originally posted by pontiackid86: They did this car for me.. I did a little bit of the prep work but all in all it came out nice. Makew sure you get the urathane paint over the enamle the enamale will last you a couple years and start to flafe off. mine was done with urathane and is still very smooth and still sparkels. Check into the macco you get it doen through. macco is a hit or miss. theres a bunch of them around me but one one has a flawless record. The one i took it to used dupont paint booths and tools and they did a great job.. als when getting it painted pannels off MAKE SURE THE PAINT THE PART IN THE POSISTION AS IF IT WOULD BE PAINTED ON THE CAR. This will ensure that the look flows right. meaning if there painting a fender make sure they hang it on the rack as if it were mounted on the car. This can be vitial to a good paintjob.

The Maaco by my house has been owned by the same owner for over 20 years now, so that might be a plus. Thanks for the urathane advice, I was considering it. I like the tip on hanging the panels, I will convey this to whoever paints my car.

honestly if you're going to do all the work of prepping it etc yourself...I think you're better off just painting it yourself also. If you're doing a panel off job then its really easy.

My wife had my Monte Carlo done there. They painted racing stripes on it and did some touch up work around the body with the deluxe package. Its a 20/20 paint job. Looks good 20 feet away going 20 mph. Its a great job for a daily driver but would not want it done on my Fiero.

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Adam

Maaco is a Franchise operation NOT a Company Chain Store. Like BK and many McD "food" store.
That's why you can't use Maaco in good/bad to the next...

Panel off, paint is likely fine as long as paint is solid colors... Metal flake, etc, want to be uses body panel on car.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

I had then do my first Fiero and they didnt do too good a job, but then we had them do a race car and it came out better -maaco had new owner- and he even fixed the other guy's screw up at a very reasonable price. So it kind of depends on the shop and like others have stated how good you prep the car. I'd also recommend talking with them and making sure your they know what you want , like no runs or dry spots etc. You cant expect too much for thye charge, I'll be painting the Fiero Im doing my myself.

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[IMG]




trueleo.com
RSpiderII@aol.com

This past weekend I had check into two Maaco's. First I notice that the top of the line paint was $200 difference between the two shops. At one shop I was shown two cars, one with a enamel (option #2) and the other with polyurethane (option #3) a better choice. The #2 option looked like crap, the paint looked like it had orange peel and it obvious had no prep work done, that is, no paint chips where filled in. The option #3 paint job was a night and day difference compared to #2. It was explained to me that it was the difference in paint and the added cost of the prep work. To get the high end paint (option #4) with all the prep work and body panels off was in the low two's. If I'm gonna spend that kind of money, I might as well go to a higher end shop.

I think I'm gonna learn how to do body work. My new winter project.

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Nick D.
'88 Fiero GT 5-spd
'03 Jetta GLS TDI 5-spd

Good choice. Another option few ever mention. Do your own prep work, hire a painter (even from Maaco) to come over when its ready and spray it for you if you dont think you can. Maaco guy here get $35 per car to mix the paint and spray it. Another plus is that painter may even bring his own gun so you dont need to buy one. Might even get it shot for a case of beer. I could be talked into just shooting it for free for the right people. Maybe even do a barter with something your good at. ie/ fix my broken computer for my labor to paint.

quote Originally posted by rogergarrison: Good choice. Another option few ever mention. Do your own prep work, hire a painter (even from Maaco) to come over when its ready and spray it for you if you dont think you can. Maaco guy here get $35 per car to mix the paint and spray it. Another plus is that painter may even bring his own gun so you dont need to buy one. Might even get it shot for a case of beer. I could be talked into just shooting it for free for the right people. Maybe even do a barter with something your good at. ie/ fix my broken computer for my labor to paint.

Are you near Chicago?

sounds like a good excuse to buy a compressor and sprayer

Hey pk. Hopefully its not the same maaco that painted my green car. That paint it running away from the car i swear. I almost feel like I should keep track off how fas it is peeling just for reference.

quote Originally posted by rogergarrison: Good choice. Another option few ever mention. Do your own prep work, hire a painter (even from Maaco) to come over when its ready and spray it for you if you dont think you can. Maaco guy here get $35 per car to mix the paint and spray it. Another plus is that painter may even bring his own gun so you dont need to buy one. Might even get it shot for a case of beer. I could be talked into just shooting it for free for the right people. Maybe even do a barter with something your good at. ie/ fix my broken computer for my labor to paint.

We have 2 hooters here in Lakeland. I need 2 cars painted

I went to a Macco facility to apply for a job. Walking through the parking lot I was like oh yay fresh paint. I took a look at several cars in the lot kicking out, still taped up and Im pretty sure ALL they do it paint jobs. I do not think they do body work there. At least at the place I went to.

I saw fresh paint over what appeared to be #80 DA scratches. I saw super obvious dings all over every single one of those "jobs".

I would absolutely go nuts working for that place. There is no way anyone should get charged for jobs like that.

The cars in the lot had not been buffed on yet so I will say that somehow they managed to put what appears to be consistent color over what they were working with and I didn't see any runs for what its worth.

If your going to let them paint it, "totally based on what I saw at this one place", do the bodywork yourself, emphasize that they must clean the panels thoroughly and hope it goes well

i have had two fieros painted a my local macco shop. first thing first. you get what you pay for. they have paint prices from $99.00 to $3,000.00. tell them what you want then work on the price. ok, my first car was my 87gt. black. i paid them $1400.00 for that one. told them i take it to car shows. they did an awesome job. second one was my newly found 88gt that had clearcoat pealling off of it. basic repaint and clearcoat was $595.00. i would give the first a 8-9 on paint. 88 would get a 7-8 for some under car overspray. i had to remove the side marker lights/tailights/front badge/ headlight doors..they sand and prime and paint. even the guys in my local fiero club are suprised at the paint jobs. if it is not done to your liking make them fix it. tell them this first so they understand you mean it. give them half the price up front and tell them they get the rest when car is done to your likeing. ps. i have sent 6 more cars there way. they earned it.

quote Originally posted by npdimonte: This past weekend I had check into two Maaco's. First I notice that the top of the line paint was $200 difference between the two shops. At one shop I was shown two cars, one with a enamel (option #2) and the other with polyurethane (option #3) a better choice. The #2 option looked like crap, the paint looked like it had orange peel and it obvious had no prep work done, that is, no paint chips where filled in. The option #3 paint job was a night and day difference compared to #2. It was explained to me that it was the difference in paint and the added cost of the prep work. To get the high end paint (option #4) with all the prep work and body panels off was in the low two's. If I'm gonna spend that kind of money, I might as well go to a higher end shop. I think I'm gonna learn how to do body work. My new winter project.

I was quoted by a High end show paint guy $3800 for a complete repaint of my Fiero in the stock red and the Dark grey silver lowers Show grade paint job, including 20 hours of prep and panel repair.. in this economy the high end guys are very, very, hungry and are interested in keeping the doors open.

and no I'm not sharing who it is because if he get's a bunch of work my price will go up. I'll let it out AFTER he get's the deposit and starts spraying. I was keyed in on this guy from a couple biker friends getting a $10,000 custom paint job on an ultraglide and a Vrod in house of Kolor paints with ghost flames and skulls done for $4800.00 each.. The guy put in almost 180 hours of work on the two bikes, and just wants to be able to keep the doors open and not have to give up his business...

Look at local shops with real skilled paint and body guys... they are hungry right now and will give you a deal if you are honest with them.

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Best RV, Camper, and Trailer dealer in West Michigan. http://www.cliffstrailersales.com and he's a fiero owner too!

quote Originally posted by timgray: I was quoted by a High end show paint guy $3800 for a complete repaint of my Fiero in the stock red and the Dark grey silver lowers Show grade paint job, including 20 hours of prep and panel repair.. in this economy the high end guys are very, very, hungry and are interested in keeping the doors open. Look at local shops with real skilled paint and body guys... they are hungry right now and will give you a deal if you are honest with them.

This is true. I'm doing paintjobs cheaper than I would have a couple years ago. I'm taking cheap 2-door cars in as partial trade, if the owner has one. (I really just want some decent mechanical shape cars to do custom paintjobs on ;-)
I can do show quality paint on a Fiero for much less than $3800 (even using PPG epoxy primer & base/clear), especially if the owner does a lot of the dis-assembly & re-assembly themselves. And that would include more than 20 hours prep work & could include very trick graphics if you like. (You should see the car I'm currently doing!) I've had folks bring me cars from as far away as Ohio in the past, too. (BTW I'm in N.E. Ga.)
I'm actually doing paintjobs in Forza to show the owners how their car will look. I have hundreds of trick cars done in Forza - you should see the ones I've done on cars such as the Solstice...(Forza doesn't have a Fiero so I use a 355 most of the time for those).
Anyone interested can PM me or email me at ImThaDriver at yahoo.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

I use maaco a lot for quick fixes I pickup cheap. They can shoot the whole car for less than I can buy a qt. of paint and clear to blend the car. If you go with them make sure you prep everything first their idea of a scuff is a scotch pad half assed. I usually da the car down and then wetsand it before I send it to them. The urethane paint is better overall than the acrylic. And still cheap. Also a plain color with no metallic lays better. Any color with metallic in it had hazes and dark and light spots. I've sold 5 cars to people I know than I've had done at maaco. And none of them have flaked off . The only one I ever had get dull after a year was my exes 01 impala. But I washed it and waxed it and it brought the shine right back. If you don't have money and looking for a cheap decent paint its worth it. But if you have the money you might want to opt a good painter and a basecoat /clear. The difference is night and day between the both.

Again, all Maacos are different. One by me does complete collision repair, even rebuilds totals (questionable work). I see a lot of local custom car people that get their weekend cruisers done there. There not SEMA show cars, but nice rides. Most are just spray and deliver. They dont do buffing at all except their high dollar jobs people pay for. Ill have used cars that need a complete job done there just because they have a booth. Show jobs and high end cars I do myself, and I sand and buff them so a little dust is not a problem. Last summer they did a Hudson leadsled with all seams welded & filled, top chopped, and body sectioned. Then did a 2 tone paint job.It looked pretty good.

Thanks for all the advice. I have noticed that every one talks about a DA sander, but I have an electric orbital sander, are they both the same?

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Nick D.
'88 Fiero GT 5-spd
'03 Jetta GLS TDI 5-spd

Does the pad just spin around a single shaft, or can you hold the pad still while its running ? DA is dual orbital meaning the pad spins on 2 separate shafts so you can stop it while its remains running. (hope that makes sense)

Actually "DA" is "dual action". A true DA sander has two modes: one is RANDOM orbital where the disc freewheels, & the other is lockdown where it spins like a grinder. On your electric, it's probably just an orbital sander, which is good enough to get by with if you keep it moving - at least for large flat areas.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

quote Originally posted by rogergarrison: Does the pad just spin around a single shaft, or can you hold the pad still while its running ? DA is dual orbital meaning the pad spins on 2 separate shafts so you can stop it while its remains running. (hope that makes sense)

The pad has, what I might refer to as a slight wobble, as it spins. Checked out a DA sander at my local HF and saw a locking mechanism for the shaft. My guess is that when its un-locked its center point is constant, whereas in the locked position its not? This locking mechanism is what makes it a DA?

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Nick D.
'88 Fiero GT 5-spd
'03 Jetta GLS TDI 5-spd

Pretty much. You can spin the pad with it unlocked without the sander running....the 'motor' dont turn. This type of sander wont dig into the surface because instead of just spinning like a grinder does, it sort of squiggles. With it locked, you can do some grinding with it. DA stands for 'dual action'. Its also become a brand name like Kleenex...' DAQ '

[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 11-30-2010).]

So, its best to get a DA sander, but my electric orbital sander may work?

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Nick D.
'88 Fiero GT 5-spd
'03 Jetta GLS TDI 5-spd