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  cant get my 86gt 4speed clutch to disengage :(

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cant get my 86gt 4speed clutch to disengage :( by cyphersync
Started on: 11-08-2010 05:50 PM
Replies: 5
Last post by: Rodney on 11-09-2010 07:43 AM
cyphersync
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Report this Post11-08-2010 05:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cyphersyncSend a Private Message to cyphersyncDirect Link to This Post
so i just installed my clutch in my 86 gt 4speed and i have bled the clutch every way possible, also uninstalled the slave and master cylinders for inspection and i just cant get it to disengage for the life of me HELP!!!!!!!!!!!! its the only thing stoping me from my awesomeness of fiero driving!


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Bloozberry
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Report this Post11-08-2010 06:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryDirect Link to This Post
If you're not getting 1-1/8" of travel on the slave cylinder pushrod, then your problem is that you still have air in the line or the cylinders. Go to V8 Archie's site here: www.v8archie.com/v8Archie/home.htm and click on the menu at the bottom left called Archisms, and then read Archism #1. The key is that at the end of conventional bleeding, you must crack open the slave bleeder, push the pushrod back into the cylinder to expel any trapped air in the slave, tighten the bleeder and slowly release the pushrod drawing fluid in from the reservoir. If that still doesn't cure it, then you may have a bent clutch pedal that prevents you from getting the full travel. See Archism #4.

If you are getting 1-1/8" of travel at the slave cylinder pushrod, then make sure the slave cylinder bracket is securely fastened to the transmission, and that the clutch arm isn't bending as you push the pedal in. If you're still left with a problem, then double check that you got the correct clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing.
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scrabblegod
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Report this Post11-08-2010 10:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for scrabblegodSend a Private Message to scrabblegodDirect Link to This Post
The other thing that can cause the problem is installing the clutch plate backwards. Has happened many times before, and will happen many times again.
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Dspoeth
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Report this Post11-09-2010 12:21 AM Click Here to See the Profile for DspoethSend a Private Message to DspoethDirect Link to This Post
I had this same problem with mine and it ended up being air in the slave cylinder. What I did was push the push rod in while cracking the bleeder screw. Not sure if you have done this yet but that is where I had air in my system.
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Rodney
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Report this Post11-09-2010 07:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RodneyClick Here to visit Rodney's HomePageSend a Private Message to RodneyDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Bloozberry:

The key is that at the end of conventional bleeding, you must crack open the slave bleeder, push the pushrod back into the cylinder to expel any trapped air in the slave, .


In my opinion this is not necessary if one jacks up the drivers side of the car so the air is expelled thru the bleeder. I tend to think this happens because when people bleed the clutch system they push down the drivers side of the car causing an air bubble in the passenger side of the slave cylinder. When I did mine I jacked up the drivers side some to make sure the bleeder was the high point of the slave. I had no problem with trapped air.

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Rodney
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Report this Post11-09-2010 07:43 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RodneyClick Here to visit Rodney's HomePageSend a Private Message to RodneyDirect Link to This Post

Rodney

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Member since Feb 2000
One thing to remember: When everything is new the slave piston sits about half way (maybe 40% or so) into the bore of the slave cylinder. As the clutch wears the slave piston recedes deeper into the slave. This exposes the internal wall to air. The residual brake fluid is ascorbic and attracts moisture in the air. This can cause rust on the cylinder wall. When you replace the clutch the piston is now back over this rusted surface and most likely the seal will no longer do a good job. When Ed Parks did clutches he always installed a new slave cylinder each time to avoid this common problem.

My slaves are aluminum and will not rust on the walls like the OEM steel and aftermarket cast iron slaves.


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Rodney Dickman

Fiero Parts And Acc's Web Page:
All new web page!:www.rodneydickman.com
Rodney Dickman's Fiero accessories
7604 Treeview Drive
Caledonia, WI 53108
Phone/Fax (262) 835-9575

[This message has been edited by Rodney (edited 11-09-2010).]

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