I'm about to start priming my car and I just want to double check the products I'm going use are proper. Upon the recommendation of the paint shop guy I'm using Nason 421-19 Select Prime 2k urethane primer to spot prime the areas I fixed. He wasn't sure if I would need an adhesion promoter for the bare spots on the doors and bumpers (there's very little) but I got some Bulldog brand in case. Then I got Nason 422-50 Select Seal 2k urethane primer to spray over everything (2 coats). Does this sound like overkill or about right? Do I need the adhesion promoter or should I add a flex agent or something? I'm trying to keep things relatively cheap but I also wasnt a good product.

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I use PPG epoxy primer (DP primers). It sticks better than anything else, & paint sticks to it better than anything else. It's also more flexible than anything else. If you haven't done any mods or repairs, there's no need for high-build. Not only that, but the high-build is not very flexible & not well suited for the bumpers.
If you have the body smooth, you can shoot paint directly over the epoxy without sanding it after ~20 minutes.
http://gafieroclub.org/bbs/index.php?topic=469.0
HTH,
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Jay Walking:
Jay Leno: Who lives at 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue?
Ummm, I don't know.
Jay: Who lives in a pineapple under the sea?
OH! Sponge Bob!

I'm going through the same effort- according to my paint shop and a few others, no primer required on areas where the paint in still in good shape. If you sanded down to plastic-spot prime those areas. Paint shop recommended an all over coat of sealer, though, to promote adhesion. If you are top coating with urethane-no need for flex agents, urethane is already flexible enough.

How much did the materials cost you and how much base/clear did you buy?

quote Originally posted by herkdriver: I'm going through the same effort- according to my paint shop and a few others, no primer required on areas where the paint in still in good shape. If you sanded down to plastic-spot prime those areas. Paint shop recommended an all over coat of sealer, though, to promote adhesion. If you are top coating with urethane-no need for flex agents, urethane is already flexible enough. How much did the materials cost you and how much base/clear did you buy?

No primer is REQUIRED over factory paint, but the epoxy will both seal it & add to the adhesion. Makes for a MUCH better job.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

quote Originally posted by Tha Driver: I use PPG epoxy primer (DP primers). It sticks better than anything else, & paint sticks to it better than anything else. It's also more flexible than anything else. If you haven't done any mods or repairs, there's no need for high-build. Not only that, but the high-build is not very flexible & not well suited for the bumpers. If you have the body smooth, you can shoot paint directly over the epoxy without sanding it after ~20 minutes. http://gafieroclub.org/bbs/index.php?topic=469.0 HTH, ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver" Jay Walking: Jay Leno: Who lives at 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue? Ummm, I don't know. Jay: Who lives in a pineapple under the sea? OH! Sponge Bob!

I've actually been referencing that page for everything so far but the paint shop I went to doesn't carry PPG so I got his recommendation. I have done some repairs mainly on my roof and front bumper then a bunch of little things. I also shaved my antenna and am adding some fiero warehouse side scoops. I have gotten my paint yet but I'm going to get a urethane paint. Just for the primer, sealer, and adhesion promoter I spent about $190 (with tax). Do you think It'd be cheaper to find somewhere that carries the PPG and only need that or go with what I have? Do I even need the adhesion promoter? And for the scoops do I just prime them and theyre all set?

Too add.......you dont need any 'flex agent' or 'adhesion promoters'. There automotive snake oil..... No matter what the store salesmen try to tell you.

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Owner / Operator Custom Paint and Body...
specializing in Corvette & Higher End Autos for 45 years
Ferrari, Mercedes and Porsche Body Repair Approved
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toys: '66 custom Dodge 'Super Bee'
power by 413 SuperStock V8
2008 Mustang Bullet Edition
1977 Cessna 172XP Hawk HiPerf

hey guys your forgetting the long term defect as time goes on, if u dont fill and feather your burn thru spots were u repairedand burnt thru u will eventually get halo's of the spot thru your paint depending the brand u use, for this reason alone high build is a good idea due to the fact u level the area and make it possible for the paint to shrink evenly. Time and time again I have had to fix other peoples paint jobs on the corvettes I work on due to the shrinkage problem when a simple spot prime and scuff is all they would have had to do or use high- build in the deeper areas
I am working on one right now as matter of fact with this problem and sand scratches coming thru the topcoat.
Yes I could wet sand it and for the most part fix this problem but then I remove clear wich is a bad idea if I am removing clear its to polish only not fix mistakes period. Use your high build knock it down by half with the nason meduim reducer and use it as spot primer then is a quick hit w 320 paper and your ready to go. and I agree with roger their is no need for flex agent with todays paint, I use the nason alot I love their clear it is verry forgiving and looks killer over dupont chromabase.

quote Originally posted by hinesb1890: I've actually been referencing that page for everything so far but the paint shop I went to doesn't carry PPG so I got his recommendation. I have done some repairs mainly on my roof and front bumper then a bunch of little things. I also shaved my antenna and am adding some fiero warehouse side scoops. I have gotten my paint yet but I'm going to get a urethane paint. Just for the primer, sealer, and adhesion promoter I spent about $190 (with tax). Do you think It'd be cheaper to find somewhere that carries the PPG and only need that or go with what I have? Do I even need the adhesion promoter? And for the scoops do I just prime them and theyre all set?

I've used just about everything made over the last 40 years, And there is nothing that compares to PPG epoxy (DP) primers. I prime everything with it first, even areas that need high-build & blocking 'cause it adheres so well. Then shoot the high-build on the areas that need it (your mods/repairs), & after blocking that re-coat with the epoxy. For a really slick job sand the epoxy with 400 wet.
On the side scoops - make sure you de-wax them AT LEAST TWICE to remove any mold release wax. Then sand with 180 dry (DA or by hand). You should have already de-waxed the entire car, before starting if it's been waxed & after sanding, before shooting any primer.
So: Return the adhesion promoter; Sounds like you only need about a quart of the high-build, so if you bought more return that & swap for a quart (I think it comes in quarts, but I never buy small amounts like that); Find a supplier that sells PPG & buy the DP primer. You can use the Nason base & clear they're not bad for a daily driver (I use them on some of my cars - http://angelonearth.net/BMW.html ).
At least that's what I'd do.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Some people say the glass is half full. Some people say the glass is half empty. I say it depends on whether you're pouring or drinking.

hey little tech note the ppg epoxy primer dosent like the nason paints it drys yes but isnt the best on durability also dont use nason autocryl as a base for a chroma base trying to save money, they dont like each other either. Ive been experimenting with diffrent systems over the last year at work and those defidently dont play well together.

[This message has been edited by jetsnvettes2000 (edited 08-11-2010).]

So I should just return what I got and use the PPG for everything? I found another paint store that carries PPG I'm going to call tomorrow and see if they have the primer. How much do I need though?

PPG, Nason, U-Pol, Etc. all are good products. I prefer U-Pol to prime and Autoair to basecoat with (nontoxic - just be sure to use a hair dryer or heat gun to crosslink the basecoat. This stuff has GRIP!). PPG Shopline is is great clear also but any name brand will give high quality.

Just my 2 cents

Paul

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1988 Fiero
3800SC Series 1 w/5spd Getrag
Lowering Springs
18's w/Pirellis
Corvette Dash Mod

1985 GT
1986 Notchie
1987 Notchie

My paint preferences are for high end stuff R&M/BASF Diamont and Limco Clear. This is what shops like Chip Foose uses. For repair jobs and lower end stuff I use Sherwin Williams Dimension 4 and Finish One clear. These cost 1/2 of PPG prices for about the same quality. Ive got many BJ quality cars that have been out there now for many years.

If you properly sand a panel before you prime it, and sand the primer properly and extended it far enough past the repair, you wont have a 'halo' appear around that primer spot even after 20 years. On collision repairs I spot primer all the time. If anything at all fishy appears after a couple days, color sanding and buffing eliminates it. After that Ive never had spots come back. Ive spotted in a few places just fine on my Coronet since its been painted 3 or 4 years ago. If you drive it, you got to expect to get some parking lot rash.

quote Originally posted by hinesb1890: So I should just return what I got and use the PPG for everything? I found another paint store that carries PPG I'm going to call tomorrow and see if they have the primer. How much do I need though?

IF your repair work/mods are smooth:
Return the high-build & adhesion promoter & buy the PPG epoxy (DP) primer. It can't be beat. (as for problems with it & Nason, I did my ZX with it & it still looked great after several years - no problems with the BMW either). If you can't stand the expense of the PPG base & clear, go with the Nason.
If you want to talk preferences (if you have plenty of money), I use Sikkens base & clear or PPG. Sikkens clear alone will cost you over $400 (for a gallon & catalyst/reducers) but it is the BEST on the market.
As for amount, depends on your car & spray equipment. Go with with 2 quarts of epoxy (again, if your repair work is smooth, just put extra epoxy on those areas & give it a few days to dry & block it out) - You'll need a quart of catalyst for 2 quarts of DP epoxy, so you'll have three quarts of primer. I always buy a gallon of paint so I'll have extra for repairs if needed. I also (usually) have the car apart & always paint the jambs/edges so it takes a little more than just a "scuff & douche" job. You may get away with 2 quarts of base & clear if you're just doing the outside of the car & use a HVLP gun.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Giggle Cream - it makes dessert *funny*!

Hey the driver, have u used the sikkens autocryl yet, Ive had good luck with it doing interior panel stuff using g3013 flattning agent (u.s paints) to knock down the gloss a bit 2 shot glasses makes a perfect sheen that isnt to chalky and is durable as hell also it passes burn testing in aircraft if u ever get a side job doing someones interior for a small aircraft. or corp jet

quote Originally posted by jetsnvettes2000: Hey the driver, have u used the sikkens autocryl yet, Ive had good luck with it doing interior panel stuff using g3013 flattning agent (u.s paints) to knock down the gloss a bit 2 shot glasses makes a perfect sheen that isnt to chalky and is durable as hell also it passes burn testing in aircraft if u ever get a side job doing someones interior for a small aircraft. or corp jet

I use the Autoclear. I was sold on it after (actually long before) a friend had a florescent light bulb fall from about 20 ft. up & DENT a 1/4 panel on a Mini he had painted about a month before - WITHOUT SCRATCHING THE PAINT!
EDIT: I painted an airplane once, & I hope to GOD that I never have to do it again!
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

[This message has been edited by Tha Driver (edited 08-12-2010).]

lol airplanes are not bad I used to paint the big boys gulfstreams on up to 747"s time consuming yes hard no not really just have to be verry organized but yup I wont do it again either, to hard on the ol body sanding the bottom of a wing for a week let alone the rest of the thing. Ugh thats why I got into the automitive market/ industrial machine painting trades but this is off topic I was just curious how u guys liked the sikkens paint line in autocryl I loved the stuff altho a bit expensive. Another good paint is glasurits I have had good luck with that too being a single stage and the mixing system for it is a breeze to use. I think for the budget minded home painter they cant go wrong with a good autocryl, then they have nothing to fuss with when it comes to the clear and if done right can be verry good lookin as well