After reading ideas on rebuild the steering rack and getting so much erroneous infomation I thought that I'd start a post on how its done.
I received Rodneys brass (bronze?) bushing in yesterdays mail and will install it today. Service and quality of part were as usual both excellent. Rodney is certainly a quality supplier. In the 87 rack it appears that this bushing is a direct fit piece. Meaning that you just disassemble the complete rack and install the bushing where the old was. The new bushing fits in the rack end under the retaining ring that was used to hold the old bushing in place. NO drilling tapping or pop riveting is required. You just follow the standard rebuild procedure.
Here is how to do it:
1. Remove outer tie rod ends and the steering damper (shock absorber thing).
2. Remove the dust boots by cutting the metal tie and pulling the old boots of of the tie rod shaft. Sometimes a small screw driver is needed to lift the boot ridge out of the tie rond groove.
3. Remove the inner tie rods. Use two wrenches one on the rod and the other on the innter tiw rod Sometimes difficult to do without grinding off the steaked area of the rod with a dremel.
4. Now using a small screwdriver pop the pinion shaft seal (over the pinion shaft) and lift it out. Looks hard but its real easy to do. Its the round balck disc at the top of the pinion (input) shaft
5. Remove retaining ring holding the pinion shaft and gear. ( Use appropriate pliers)
6. Loosen and remove the pre-load adjusting nut, lock, ring and spring.
7. tap out (gently) the pinion shaft with the bearing on it.
8. Slide out the shaft (rod assembly)
9. Remove the retaining ring that hold the bushing in place.
10. Tap out the old bushing using a couple of long ratchet extention bars and an apropraite sized socket.
Now wash everything off with kerosene or Brake clean
11. Tap in the new bushing in replace the Retaining rings and then re-assemble in the reverse order. Be sure to use plenty of wheel bearing grease.

I'll try to get some pics up later but repairing yourself certainly beats spending a couple of hundred on a rebuilt rack but again no drilling tapping or riveting is needed. I do not know where that technique was developed but it appears to be completely false unless this is the 88 only procedure??

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 07-11-2010).]

88 had the plastic bushing that was held in by integrated clips. Once removed, there is no remaining clips, so they must be screwed, riveted, drilled, or tapped. No other option I know of for 88. 87 appear to be designed differently.

This is something that I will need to do to my 87 GT in the very near future. Thanks for the simple, and easy to understand writeup. I have only read great advice from your technical posts in the past. This thread seems to follow that same theme.

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quote Originally posted by Tony Kania: This is something that I will need to do to my 87 GT in the very near future. Thanks for the simple, and easy to understand writeup. I have only read great advice from your technical posts in the past. This thread seems to follow that same theme.

Thanks for the Kudos Tony but I've always said that most of the fun in this hobby is sharing it with others. I'd hate to tell ya how many forum people here have given me some great tips, so it is only right that I try to give back once in a while. Because I'm a big mouth, I get dozens of PM's a week. Makes me feel like I really know something-LOL! Your posts always offer something of positive value too as you are a "straight shooter" like I am
Anyone can remove, rebuild and reinstall the rack. Its quite simple as long as you follow a logical disassembly and reassembly process. Rodneys bushings for the 84-87's sem the way to go. There is also a bearing on the pinion shaft that can be replaced and one on the tip. Those hardly ever go bad but are common bearings. I believe that the one on the shaft is a common 6203 w one shield on the topside. These go for only a couple of bucks each. Just never use the Chinese bearings as they are sh*t. American are best, Japanese are OK. Haven't figured out the bottom bearing number yet but I believe it to also be a commonly used size.

quote 88 had the plastic bushing that was held in by integrated clips. Once removed, there is no remaining clips, so they must be screwed, riveted, drilled, or tapped. No other option I know of for 88. 87 appear to be designed differently.

Should have known that those 88's had those changes. Funny thing is that we've got a few of new 88 OEM nylon bushings on hand and I was wondering why they don't fit the 87 rack..

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 07-11-2010).]