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Duplicolor Paint Shop paint by thefredman
Started on: 04-24-2010 07:56 AM
Replies: 48
Last post by: NightMare Cruiser on 05-03-2010 11:13 AM
thefredman
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Report this Post04-24-2010 07:56 AM Click Here to See the Profile for thefredmanClick Here to Email thefredmanSend a Private Message to thefredmanDirect Link to This Post

Has anyone used this paint? If so..............did you have to use a flex agent? Did you use the Paint shop primer? How much paint did you use? Any help would be appreciated........thanks Steve (thefredman)

[This message has been edited by thefredman (edited 04-25-2010).]

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Arns85GT
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Report this Post04-24-2010 08:17 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Arns85GTClick Here to Email Arns85GTSend a Private Message to Arns85GTDirect Link to This Post

I have only used the spray balm but I will be using their stuff in my spray gun.

It is lacquer. The primer is standard primer and when I paint it I'll be using their primer. The products are formulated to work together, however, any standard primer will work.

The nice thing about laquer is that it is forgiving. If you get a run or orange peel, you can wet sand it out and spray right over. The new paint blends with the old.

The downside of laquer is the slower cure time. I have been using laquer for my custom guitars for years. I really prefer it over urethane. Hope this helps

Arn

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Report this Post04-24-2010 08:33 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroFanatic13Click Here to Email FieroFanatic13Send a Private Message to FieroFanatic13Direct Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Arns85GT:
...

The nice thing about laquer is that it is forgiving. If you get a run or orange peel, you can wet sand it out and spray right over. The new paint blends with the old.

The downside of laquer is the slower cure time. I have been using laquer for my custom guitars for years. I really prefer it over urethane. Hope this helps

Arn


What about orange peel, etc.? Does that depend more on the experience of the person holding the spray gun?

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thefredman
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Report this Post04-24-2010 09:18 AM Click Here to See the Profile for thefredmanClick Here to Email thefredmanSend a Private Message to thefredmanDirect Link to This Post

thanks arn........is there any need to add a flex agent?

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My04gt
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Report this Post04-24-2010 09:59 AM Click Here to See the Profile for My04gtClick Here to Email My04gtSend a Private Message to My04gtDirect Link to This Post

only if you use new panels that have not been painted. just sand every thing really good

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Arns85GT
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Report this Post04-24-2010 10:24 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Arns85GTClick Here to Email Arns85GTSend a Private Message to Arns85GTDirect Link to This Post

The flex agent helps on those springy plastic bumper panels. I haven't found the need for it, but I can see where the rear bumper and nose could use it.

Orange peel comes with using a heavier than desirable viscosity with a heavy hand on the gun. The Duplicolor is supposed to be pre-mixed so I'd simply follow their instructions. Light coats only. Remember that lacquer finish melds into the previous laquer coats so there is not problem using a "build up" kind of paint job.

Arn

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rogergarrison
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Report this Post04-24-2010 11:03 AM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonClick Here to Email rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonDirect Link to This Post

I use it and like it a lot myself. Ive always and still use laquer primer. All enamels tend to orange peel more than laquer because laquer is thinned a lot more than enamel. My urathane clear thins down 1 part thinner to 4 parts clear. Laquer is thinned usually the opposite 4 parts thinner to one part paint. Thats why it generally takes more coats for coverage. Laquers good advantage is its never time sensitive. You can put on a couple of coats and stop for a week and come right back and put on more. You can clear it a week after the color if you want and it will always melt right back in. Old customizers used to put on like 10 coats of clear and let it set for months, color sand it and do 10 more always letting it dry out for months. Sometimes took a year to do an elaborate custom job. You can always go back over it with no possibility of it having a reaction. I can paint a car I just got just to get it on the road, then do body mods and blend in the paint in each of those places as I go and it will always look fresh all over. For really flexible parts like bumper covers you should use Flex so that it wont crack putting it back together and bending it around. Laquer is brittle when its dry, but not so much that a hard body panel made of ABS, SMC or fibeglass would crack it. It also does chip easier from stones. The bad thing is since EPA determined laquer is harmful to health, you have a hard time finding any actual auto colors...most are just generic. Some speciallty repo suppliers do have it though. I get any factory Corvette color for any year Corvette if I need it....usually from Eklers. Laquer does need to be at least buffed out, because its so thinned it will not dry glossy most of the time. I have got it exactly right a few times where it looked like glass on a part. For a do it yourselfer I think its great, because like I say, you can work and stop anytime you need to for any length of time and any overspray in your garage is just dust and wipes right off. Hardened paint will stick to anything within 100' or more and you wont get it off without sanding it. Doing a laquer repair, I only need 18" of masking around the place im painting. With hardened paint, I wrap the whole car in a plastic bag and only cut out the area to paint. IF I could still just order laquer from local supplier for any car, Id still be using it on everything.

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joshh44
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Report this Post04-24-2010 11:16 AM Click Here to See the Profile for joshh44Send a Private Message to joshh44Direct Link to This Post

i think im going to paint my car with laquer paint i like the sounds of it! do afew coats one week. and do another couple coats when you have more free time
is it more expensive or about the same?
it sounds more expensive being a laquer. but i could be wrong..

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Arns85GT
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Report this Post04-24-2010 11:28 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Arns85GTClick Here to Email Arns85GTSend a Private Message to Arns85GTDirect Link to This Post

Expensive compared to what? I did my GT with Nason Urethane and when I made mistakes, it took allot of wet sanding and I had to repaint the whole panel. I couldn't spot repair worth a hang. The lacquer works out to be cheaper IMHO.

Arn

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Report this Post04-24-2010 11:38 AM Click Here to See the Profile for joshh44Send a Private Message to joshh44Direct Link to This Post

your avarage auto paint. sorry about that. forgot to add that in there. thought i did... guess now :P
i dont have alot of knowledge with paint. to me. paint is paint. not to sure what paint is better then others. what is what used for kinda thing. so im learning stuff as i go type of deal.
i just been painting parts on my fiero.(a-arms and suspension stuff) with black engine enamel. i figured if its ment for an engine. should be good for other parts to

i dont want to do any rattle can paint job. i also was thinking about doing the $50 paint job and use a roller. but that seems to be aLOT of sanding and would take forever. my arms would be dead
After all that sanding.

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Report this Post04-24-2010 12:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jasedudeClick Here to Email jasedudeSend a Private Message to jasedudeDirect Link to This Post

Im Currently Painting my car with paint shop. For me, the primer went on very orange pealy, though it could be due to my poor beginner technique. Luckily You can sand the primer smooth - which you should do anyway, the color will bind better. I did one head light cover, but I botched it by painting over the orange peeled primer...but thats why you practice on small things :-D. Looks wise though, the paint is pretty glossy without any kind of buffing or anything - though by buffing you can get it to a glass finish. Oh...I went for Give-Me-A-Ticket-Red...it looks nice :-D

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thefredman
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Report this Post04-24-2010 12:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for thefredmanClick Here to Email thefredmanSend a Private Message to thefredmanDirect Link to This Post

Lot of good information here.............my car is already red......are you gonna do the clear coat from Duplicolor as well? Right now I'm just sanding, but getting closer! I have a Devilbliss gun....gravity fed. What kind of gun are you all using thanks guys!

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rogergarrison
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Report this Post04-24-2010 01:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonClick Here to Email rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonDirect Link to This Post

Any paint is only as good as the prep, including prepping the primer. You can wet sand laquer in minutes if youi make a mistake...then go right on where you left off. Buffing it will bring it up a surprising amount even if it does look OK just sprayed. It should really dry at least a few weeks for a final sand and buff. It may look good just painted, but buffing will make the color pop. I have painted like a fender in laquer, put a heat lamp on it, buffed it within just a few hours. If a bug lands in your urathane clear...your basicly screwed. You just stop, let it dry overnite, remove it, scuff down the whole car again and start over with your clear. Only other option is to just ignore it and finish the car. Then come back the next day, mask off the entire car with a bag, remove the bug and just redo that panel. Like Id said in another thread, if you shoot it laquer, you can clean your gun out, unmask the car and drive it right on home even if its raining.

One other thing to be aware of using laquer....dont spray it when there is high humidity. It may cloud up, especially under the clear. This is because it dries soooooo fast on top, the moisture can be trapped under the surface giving it a milky look. To me, where I am, thats only a problem maybe 10 days a year. Let each coat dry before the next, which on a whole car at once is usually by the time you finish the last spot the first one is ready for the next coat.

Ive heard from some people that Duplicolor Clear has no UV protectant. I cant say yes or no, because I can find nothing on the cans to substantiate or refute that. I just know I havent had any problem with it since it came out.

If you do a coat or two one week, then come back to do more the next, all you have to do is re tack it...no sanding is required except to fix a mistake. Newer paint will go right on over it and stick just fine because it melts right back into it. Ive had cans of laquer in the cabinet for 20 year that turned hard. Just poured some fresh thinner in and let it set a few days and its good as new. Very nice for repairing a car you painted 20 years ago and need to touch up and saved some.

------------------

Owner / Operator Custom Paint and Body...
specializing in Corvette & Higher End Autos for 45 years
Ferrari, Mercedes and Porsche Body Repair Approved
____________________________________________

toys: '66 custom Dodge 'Super Bee'
pwer by 413 SuperStock V8
2009 Mustang Bullet Edition
1977 Cessna 172XP HiPerf

[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 04-24-2010).]

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Tha Driver
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Report this Post04-24-2010 02:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tha DriverClick Here to visit Tha Driver's HomePageSend a Private Message to Tha DriverDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by thefredman:

As anyone used this paint? If so..............did you have to use a flex agent? Did you use the Paint shop primer? How much paint did you use? Any help would be appreciated........thanks Steve (thefredman


I suggest you do a search on various paint types & techniques.
It's laquer: won't hold up as well as modern base/clear.
Yes if you decide to use it you'll have to use a flex agent in the bumper covers.
I've used it (a friend had some & I painted his bike): it's way too thick from the can & goes on very orange-peely. As much sanding if not more than urethane clear to make it look right.
And... the laquer primer doesn't stick near as well as PPG epoxy primer.
So the bottom line is don't use it unless you like doing as much work as better paints (urethane base/clear) for a job that needs MUCH more upkeep & won't last as long.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

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Arns85GT
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Report this Post04-24-2010 04:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Arns85GTClick Here to Email Arns85GTSend a Private Message to Arns85GTDirect Link to This Post

I realize that 2 part primer is all the rage. Especially with guys who are restoring old metal. It is hard stuff and works well.

However, we are talking plastic panels here. No need for something as expensive and finicky as epoxy primer. Regular primer you buy in any hardware store is actually lacquer primer. Read the ingredients. It thins with lacquer thinner, not varsol.

Like Roger stated above, it is far easier to work with. Unlike old nitrocellulose lacquer, modern lacquers do not yellow or discolor. For an amateur to paint a car, without the benefit of a professional paint booth, the laquer is the safer alternative. Any regular dust mask is all you need, not a full respirator mask as with some paints. Cleanup is easier, spraying is easier, touchups are waaayyyy easier. A guy who is doing this on a weekend can put down two or three coats on Saturday, and drive it on Sunday, then all week, and then clear coat the next weekend, or, if need be, wet sand and re-coat.

It is all well and good to expect a home mechanic to use professional equipment, in a professional equipped paint booth, with a professional respirator, spray suit and goggles, but it is really not a good idea.

I've used urethane to paint on a home project, and just like Roger says, a small mistake, or a bug landing causes hours of work. Not so with lacquer.

As for chips and such, sanding out a chip and recoating with the same colour is so easy with laquer, and almost impossible with urethane paints. Even doing trick paint jobs like a fade out or textured flames is so much easier with laquer.

The Duplicolor product is made for car hobbyists and home mechanics. It is not made or marketed for the professional shop. Any advice to a hobbyist to use professional paints, with their higher concentrations of pollutants, venting requirements, and need for a perfect spray job is errant IMHO.

Arn

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Tha Driver
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Report this Post04-24-2010 05:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tha DriverClick Here to visit Tha Driver's HomePageSend a Private Message to Tha DriverDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Arns85GT:

I realize that 2 part primer is all the rage. Especially with guys who are restoring old metal. It is hard stuff and works well.

However, we are talking plastic panels here. No need for something as expensive and finicky as epoxy primer. Regular primer you buy in any hardware store is actually lacquer primer. Read the ingredients. It thins with lacquer thinner, not varsol.

Like Roger stated above, it is far easier to work with. Unlike old nitrocellulose lacquer, modern lacquers do not yellow or discolor. For an amateur to paint a car, without the benefit of a professional paint booth, the laquer is the safer alternative. Any regular dust mask is all you need, not a full respirator mask as with some paints. Cleanup is easier, spraying is easier, touchups are waaayyyy easier. A guy who is doing this on a weekend can put down two or three coats on Saturday, and drive it on Sunday, then all week, and then clear coat the next weekend, or, if need be, wet sand and re-coat.

It is all well and good to expect a home mechanic to use professional equipment, in a professional equipped paint booth, with a professional respirator, spray suit and goggles, but it is really not a good idea.

I've used urethane to paint on a home project, and just like Roger says, a small mistake, or a bug landing causes hours of work. Not so with lacquer.

As for chips and such, sanding out a chip and recoating with the same colour is so easy with laquer, and almost impossible with urethane paints. Even doing trick paint jobs like a fade out or textured flames is so much easier with laquer.

The Duplicolor product is made for car hobbyists and home mechanics. It is not made or marketed for the professional shop. Any advice to a hobbyist to use professional paints, with their higher concentrations of pollutants, venting requirements, and need for a perfect spray job is errant IMHO.

Arn


I get your point, Arn. But the fact is that PPG epoxy primer is so far superior to laquer for adhesion, durability, & flexibility that I would never consider using laquer primer for, well, anything. Not even a go-cart. It's soooo much better for plastic panels.
I don't have a paint booth, & in fact paint most of the parts outdoors. I do realize that folks living in subdivisions are at a major disadvantage in painting their cars.... but to use far inferior products after ALL the work it takes to prep a car right for painting is just such a waste IMO.
Respirators cost about 20 bucks. Base/clear is about as easy to shoot as laquer: the trick is to use catalyst in the clear that dries quick. The base dries as quick or quicker than laquer & you can fix mistakes instantly. Yes bugs are a problem if you get them in the first coat of clear, but they CAN be dealt with (picked out with tweezers). The only real difference is it takes a lot more time & effort to sand & buff the clear urethane. For the longevity - well worth the effort.
No sense in taking a car apart or taping it all up & shooting it, untaping it & driving it for a week & then taping it up again to shoot clear....
And BTW, trick paint is just as easy with base colors as it is with laquer - maybe even easier. I never have any problems with tape leaving indentions in the base paint like you sometimes do with laquer. With laquer, each coat softens the previous coat much more so than with base colors.
Just observations from my ~40 years of experience. Your mileage may vary.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

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rogergarrison
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Report this Post04-24-2010 08:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonClick Here to Email rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonDirect Link to This Post

I did lots of many mutiple color paint jobs on customs. I can spray and mask dozens of colors in one day in laquer. With time constrictions, the very most basecolors I can lay in one 12-14 hour day is maybe a 1/2 dozen without leaving tape marks. All my airbrush paints are laquer...I can paint and mix a hundred colors at one shooting. Takes quite a while for base colors to dry enough to lay stencils on them without smudging them. Really hard for doing things like True Flames where you use a LOT of stencils. Things like shading colors works 100 times better with laquer than basecoat. Basecoats have way to many solids (thats what they are) to get a subtle change from one color to a next. They all look just like someone sprayed another color next to the first in my opinion. Choo-Choo Customs (tennesee ?) has done blended paint jobs on their conversions for years and my opinion is those blends with basecoat look like crap. Looks better with 2 similar colors, but like say red and silver looks like a drunk hillbilly did it with spray cans. There are many other custom effects that cant be done at all with good results in anything other than laquer....Vreeble, fishscale, photo lifts, marbling just to name a few. It does great woodgrain effects, but I have seen decent ones done with basecoat too.

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thefredman
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Report this Post04-24-2010 08:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for thefredmanClick Here to Email thefredmanSend a Private Message to thefredmanDirect Link to This Post

Well I see some mixed opinions..............Someone just told me, "its like anything else, you get what you pay for. Its cheap paint." I don't want to halfa*# anything. I plan for my car to be around for a long, long time.....many more sets of tires, fuel pumps, caps, rotors, brakes....etc! lol Stacey David gets paid alot of money to tell you something is good! That is a classic line....lol u who said that, knows who u are! I'm still cracking up!

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Report this Post04-24-2010 09:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for IMSA GTClick Here to Email IMSA GTSend a Private Message to IMSA GTDirect Link to This Post

Sorry to keep plugging the site where I buy all my paint, but if you want great prices and whatever type paint you desire (laquer, urethane, single stage), click on whatever color you like and it will take you to the page where you can select whatever type paint you like:
http://www.tcpglobal.com/re...nshop/rspcolors.aspx

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Report this Post04-24-2010 11:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tha DriverClick Here to visit Tha Driver's HomePageSend a Private Message to Tha DriverDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by rogergarrison:

I did lots of many mutiple color paint jobs on customs. I can spray and mask dozens of colors in one day in laquer. With time constrictions, the very most basecolors I can lay in one 12-14 hour day is maybe a 1/2 dozen without leaving tape marks. All my airbrush paints are laquer...I can paint and mix a hundred colors at one shooting. Takes quite a while for base colors to dry enough to lay stencils on them without smudging them. Really hard for doing things like True Flames where you use a LOT of stencils. Things like shading colors works 100 times better with laquer than basecoat. Basecoats have way to many solids (thats what they are) to get a subtle change from one color to a next. They all look just like someone sprayed another color next to the first in my opinion. Choo-Choo Customs (tennesee ?) has done blended paint jobs on their conversions for years and my opinion is those blends with basecoat look like crap. Looks better with 2 similar colors, but like say red and silver looks like a drunk hillbilly did it with spray cans. There are many other custom effects that cant be done at all with good results in anything other than laquer....Vreeble, fishscale, photo lifts, marbling just to name a few. It does great woodgrain effects, but I have seen decent ones done with basecoat too.

OMG! Yeah you're soooo good you can mask & paint hundreds of colors in just a few hours.
You can (or at least most everyone else can) fade base colors just as well as laquer. They dry just as quick as laquer. If you can tape on them, you can lay stencils on them.
Everyone that's doing true flames (except you of course) is doing it with base/clear.
Granted there ARE some effects you can't do with other paint. I'm planning to spiderweb the panels in my pickup & of course I have black laquer for that. Over basecoat, & sealed with urethane clear.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

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thefredman
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Report this Post04-25-2010 06:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for thefredmanClick Here to Email thefredmanSend a Private Message to thefredmanDirect Link to This Post

Wow! Weren't you two argueing on another thread? Thought this was a place to ask, learn, listen and respect other Fiero owners. I wouldn't want either one of you to paint my car. It seems you both lack professionalism!

For those of you who have offered some good solid advice.............thanks! Steve (thefredman)

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Report this Post04-25-2010 07:12 AM Click Here to See the Profile for engine manClick Here to Email engine manSend a Private Message to engine manDirect Link to This Post

this is a test panle i painted with the duplicolor candy apple red it looks pretty good even before sanding and buffing

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rogergarrison
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Report this Post04-25-2010 07:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonClick Here to Email rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonDirect Link to This Post

Ya in a full long day, I can do a whole van in murals which does have hundreds of different colors and shades, just like a photo. I didnt say a few hours, I said a long day. An example was a Star Wars van I did. The whole thing was black with a slight dusting of rainbow metal flake to represent stars. Then the whole van was covered with exploding planets, battling space ships and figures from the movie. I did that in a single long day. Also the New York skyline surrounded another van with the statue of liberty as the highlight. Those would be pretty boring done in a few colors not to mention looking like comic books. I love the way you twist things around to suit you.

Look, you can stop this bickering by doing one simple thing.....and this is what usually sets me off on you. Just answer people with what you do for a given question .... like I usually do. DONT just go right out telling everyone YOUR WAY is the ONLY WAY to do anything. That makes anything that anyone else does the WRONG WAY. Thats all it takes and I dont go back to bashing you for it. The one type of person I cant stand is an EGOCENTRIC that thinks theyre the formost authority on anything. You are not the reining king of paint you think you are. I dont know everything, and Im always willing to try or have someone show me something I dont know. I never say anything I dont have first hand knowlege of.... good or bad. If something works for me that dont work for you doesnt mean my way is the only way and vise versa.

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Report this Post04-25-2010 07:28 AM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonClick Here to Email rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonDirect Link to This Post

from the picture, that fender looks pretty good. BTW clear that chair and you have a custom blended one.....

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Report this Post04-25-2010 08:59 AM Click Here to See the Profile for couldahadaV8Click Here to visit couldahadaV8's HomePageSend a Private Message to couldahadaV8Direct Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by thefredman:

Wow! Weren't you two argueing on another thread?


Yes, they argue on every thread. As soon as one of them pipes up, the other one has to with an opposite opinion. Draw your own conclusion as to which one you believe and which one just sounds foolish. I have.

[This message has been edited by couldahadaV8 (edited 04-25-2010).]

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Pete Matos
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Report this Post04-25-2010 09:03 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Pete MatosSend a Private Message to Pete MatosDirect Link to This Post

Love the looks of that test fender ya got there, I have been reading this and other threads about the duplicolor paint shop paint and I am still up in the air about it. I am a professional cabinet builder and I spray Lacquer paint almost weekly.... It is about the easiest paint to spray and lays down nice on most projects we do. I have never sprayed automotive lacquer paint but as has been said before millions of cars came out of detroit for many years with that type of paint as well as countless customs and hotrods. THis is why I am at least considering this paint for my new fiero GT. If I knew I could paint it with the kind of ease with which we paint cabinets and moreso the forgiveness of the paints we use at work I would feel a lot better at painting the car myself. I used to be in the United States Coast Guard and helped paint the C-130 aircraft and even painted a few of my sportybikes over the years so I am no stranger to a paint gun but I have honestly never painted a car before. I gotta agree about the retouchability of Lacquer, we do it all the time on our cabinets and it is real forgiving and the paint DOES melt into the previous coat as has been said here. It does have its problems tho such as blushing or milking out if not sprayed carefully and in the proper temperatures and it can actually flash too fast sometimes causing bubbles and other issues. There are ways and additives to use that can help with that in our paints but I dunno about the automotive end of things. I would LOVE to see some pictures of cars that have been painted by average joes with some experience painting that have used this Duplicolor paint shop paints.

Roger, you mentioned a couple times now that you use and like this paint, could you post some pictures of cars you have painted with this paint so we can all see what a professional painter can do with it. From your posts it sounds like you have YEARS of experience with painting custom cars so I would imagine you do have some pics of cars painted with this paint.

The fellow that painted the fender could you possibly take some more pics of it after you get it wet sanded and buffed out so we can all see what this stuff can actually look like. I did a search on the net and found a lot of varying reviews of this paint some good some bad and a TON of them that were heresay from people who have never even used the damn paint. You have had the balls to actually buy the stuff and give it a shot or so to speak so I for one would be VERY interested to hear your views of this new paint system..... thanks and peace

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engine man
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Report this Post04-25-2010 10:53 AM Click Here to See the Profile for engine manClick Here to Email engine manSend a Private Message to engine manDirect Link to This Post

thanks for the comment on the fender and i am your average joe not a pro painter with a $500 spraygun i did that out side with about a $80 gun . it seamed easy to do once i got the spraygun adjusted it went on smooth i dint get any tiger striping so i give it thumbs up is it as high a qaulty as other paint maybe not but i think taking care of it it will last a long time

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 04-25-2010).]

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Tha Driver
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Report this Post04-25-2010 01:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tha DriverClick Here to visit Tha Driver's HomePageSend a Private Message to Tha DriverDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Pete Matos:

Love the looks of that test fender ya got there, I have been reading this and other threads about the duplicolor paint shop paint and I am still up in the air about it. I am a professional cabinet builder and I spray Lacquer paint almost weekly.... It is about the easiest paint to spray and lays down nice on most projects we do. I have never sprayed automotive lacquer paint but as has been said before millions of cars came out of detroit for many years with that type of paint as well as countless customs and hotrods. THis is why I am at least considering this paint for my new fiero GT. If I knew I could paint it with the kind of ease with which we paint cabinets and moreso the forgiveness of the paints we use at work I would feel a lot better at painting the car myself. I used to be in the United States Coast Guard and helped paint the C-130 aircraft and even painted a few of my sportybikes over the years so I am no stranger to a paint gun but I have honestly never painted a car before. I gotta agree about the retouchability of Lacquer, we do it all the time on our cabinets and it is real forgiving and the paint DOES melt into the previous coat as has been said here. It does have its problems tho such as blushing or milking out if not sprayed carefully and in the proper temperatures and it can actually flash too fast sometimes causing bubbles and other issues. There are ways and additives to use that can help with that in our paints but I dunno about the automotive end of things. I would LOVE to see some pictures of cars that have been painted by average joes with some experience painting that have used this Duplicolor paint shop paints.

Roger, you mentioned a couple times now that you use and like this paint, could you post some pictures of cars you have painted with this paint so we can all see what a professional painter can do with it. From your posts it sounds like you have YEARS of experience with painting custom cars so I would imagine you do have some pics of cars painted with this paint.

The fellow that painted the fender could you possibly take some more pics of it after you get it wet sanded and buffed out so we can all see what this stuff can actually look like. I did a search on the net and found a lot of varying reviews of this paint some good some bad and a TON of them that were heresay from people who have never even used the damn paint. You have had the balls to actually buy the stuff and give it a shot or so to speak so I for one would be VERY interested to hear your views of this new paint system..... thanks and peace

I've done cabinets in laquer too. Works well on them. I've also done a LOT of show cars in laquer - back in the 60's & early 70's when all that was available was that & acrylic enamel. But I've kept up with modern technology & the new paints & primers (& it's been a time-consuming Bich) & they are FAR superior to laquer for adhesion, durability, & flexibility.
I've also painted the Duplicolor laquer paint (when a friend already had it & wanted his bike painted) & it sucks.
I quit using laquer decades ago.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

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Report this Post04-25-2010 02:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tha DriverClick Here to visit Tha Driver's HomePageSend a Private Message to Tha DriverDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by couldahadaV8:


Yes, they argue on every thread. As soon as one of them pipes up, the other one has to with an opposite opinion. Draw your own conclusion as to which one you believe and which one just sounds foolish. I have.


Yeah roger jumps in & calls me a liar & I have to take up for myself. He uses laquer primer on freakin' Ferraris & can't blend clear urethane so he thinks no one can & everyone should use laquer primer (in spite of the fact that it's far inferior to PPG epoxy primer).
I just hate it when people here give bad advice that will cost the users soooo much time to correct (stripping all that laquer crap off their cars when they decide to do it right). RIGHT meaning that it will LAST.
EDIT: Of course not everyone follows that advice LOL.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

[This message has been edited by Tha Driver (edited 04-25-2010).]

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Arns85GT
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Report this Post04-25-2010 03:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Arns85GTClick Here to Email Arns85GTSend a Private Message to Arns85GTDirect Link to This Post

Engineman that 2nd last pic shows a fair bit of texture. It will take some wet color sanding to get it smooth. You might want to try thinning the next batch some. Like I mentioned earlier, light coats go on pretty easy and you'll have less sanding.

Just a thought.

Arn

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Report this Post04-25-2010 03:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Arns85GTClick Here to Email Arns85GTSend a Private Message to Arns85GTDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:



That chair is a nice blend job.

Arn

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Report this Post04-25-2010 03:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonClick Here to Email rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonDirect Link to This Post

whatever dude.

I havent done any complete paint jobs with the new Duplicolor. I just use the generic colors for small stuff that color is not that important, say motorcycle tank or fenders. I use the clear all the time to trim in edges and jams after putting on a basecolor. Ya, it works just fine over basecoat colors. I also use it on small stuff for repairs or dealers cars like new mirrors, moldings. Couple of coats of basecoat, then Duplicolor clear. I also use it when a job has to be done quick and good. A few weeks ago I touched up a scrape on a 30s Ford. It was just black, so used Duplicolor black and Duplicolor clear over it. Heat lamp dried it in an hour or two and buffed it out. Customer sat here and waited for it, and drove it home after I fixed it.

Yes, I use acylic self etching primer surfacer. It burns inself into steel and aluminum surfaces. Never in 40 years have I had a problem with it peeling off, or having paint peel off of it. And yes I use it on Ferraris, Porsches and Mercedes as well as custom cars. Older Ferraris, Porsches and Mercedes were all painted from the factory in laquer....some even nitrocellulose laquer.

No one except driver is pushing anyone to use anything they dont want to.

And for the 20th time. I can 'blend' urathane as well as you...I do as good as the experts sent here.....it just dont meet my approval when its done. It dont come close to doing a whole panel the way it should be with 1/2 the effort.

[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 04-25-2010).]

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engine man
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Report this Post04-25-2010 04:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for engine manClick Here to Email engine manSend a Private Message to engine manDirect Link to This Post

Arns85GT ya it has a bit of orange pael it real is more like egg shell but i used a $80 gun and to get a realy nice finish it will need a color sanding and buff . I have used some of the urathane paint on a race car and it did look good but i found it harder to spray due to it seems to be thicker when going on and slower drying so more chance of a run . I am just the average guy trying to paint im not a pro like these guy they know how fast to move the gun and how thick to put it on so that being said the duplicolor seems to be easier to spray to me .

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 04-25-2010).]

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Tha Driver
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Report this Post04-25-2010 09:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tha DriverClick Here to visit Tha Driver's HomePageSend a Private Message to Tha DriverDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by rogergarrison:


And for the 20th time. I can 'blend' urathane as well as you...I do as good as the experts sent here.....it just dont meet my approval when its done. It dont come close to doing a whole panel the way it should be with 1/2 the effort.



Jesus ****ing Christ!!!! For the last damn time - NO YOU CAN"T. Your blends SUCK. You even proved that in another thread (aimed at me no less) & complained it looked like like crap (cause it did). If I turned out work like that I'd QUIT & go to work for McDonalds. My blends CAN NOT BE SEEN - EVER.
~ Paul
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Report this Post04-25-2010 09:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tha DriverClick Here to visit Tha Driver's HomePageSend a Private Message to Tha DriverDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

Arns85GT ya it has a bit of orange pael it real is more like egg shell but i used a $80 gun and to get a realy nice finish it will need a color sanding and buff . I have used some of the urathane paint on a race car and it did look good but i found it harder to spray due to it seems to be thicker when going on and slower drying so more chance of a run . I am just the average guy trying to paint im not a pro like these guy they know how fast to move the gun and how thick to put it on so that being said the duplicolor seems to be easier to spray to me .


The trick to using the urethane clear (for the beginner & for outdoor painting) is to use a catalyst that dries quicker than the one they recommend for that temperature. Makes it dry quickly & you don't get so many runs or trash/bugs. It IS harder to buff out than laquer, but it lasts soooo much longer.
~ Paul
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olejoedad
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Report this Post04-25-2010 10:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for olejoedadClick Here to Email olejoedadSend a Private Message to olejoedadDirect Link to This Post

If not beer, then maybe get together for a nice cold apple cider?

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Report this Post04-25-2010 10:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for engine manClick Here to Email engine manSend a Private Message to engine manDirect Link to This Post

I dont know but i hope the OP has got help from this I know that the big thing for me would be not having any runs and if there are easy to fix . I know that urethane is better tougher paint and looks great so i go back and forth on what to use

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Report this Post04-26-2010 01:14 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Tha DriverClick Here to visit Tha Driver's HomePageSend a Private Message to Tha DriverDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

I dont know but i hope the OP has got help from this I know that the big thing for me would be not having any runs and if there are easy to fix . I know that urethane is better tougher paint and looks great so i go back and forth on what to use


When you get runs, you can sand them out using a piece of paint paddle & starting with 1000 wet. Can be a little tricky if they're near body lines or at edges, but it's usually easy enough if you're careful. After the 1000, go to 1500 & you're ready to buff.
~ Paul
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Tha Driver
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Report this Post04-26-2010 01:34 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Tha DriverClick Here to visit Tha Driver's HomePageSend a Private Message to Tha DriverDirect Link to This Post

I just want to say, I'm trying to help here. Roger has been calling me a liar for over a year & I'm getting sick & tired of it. Just because he can't blend urethane clear, & apparently doesn't know anyone that can, he says I'm lying when I tell folks how to do it.
Truth is, I've been successfully blending urethane clear ever since I had to on an AAR 'Cuda that got scratched on the 1/4 panel. That was about 20+ years ago. Having problems with the blend, I developed the technique that I now use & it works well.
Also, I don't understand why anyone would still use laquer primer on high-end cars when the PPG epoxy is SOOO far superior to it. I do understand him using it on used cars for quick repairs - & the fact that he doesn't have to clean the gun out after every prime (you can leave laquer primer in the gun 24/7). If you shoot it on bumper covers, you HAVE to use a flex agent & then it still doesn't flex OR STICK as well as epoxy does. There are just soooo many reasons to NOT use the 1950's technology.
With all the time & effort (& money) it takes to prep a car, I wouldn't use the cheapest possible primer on it for any reason. When you do, you'll regret it when you decide to do it right & have to strip all that paint & primer back off. Although, I frequently strip laquer primer that's painted over - with a razor blade...
I'm completely frustrated with having to respond to accusations & lies, & I know everyone else is tired of it too. But I feel compelled to defend myself. Sorry.
If no one here wants my advice, then let me know & I'll quit wasting my time. I'm just trying to help everyone do the best, longest-lasting paint job they can under their particular circumstances. I've been doing custom paint, custom fiberglass, custom metal work, mold-making, frame, & body work for around 40 years & - unlike Roger - I've tried to keep up with technology.
Sorry to vent; I hope you understand my position.
~ Paul
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olejoedad
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Report this Post04-26-2010 08:58 AM Click Here to See the Profile for olejoedadClick Here to Email olejoedadSend a Private Message to olejoedadDirect Link to This Post

Perhaps we are tired of the personal attacks that are intermixed with the advice.

He does it his way, his customers are happy, he is successful.

You do it your way, your customers are happy, you are successful.

It is beneficial to those of us that are trying to learn to hear about different approaches and different materials.

We learn nothing from the constant bickering about who's right, who's better, who can do a better job.

I am sure you are both very good, but your constant bickering back and forth make you both appear to be immature and petty.

Joe

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