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Duplicolor Paint Shop Job by jasedude
Started on: 04-06-2010 09:29 PM
Replies: 52
Last post by: Firefox on 05-30-2010 01:06 PM
jasedude
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Report this Post04-06-2010 09:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jasedudeSend a Private Message to jasedudeDirect Link to This Post
Well, After a considerable amount of research, the professionals seem to all agree, Dupli Color Paint Shop, as with any lacquer paint, is an inferior paint compared to anything else used today. But since I'm stubborn and cheap, I'm going to use it anyway :-D. Ill be documenting my experience from start to finish here for the benefit of everyone else, since I can't seem to find a thread where anyone else used it. I haven't settled on a color yet, but I'll have time to decide while I'm prepping all week. Pics as soon as I find my USB cable...

Oh, and color wise, I'm Leaning towards Either Blue, Silver, or Black, what would you choose?
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Report this Post04-06-2010 09:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for darkhorizonSend a Private Message to darkhorizonDirect Link to This Post
I have a feeling it wont be much cheaper than a low grade urethane. I can get premium line "350z blue" base color for $142, and midgrade clear for $95... I think you will be hard pressed to get one of the 3 paintshop colors for less than $70, and the clear for less than $80... You just saved yourself $60 to get a completely inferior paintjob.
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Report this Post04-06-2010 09:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TommyRockerSend a Private Message to TommyRockerDirect Link to This Post
But the lacquer is easier to use, so he is also saving himself some headaches
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Report this Post04-06-2010 10:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tha DriverClick Here to visit Tha Driver's HomePageSend a Private Message to Tha DriverDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by jasedude:

Well, After a considerable amount of research, the professionals seem to all agree, Dupli Color Paint Shop, as with any lacquer paint, is an inferior paint compared to anything else used today. But since I'm stubborn and cheap, I'm going to use it anyway :-D. Ill be documenting my experience from start to finish here for the benefit of everyone else, since I can't seem to find a thread where anyone else used it. I haven't settled on a color yet, but I'll have time to decide while I'm prepping all week. Pics as soon as I find my USB cable...

Oh, and color wise, I'm Leaning towards Either Blue, Silver, or Black, what would you choose?

I've used it. I painted a bike for a friend & since he worked at Advance, he got the Duplicolor. I advised against using it, but since he already had it we went ahead. Went on thick & orange peely (& I'm an EXPERT painter ). Never got around to buffing it out. He's since had another friend repaint it (was only about 4 months later). He hated the sanding & didn't want to sand it for me to buff.
I suggest you check out the Dupont Nason base/clear. Wouldn't cost much more or be any more difficult to shoot - IF you buy catalyst for the clear that dries fast. Will still need to sand & buff, but it'll last much longer. I used it on my BMW http://angelonearth.net/BMW.html . Prep it properly & prime with PPG epoxy primer & you'll have a good solid foundation for the paint.
I would go with either Blue, Silver, or Black. Just pick a color you like. Or Blue with silver stripes. Or silver with blue stripes. Or black with silver stripes...
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Since I gave up hope I feel much better.
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Report this Post04-06-2010 10:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for grkboy707Send a Private Message to grkboy707Direct Link to This Post
I'd like to see blue with silver stripes, but just silver would probably be easiest. I look forward to watching this unfold, as I am also very cheap and stubborn
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Report this Post04-07-2010 07:05 AM Click Here to See the Profile for darkhorizonSend a Private Message to darkhorizonDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by TommyRocker:

But the lacquer is easier to use, so he is also saving himself some headaches


Might be easier to mix.... but there is nothing easier about anything else.
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Report this Post04-07-2010 08:11 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Indiana_resto_guySend a Private Message to Indiana_resto_guyDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Tha Driver:

I've used it. I painted a bike for a friend & since he worked at Advance, he got the Duplicolor. I advised against using it, but since he already had it we went ahead. Went on thick & orange peely (& I'm an EXPERT painter ). Never got around to buffing it out. He's since had another friend repaint it (was only about 4 months later). He hated the sanding & didn't want to sand it for me to buff.
I suggest you check out the Dupont Nason base/clear. Wouldn't cost much more or be any more difficult to shoot - IF you buy catalyst for the clear that dries fast. Will still need to sand & buff, but it'll last much longer. I used it on my BMW http://angelonearth.net/BMW.html . Prep it properly & prime with PPG epoxy primer & you'll have a good solid foundation for the paint.
I would go with either Blue, Silver, or Black. Just pick a color you like. Or Blue with silver stripes. Or silver with blue stripes. Or black with silver stripes...
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Since I gave up hope I feel much better.


I agree with the Nason paint as I have used the black and red (three cars) and about to use the orange.
Goes on even, lays down nice and you have the choice to use clearcoat which I do.
The red is as close as you can get to the factory red of a Fiero.
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Report this Post04-07-2010 10:38 AM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonDirect Link to This Post
Duplicolor is already factory mixed and thinned. Its ready to spray right out of the can. A good laquer painter can lay it on as slick as enamel. Ive done laquer in black that didnt even need color sanded or buffed to be acceptable. Doing so though, does a better job. Its about $20-$25 a quart for colors and clear. Laquer does take more coats, usually 4 or 5 color and 3 or 4 clear coats. I use it all the time to spot in older cars that are finished in laquer. GM only used laquer untill they started the basecoat clearcoat in the 80s... ALL 60s and 70s GMs. Only exception were some trucks were enameled and a few models (ie early 80s Cutlass) used water based experimental paint. Most others like Ford and Chrysler always used enamels. One other nice thing about laquer is that you can ALWAYs repaint over it with ANY other type of paint anytime with no weird issues like crazing, lifting, blistering. If he paints it now with laquer, he can drive it an hour later, even if it rains, and if he wants a clearcoat paint job later on, all it needs is scuffed down....it dont have to be removed. I painted my Shelby Mustang one morning, unmasked it and drove it home at lunchtime. You cant do that with anything else unless you have an oven. Ive had people bring motorcycle parts (ie fender or tank) here and wait while I painted it for them. I recently repaired, spotted paint, and buffed some damage to a 66 Corvette while customer sat, watched and waited...then drove it home.
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engine man
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Report this Post04-07-2010 11:04 AM Click Here to See the Profile for engine manSend a Private Message to engine manDirect Link to This Post
I have tried the duplicolor candy and it sprayed fine just got not realy orange peal more like a egg shell finish for a nice shine it will need wet sanding and buffing but i feel that if you want a shine like glass your gona have to wet sand and buff any paint.
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Report this Post04-07-2010 06:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jasedudeSend a Private Message to jasedudeDirect Link to This Post
I know there are better paints available to me, and am aware of the many downsides I could be facing by using the duplicolor lacquer. But remember that being a teenager, I am always right and thus Im STILL going to press on :-D

First some "beauty shots" of the car. Considering She's Spent her entire life in Florida I would say the paint could be worse.











My Mom told me She wrecked it twice in the late 80's. I'm pretty sure the bumper isn't original judging by the red paint underneath, And during dis assembly I noticed the Fender and air scoop on the driver's side Does not use the same rivets and such as the passenger side. Here's the car now:





















Took roughly 6 hours to get everything off, I have the body manual but I more or less just took out bolts and drilled out rivets until panels came loose - and I bagged everything in Ziploc Bags with labels for where they go. Of course I'll still manage to lose half of the parts, but ah well :-D My's dad's mortified to see the car in so any pieces, so hopefully it all goes back together without to many problems. I am HIGHLY tempted to do a fast back swap, but finding a donor car in Orlando to get the parts from seems to be somewhat difficult at the moment, and on top of that I'm pretty stretched for cash, so unless parts fall from the sky, This car will stay a notchie...for now :-/ Anyway, tomorrow will be filled with everyone's favorite activity, Sanding!

Oh ya, has anyone put panels back on with something other then rivets? I'd like something that's not so much of a pain to get out - really, I hate rivets.
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timgray
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Report this Post04-07-2010 07:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for timgrayClick Here to visit timgray's HomePageSend a Private Message to timgrayDirect Link to This Post


Here is the problem with the paint shop stuff... the clear has almost no UV stabilizer in it, yes I verified this, I called them and finally got someone that knew what they were talking about. In other words, you will need to buff and wax it monthly and keep it covered or in a garage. I would shoot the clear twice to give you more thickness to deal with using an abrasive wax all the time to keep it looking fantastic.

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Report this Post04-07-2010 08:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

I have tried the duplicolor candy and it sprayed fine just got not realy orange peal more like a egg shell finish for a nice shine it will need wet sanding and buffing but i feel that if you want a shine like glass your gona have to wet sand and buff any paint.


I agree if you really want it slick and shiney. That was one of the hypes about urathane base/clearcoat finishes when it came out. Simple...great 'wet look' shine straight outta the gun. Wrong....lol. Urathane clear has very little tolerance between being slick and smooth and running. Most cases it has to be color sanded and rubbed anyway....never saved you anything. It does cut down on the number of coats though. 3 coats of urathane clear can take a ton of sanding....its like 20 coats of laquer

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Report this Post04-08-2010 09:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for engine manSend a Private Message to engine manDirect Link to This Post
I want to know if this helps the shine or what on a single stage paint for the last coat they are mixing clear and paint together is this to give a better shine or more durable? I know Maco and othere shops offer it
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Report this Post04-08-2010 11:45 AM Click Here to See the Profile for darkhorizonSend a Private Message to darkhorizonDirect Link to This Post
I forgot about the UV protection...Yes there is none.

I would be afraid leaving it outside in the rain/sun/snow for any length of time....

Again, there is no bonus to this laqure junk.. I honestly think you would get out cheaper with urethane... If you wanted to cheap out even more, you could go with a laqure based primer, but again, I would think it is not worth the cost and extra time to let it dry ( absolute minimum 2 day dry time on most laqure based primers, usually I wouldnt touch it for 2 weeks).
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Report this Post04-08-2010 12:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierosoundDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by jasedude:

...But since I'm stubborn and cheap...



Didn't see this thread? //www.fiero.nl/forum/A...070315-1-060339.html

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rogergarrison
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Report this Post04-08-2010 12:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonDirect Link to This Post
I paint all kinds of paint over laquer primer in less than an hour. I dont have a single problem.

Single stage paint has the clear mixed into the color. After it dries a month or so, it can be color sanded and buffed just like laquer or urathane . Its in the middle as far as upkeep. It dont take as much to keep it nice as laquer does, but does need more than urathanes.

BTW, yesterday I touched up a scrape on a fender of a 30 Ford that is unrestored. Its all original paint is black laquer. Guy is taking it to a local show saturday. Still looks brand new. Whats that.. 80 years old ?
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Report this Post04-08-2010 01:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for darkhorizonSend a Private Message to darkhorizonDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by rogergarrison:

I paint all kinds of paint over laquer primer in less than an hour. I dont have a single problem.

Single stage paint has the clear mixed into the color. After it dries a month or so, it can be color sanded and buffed just like laquer or urathane . Its in the middle as far as upkeep. It dont take as much to keep it nice as laquer does, but does need more than urathanes.

BTW, yesterday I touched up a scrape on a fender of a 30 Ford that is unrestored. Its all original paint is black laquer. Guy is taking it to a local show saturday. Still looks brand new. Whats that.. 80 years old ?


Painting over is one thing, sanding is another...

I would imagine you would use 1.5 gallons or so of that dooopliecolor crud...

For $110 I got 1.5 sprayable gallons of nason in black..I quoted out my buddies paintjob that I am picking up supplies for today, at $162 for 1.5 sprayable gallons.

That laqure crap is $120 for 1.5 sprayable gallons... soooo where is the bargin at?
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rogergarrison
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Report this Post04-08-2010 05:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonDirect Link to This Post
I never said it was a bargain. Ive never used more than 2 gunfulls of paint on a Fiero....thats one quart of color reduced with one quart of reducer (thats R&M reduction spec). With laquer you will prob need 2 times as much since its already thinned. So I figure I can do it with 4 cans of color, 4 cans of clear. You need no hardener or reducer so at $25 @ qt, that should be $200 + tax in laquer. As far as costs with urathane, depending on the brand it will cost $80-100 a qt for base color, $20 for reducer, $35 for hardener, and $80-!00 for clear. Im just going with an approx average. Some like PPG will be a lot higher and others like Ditzler and Nason a bit cheaper. Im not saying he should or shouldnt paint it laquer...im just arguing some of the myths about laquer. There are many benefits of each. If he does paint it with Duplicolor, he has to go with a generic silver. He cant get the OEM match. Most states, because of EPA are not allowed to sell laquer now. With waterbase coming on now, urathanes time is also limited . The tree huggers and Obama will push to outlaw it just like laquer.
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Report this Post04-08-2010 11:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jasedudeSend a Private Message to jasedudeDirect Link to This Post
Well, I went ahead and got my paint supplies today. 30 Dollars for a Paint Mask, 5 bucks for some cheap drop cloth, A 50 dollar HVLP Gun from harbor freight and of course, one quart of Dupli-Color Paint Shop Primer and Brilliant Silver (Ill buy more once I'm convinced the stuff will turn out good). I'm going to test shoot it on the hood tomorrow, as its a large flat-ish surface so it's the best thing to practice on. Duplicolor claims that this is for amateurs, so I can think of no better person to test this then me - Besides rattle cans this is my first experience with paint. Ill try to snap as many pictures as I can...Wish me luck!
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Tha Driver
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Report this Post04-08-2010 11:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tha DriverClick Here to visit Tha Driver's HomePageSend a Private Message to Tha DriverDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by rogergarrison:

Some like PPG will be a lot higher and others like Ditzler and Nason a bit cheaper.

Ummm.... PPG & Ditzler are the SAME paint/company...
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Report this Post04-09-2010 12:00 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Tha DriverClick Here to visit Tha Driver's HomePageSend a Private Message to Tha DriverDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by jasedude:

Well, I went ahead and got my paint supplies today. 30 Dollars for a Paint Mask, 5 bucks for some cheap drop cloth, A 50 dollar HVLP Gun from harbor freight and of course, one quart of Dupli-Color Paint Shop Primer and Brilliant Silver (Ill buy more once I'm convinced the stuff will turn out good). I'm going to test shoot it on the hood tomorrow, as its a large flat-ish surface so it's the best thing to practice on. Duplicolor claims that this is for amateurs, so I can think of no better person to test this then me - Besides rattle cans this is my first experience with paint. Ill try to snap as many pictures as I can...Wish me luck!

Good luck. But try a SMALL panel first; do one of the 1/4 panels. Once done, you might want to flex it a little & see what happens. Finish it out buffing & all, before you decide if it's going to work OK for you.
~ Paul
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Report this Post04-09-2010 01:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Tha Driver:

Ummm.... PPG & Ditzler are the SAME paint/company...



Ummm,. ya, one is high price and other is not. Just like Caddy is high priced GM and Cobalt is not. duh

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Report this Post04-09-2010 02:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for darkhorizonSend a Private Message to darkhorizonDirect Link to This Post
no clear?

I guess I wouldnt blame you, but that crap wont last a month out in the elements and still maintain any type of shine. What primer did you get (dont just say "primer" because there are about 3 differ types of primer)?
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Report this Post04-09-2010 04:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JackdanielsSend a Private Message to JackdanielsDirect Link to This Post
I was wondering about this type of paint. Glad to see some of you have experience with it.
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Report this Post04-11-2010 06:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jasedudeSend a Private Message to jasedudeDirect Link to This Post
Ill be honest...my first try with this paint has not been very promising. While it is somewhat durable - I threw some things at the panel to see if it would chip - it did not - I was able to scratch the paint off with my finger nail. The finished texture is very rough kind of like truck bed liner...Is this normal before the clear coat or should the base coat be smooth as well?
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Report this Post04-11-2010 07:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Alex4mulaSend a Private Message to Alex4mulaDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by jasedude:

...The finished texture is very rough kind of like truck bed liner...


I think this may be more related to that big part just behind the gun I learned very quickly that painting with good results depends a lot on a good equipmet setup that has many many variables. Compressor, sompressor preasure, gun tip preasure, gun tip opening/angle, etc. etc. I had good luck on some panels but I was not consistent on my setup because my total lack of experience. It was at that time that I decided to pay someone else to shoot. I did all the prep. Good luck.

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Report this Post04-11-2010 07:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for engine manSend a Private Message to engine manDirect Link to This Post
if you are getting alot of orange peal i would say more than likely the spray gun is set up wrong i did the same thing then set the gun up right and got good resualts. google how to set up automotive paint spray gun and what type of gun do you have is it gravity feed HVLP or what . you dont need the best spay gun but need somthing decent i would think i bought a cheaper gun for around $100 and it seems to do a good job .

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 04-11-2010).]

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Report this Post04-11-2010 09:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonDirect Link to This Post
The most important part to not getting orange peel since its already properly mixed is the sprayers technique. You have to have the right fan, the right fluid flow, air pressure and make your passes at the right speed. On Laquer, I set the fluid flow for the max, and hold the gun much closer to work with lower air pressure. That may or may not work for you.

I also realized you took your car apart for paint. Be aware though that laquer is brittle. If you paint your bumpers off the car your going to have to add flex agent to the paint for them only. Then be sure you remount them within a week or so. It will be likely to crack if you dont add it or wait too long after their painted. Flex evaporates out in a week or two. This is one drawback of laquer you wont have with base/clear.
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Report this Post04-12-2010 08:01 AM Click Here to See the Profile for darkhorizonSend a Private Message to darkhorizonDirect Link to This Post
Moral of this thread: Don't use lacquer!

Need to use flex agent on a specific timeline
MUCH harder for a novice to obtain even coverage / no orange peel
EXTREMELY limited color choice
No price advantage
Very limited primer choices, lots of sand scratch swelling and very long dry times.
More difficult to repair/remove
Less adhesion properties
ABSOLUTELY no UV protection

Side note..

What are you doing to prepare these panels for paint? You do realize that you have quite a bit of work to do before you just start spraying at panels right?
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Report this Post04-12-2010 11:18 AM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonDirect Link to This Post
Maybe for an amature Dark. If I could still get it for all colors and makes, Id still be using it. Ive never had scratch swelling problems like some apparently do. I just wait a few weeks, sand and buff and its done. On my own cars, I used to just run a buffer with compound over it lightly every spring for show season. I never use wax, but do keep them spotless with polish. There are many custom effects that cant be done except with laquer. I can spot some laquer primer on a spot, sand and paint it in 30 mins. The 2 part primers Ive tried take forever to dry enough to block sand without gumming up sandpaper. Little 2 hour jobs turn into all dayers. I guess its what your used to using. I used laquer from 1966-1990s and still do occasionally. I had a lot of classics that owners wanted redone in OEM paint, mostly Corvettes. They didnt want what I call the 'fake shine' all forms of enamel give. I can still buy all Corvette original colors in laquer from Eklers. Doing repairs on laquer jobs is a piece of cake...you never have the issues of previous paint bubbling or cracking under primer or new paint that you have with new ones. Ive even had urathane with hardener raise and bubble if I try to fix a mistake the next day on a few jobs.

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Report this Post04-12-2010 07:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jasedudeSend a Private Message to jasedudeDirect Link to This Post
It would appear I spoke to soon...I sat the panel down to dry over night - When I tested it by scratching it yesterday It had only been drying for an hour or so. Well I tested it again...the stuff is on there with no indication of easily being chipped off. Also note that it is a Rear Quarter Panel - So I tested it by flexing it, throwing it on the floor, throwing things at it...but it didn't seem to be damaged by anything...and this is without the clear coat on it. Additionally, my dad lightly sanded it with some 1000 grit and it took it down to a smooth surface texture - I am guessing though that the gun was not properly adjusted and cuased some issues with the orange peel...I will do more experimenting tomorrow, I still have a lot of primer and color left.

Oh...and the dupli color brilliant silver looks very similar to the stock fiero silver...Go figure.
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02greens10
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Report this Post04-12-2010 10:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 02greens10Send a Private Message to 02greens10Direct Link to This Post
I did my project truck with the championship blue and used the white color for a stripe. Its not super durable, but it does stick good. I kind of feel now it wasn't worth it because I could of bought better paint for a little more cash. It was also the first thing I've painted, and my spray gun was a POS. I have a lot more experience now so I'm going with something different next time.

I have had my truck outside for 2 years and in regular sunlight for a winter and a summer. The clear coat still looks like when I sprayed it on 2 years ago.

Pros:
ability to apitn outside if you don't have space. The three parts to the paint dry super fast so less chance of debris getting in there.
pre mixed, just be sure to strain it.

Cons:
not as rugged, not too many color options.
Price.
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Curlrup
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Report this Post04-12-2010 10:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for CurlrupSend a Private Message to CurlrupDirect Link to This Post
To each his own but at least your not rolling on Rustoleum. I know money is tight and some people see it as acceptable, and that is fine it is your car do what you want, bu tman I cringe every time I see someone doing that. So rock your DupliColor, it's not Rustoleum.
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Fieroking
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Report this Post04-12-2010 11:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FierokingClick Here to visit Fieroking's HomePageSend a Private Message to FierokingDirect Link to This Post
Lacquer has no flex in it. After the flex agent gasses out every rock or big insect that hits your car will leave a star crack in the paint. DON'T use lacquer on a plastic body car (Fiero).

Joe Sokol

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85 SE Daily driver with a 3.4 DOHC OBD II
88 Formula/GT 4.9 Allante Intake (My Baby)

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rogergarrison
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Report this Post04-13-2010 10:06 AM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonDirect Link to This Post
Its only a problem on the urathane bumpers. Laquer is fine on plastic body parts. How often do fold your fender or door The only issues ive seen with chipping isnt that much different than any other paint. If you hit something, Ill give you the laquer is more likely to crack. My 2004 Sebrings FACTORY basecoat on the front bumper is all chipped to hell, as is one spot on the back one where somebody bumped it. Didnt even leave a mark, but the surface is cracked about 6" long.

Dont get me wrong, Im not saying that laquer is better, just that lots of people bring up problems that are due to other things not related to the paint type. Im just saying that Ive shot both for many many years, and each has its own issues. Corvettes have always been some form of plastic and were always painted with laquer until recent models, so you cant just say never use it on plastic.
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engine man
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Report this Post04-13-2010 10:19 AM Click Here to See the Profile for engine manSend a Private Message to engine manDirect Link to This Post
? i dont remember any of the 70 firebird or GTO's having a paint problem on there nose and dint they use laquer back then

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 04-13-2010).]

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Firefox
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Report this Post04-13-2010 11:05 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FirefoxSend a Private Message to FirefoxDirect Link to This Post
I sprayed lacquer for a lot of years before switching to urethane. It was easy to spray and if done right can give you a beautiful glass paint finish. You have a lot of work to do with sanding and buffing after you finish spraying and you have a greater chance of wrecking the paint job because of a sanding or buffing mistake. But, overall, lacquer existed for many years without problems. I've sprayed lacquer over flexible bumper fillers using the flex additive and even after years my paint never cracked when flexed. If done right, you can make it work.

I don't use lacquer anymore as I only spray urethane now but just follow the instructions and you should be fine. If you need any help, just ask the guys that really know what lacquer is all about.

Mark the paint guy
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rogergarrison
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Report this Post04-13-2010 06:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

? i dont remember any of the 70 firebird or GTO's having a paint problem on there nose and dint they use laquer back then



Yes they had problems with GTO and Firebird noses fron day one with their Enduraflex bumper. GTO actually got surface cracks in the material itself. You could strip all the paint off and start over and it would still crack rather soon with a repaint. I was painting when GTO first came out with it on its 67 models. Back then we would strip it bare, put a light coat of filler over whole thing and handsand it to keep the cracks from showing. Of course if you bumped it, the cracks were even worse. If you look at any at a show with the right light, Ill bet you can see them. I cant recall ever seeing one without them. And yes all of GMs cars in the 60s and 70s were painted with laquer.

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Report this Post04-13-2010 08:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tjm4funSend a Private Message to tjm4funDirect Link to This Post
Just reading with some interest. I use lacquer to refinish my hand made fishing rods, and have reshot both fiberglass antennas on my boat. all out of the rattlecan, rustoleum lacquer. no clear coat. the rods are now over 15 years old, and get bent regularly some almost to a U, the antennas are 3 years done, always whipping and moving. Not a crack on any of em. the antennas are in the sun 9+ months out of the year, and still shine with nothing done. Guess it likes fiberglass, not plastic, which is the only difference I see here. (also I don;t prime them, sand to raw glass, spray, spin, repeat 30 minutes later)
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timgray
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Report this Post04-13-2010 08:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for timgrayClick Here to visit timgray's HomePageSend a Private Message to timgrayDirect Link to This Post
durability cant be tested within an hour. come back in 90 days to test durability. it's gonna take it that long to fully cure and harden.

If you used a catalyzed paint, you can get a completely cured surface in 24 hours. Although that's not 100% accurate. my urethane paint job on my bike outgassed for at least 30 days. my basement workshop that had only those panels in there smelled like paint for 30-50 days, and when I did a final sanding with 5000 grit to get a mirror shine the smell came back. Urethane really is not 100% cured even when properly catalyzed for weeks afterwards, the old stuff takes even longer, shorter if you can bake it a bit.

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Best RV, Camper, and Trailer dealer in West Michigan. http://www.cliffstrailersales.com and he's a fiero owner too!

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