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No archive info on 2.8 front main seal - any help? by Boostdreamer
Started on: 03-19-2010 04:48 PM
Replies: 7
Last post by: Boostdreamer on 03-19-2010 09:08 PM
Boostdreamer
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Report this Post03-19-2010 04:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BoostdreamerSend a Private Message to BoostdreamerDirect Link to This Post
I've got an oil leak from what I think is the 2.8 front main seal. The leak is coming from behind the harmonic balancer. I think this is better news than a rear main seal but I've never done either one.

Any tips, tricks, tools, parts that you can recommend? I've got the Haynes manual but I've not looked in it yet. The waterpump was recently (mile wise) changed so I ain't doin' that again.

Thanks,


------------------
Jonathan
1987 Notchie - recovering from surgery
I'm not a mechanic but I play one in my garage - me
Power tends to corrupt, and absolute power corrupts absolutely. - Lord Acton
Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not. - Thomas Jefferson

[This message has been edited by Boostdreamer (edited 03-19-2010).]

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Bloozberry
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Report this Post03-19-2010 05:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryDirect Link to This Post
You'll obviously have to pull the damper, but I'm not sure that can be done with the engine in the car. You may have to unbolt the rear cradle mounts and see if there's enough rotation of the cradle to get a puller on the damper. Don't pull on the outer ring... only the inner ring. Don't forget to drain the oil first though! Once you get the damper off, it's pretty straight forward... a large screw dirver is all that's usually needed to pry the old one out. Just be certain that you don't score the aluminum housing as you're doing this. The new one maye be very difficult to get on straight if the engine is in the car because they are very tight fitting. I've found that by wire wheeling the special paint-like sealant off the OD of the seal and replacing it with a thin smear of RTV that the seal goes in the hole much easier.
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Hudini
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Report this Post03-19-2010 05:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for HudiniSend a Private Message to HudiniDirect Link to This Post
The rear main seal is easy as pie! (If the engine is sitting on an engine stand) lol

Same goes for the front main seal. Mine was a PITA even with the timing cover off the engine. It's doable on the engine but you will be working with your head stuck in the wheel well. Just make sure it's not the oil pan gasket leaking.

Here are a couple of pics. The first is the front of the 3.4L timing cover so don't get distracted by the crank sensor wire. The seal is the same though. The 2nd is the backside.


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Hudini
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Report this Post03-19-2010 05:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for HudiniSend a Private Message to HudiniDirect Link to This Post

Hudini

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Member since Feb 2006
 
quote
Originally posted by Bloozberry:
You'll obviously have to pull the damper, but I'm not sure that can be done with the engine in the car.


It can be done but takes a bit of positioning. I have pulled the entire timing cover off and replaced it with the engine in the car. This requires removing the harmonic balancer and the oil pan. You support the engine/trans underneath with a 2X4 under the trans pan. Unbolt the front engine mount "L" bracket and jack the engine/trans until you have room to work. The engine/trans combo is supported by the other 2 mounts in addition to your 2X4 and jack. You might have to unbolt the dogbone too.
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katatak
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Report this Post03-19-2010 06:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for katatakSend a Private Message to katatakDirect Link to This Post
I've done it in the car. I did remove the 2 rear cradle bolts and lowered the motor (pivoted) a few inches for more room. It was not too difficult and only took a couple hours. One thing I did was to drill a small hole in the bottom of the inside lip behind the crank seal. Oil will puddle in there and eventually leak. The holes allow the oil to drain back into the pan vs setting in a pool against the seal.

Remove the 2 rear cradle bolts - put a jack under the cradle first! Then lower it down a few inches with the jack. You may have to remove an exhaust hanger or 2? I did not. I did not take the top bolts off the struts - the suspension will move enough. Loosen your alternator and remove the belt. remove the pulley - 4 bolts and then the center bolt.


Install your puller and remove the damper.

Get yourself a seal puller - "Lisle" or others make them and you can get them at most auto stores / Harbor frieght, ect. and pull the old seal.


Drain hole that I drilled.

Part number for seal

I also put a coat of high temp silicone around the outside of the new seal


Reverse to reassemble!

Pat

[This message has been edited by katatak (edited 03-19-2010).]

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theogre
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Report this Post03-19-2010 07:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreDirect Link to This Post
Before you put back the balancer...

Check balancer's rubber.
Bad?
Buy a new balancer.
Good?
Then check where balancer runs thru seal.
Groove in Balancer? Buy a Sleeve or new balancer.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)


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Bloozberry
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Report this Post03-19-2010 07:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryDirect Link to This Post
Great pics there katatak... I'd give you a "+" but I already gave you one a long time ago.
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Boostdreamer
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Report this Post03-19-2010 09:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BoostdreamerSend a Private Message to BoostdreamerDirect Link to This Post
Thanks guys! I guess this will be part of my next oil change. I'm gonna have to get the passenger side rear cradle acorn nut welded in place first. I broke it loose when I dropped my cradle for the swap. In case you're wondering, I cut a small square hole in the side of the frame and used a rear caliper e-brake arm to wedge the nut while I took it out and put it back. Perfect size and shape for the task.

Jonathan
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