Ok, so I did a search and couldn't find anything on this specific issue.
One day my '85 GT's slave decided to let a bunch of air into the system, so I replaced the clutch pedal, master cylinder, and slave cylinder. The slave came from Rodney. However, it still was VERY hard to get it into gear, as if there was still air in the lines (I bled the hell out of it). Looking under the dash, I noticed the pedal sits about even with the brake, and not 1" above it. (From what I remember the old pedal sat 1" above, and wasn't bent.) The reason is the banjo rod isn't long enough (by about 5mm), so the master is fine, it just acts like you aren't pushing the pedal ALL the way down if the banjo was the right length, and the banjo is stopping the pedal from returning fully.
What has me stumped is I measured the original with the new, and they are the same length. Sooo...should I just get the adjustable banjo and make it 5mm longer to get the full travel? Or am I missing something?
Thanks, Nate
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11:04 PM
PFF
System Bot
Feb 27th, 2010
Patrick Member
Posts: 39005 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99
Does your clutch pedal hit the floor before the clutch master reaches the end of its travel? If not, an adjustable banjo rod won't do anything for you. (And that's not to say that an adjustable banjo rod would necessarily help either way.)
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 02-27-2010).]
You bled it with the slave cylinder having the pushrod pushed up into the slave as to prevent air bubbles from staying in the slave? Others have documented that bleeding procedure on here and its what got mine working correctly.
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01:27 AM
Alex4mula Member
Posts: 7410 From: Canton, MI US Registered: Dec 1999
If your clutch pedal isn't coming back up high enough after you release it, then try looking fo something that might be impeding it's travel, like the clutch safety switch. It's easy to bump and cause it to prevent the pedal from returning. There's a whole range of adjustment on the switch too so it may look OK but is actually pushed too far in towards the firewall.
The slave travels about 1", which is about right for the reduced travel of the master. It is not a problem with the hydraulics, the banjo rod is physically stopping the pedal from returning fully, as if it is too short. I can remove the banjo, and the pedal has no resistance coming up to the normal spot (which then moves the pin the banjo attaches to on the pedal about 5mm past the banjo's hole.) I'm pretty sure a longer banjo will fix it, I just don't know why it is different from the original when all the measurements are the same.
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12:28 PM
Patrick Member
Posts: 39005 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99
The slave travels about 1", which is about right for the reduced travel of the master.
How is the travel "reduced"?
If your pedal presently doesn't hit the floor when you step in the clutch and bottom out the master, raising the pedal with an adjustable banjo won't give you any further travel at the master.
The pedal does hit the floor, it is just acting like the banjo is too short... the banjo is preventing the pedal from returning to 1" above the brake pedal.
If it has any slop you will not get the clutch to fully disengage. I had a problem where the banjo hole was elongated and there was enough play to cause this to happen. The fix was Rodney's adjustable banjo. That took the slack right out of the system.
Arn
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06:37 PM
Mar 1st, 2010
Patrick Member
Posts: 39005 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99