Ok my fiero is cranking over fine, and getting spark, but it doesnt seem to be getting fuel.. And im not hearing the fuel pump turn on when i turn the key to on.. I do hear the tick sound of what i believe is the relay switch turning on when i turn the key.. (my pops had his finger on it and could both hear and feel it.) So i checked the fuse, and its not blown. Only thing i havent done yet is change the fuel filter, which im going to do today.

So i decided to try to use the connector to see if i could make the fuel pump run. I was told by the people at the fiero factory that the connector is a 3 wire connector sorta under the battery. That it would have tan/white for power, black for ground, and pink for the gauge sender..

Well i found a connector, right where they said it would be, but it has 4 wires in it, not 3. One looks orange or yellow, hard to say, its pretty faded, one green, one black, and one black with white stripe. they come from a covered coil of wires along the back engine wall, then there is the connector clip, and then they dissapier up into the trunk/engine hood. So im not sure if thats it or not, and i dont see any other connectors or wires down there. And if it is the correct one, which side of the "clip" to i apply the power too.. If i unclip the connector, one side goes to that mass of wires along the back engine wall, and the other side up into the trunk hood. So which side goes to the pump? As i dont wanna send power through the wrong side and potentally hurt something.

Also my Fiero repair manual says there is a fuel pump tester that you can apply power too to turn the fuel pump on to see if its working. It shows it on the left side behind the intake, right by the relays.. Now i found a two holed plug dangling there that wasent connected too anything.. with A & B labled on its plug terminals. Is that the tester? So couldent i just hook some wires up to my battery and put them in those plugs terminals to turn on the fuel pump?

Oh, and i thought id mention that on my fuel gauge in my dash, the needle is pinned all the way right.. (past full) so i dunno if that might be mean something.

Man what a headache.. I promise if i can just get this baby to start, ill never let my fiero sit for a long time again.. I swear!!

[This message has been edited by Jonesy (edited 11-08-2009).]

The connector you found sounds like the decklid release/ajar light.

The FP connector will be just below the right firewall passthrough down near the heat shield and the connector will be yellow, easiest to get to from under the car usually.

You can run 12v to pin "G" on the ALDL connector to bypass the relay and run the fuel pump instead of disconnecting that connector.

im a little uneasy about messing with the computer. But i could give that a try.. Ill just need a long wire to reach from the battery positive so i can touch it.

The ALDL is behind the cig lighter cover, If you have the console out you can just use the cig lighter power since its close.

Well i decided to try the fuel pump tester that my fiero repair manual mentioned.. i connected a wire to my battery, and stuck it into the tester terminal (i tried both terminals as the manual said it didnt matter which one) and i didnt hear the fuel pump start up, so it must be toast.. I dont think i can replace the pump myself, as i can only jack my car about a foot off the ground, and i dont think thats gonna be enough room to pull the tank. So ill have to take it to a mechanic to do it for me.. I had one come into my store the other day (i work in a hardware store.) and he said to drop the tank and replace the pump would take about 2 hours, so it would cost about $100 - $125 if i supply him the parts.

Has anyone tried a fuel pump that the Fiero store sells? http://www.fierostore.com/P...px?s=52410&d=240&p=1 If they are good ones or not? They seem a little pricy at $85... And i dont think its a AC-Delco pump, and im not sure where to find a new one of those.. I can check the Advanced Auto down from my house and see if they carry them..

Basically this started out with me wanting to fix the breaks, but i of course wanted to start the car first, so i got side tracked by that. The engine cranks over just fine, but its not getting fuel.. So i think ill order my brake kits and fix the breaks since i can do that myself, then have the car towed to a mechanic and have him replace the fuel pump and get the engine started and running good so i can just drive it home..

So im gonna go ahead and order the stuff for the fuel pump at the same time i order the brake kits, to save on shipping.. I plan to get the fuel pump, and the strainer, fuel filter, and probably some new fuel lines. Is there anything else you guys recommend i get, or replace while im at it?

You will need to get the car up about two feet in order to drop the tank. There are only three things to disconnect and the tank comes down, connector (yellow plug near firewall), hoses (vent, return and fuel line), and the brackets under the tank (three) . You will need to drain the tank before dropping it down. If your fuel pump is toast the tank can be emptied by either a siphon or an inline fuel pump. Even a amateur can get this job done in about 2 hours.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

well i wasent questioning the difficulty of the job to change the fuel pump.. But like i said, my jack will only go about a foot off the ground, and i only have two jack stands too put in the back.. So im limited by space.

But thanks for the put-down regardless.

[This message has been edited by Jonesy (edited 11-08-2009).]

Jack up the car a foot,put jackstand under and lower the jack.
Put a block of wood on the jack,jack it up another foot.
Raise jackstands,change pump.

Lather,rinse,repeat backwards.

jonesy, i literally just did this 10 minutes ago. the price you were quoted sounds good to me, i had it done once for abou 400, parts included. (best shop in town, high $ per hour charges)

if the pump isnt coming on, but you hear/feel the relay click, it sounds to me like your pump is toast. you can get a good pump at just about any parts store, but walbro's are pretty popular if someone here has the part #.

have the mechanic check the tank for contaminates and such while its down, would suck to kill a new pump with floaties in the fuel.

quote Originally posted by DefEddie: Jack up the car a foot,put jackstand under and lower the jack. Put a block of wood on the jack,jack it up another foot. Raise jackstands,change pump. Lather,rinse,repeat backwards.

Pure Genius! I seriously cant believe i didnt think of that. But you think i can do it with just raising the rear? Cause i only have two jack stands.

quote Originally posted by ShaddowGt: jonesy, i literally just did this 10 minutes ago. the price you were quoted sounds good to me, i had it done once for abou 400, parts included. (best shop in town, high $ per hour charges) if the pump isnt coming on, but you hear/feel the relay click, it sounds to me like your pump is toast. you can get a good pump at just about any parts store, but walbro's are pretty popular if someone here has the part #. have the mechanic check the tank for contaminates and such while its down, would suck to kill a new pump with floaties in the fuel.

Yeah there is gas thats been sitting in there for over two years, so the tank will need to be cleaned im sure. Im reconsidering doing it myself now, but even if i do decide to pay to do it, my good friend runs 3 used car lots, and has a mechanic that does all his work.. He said any work i wanted done he could get his guy to do it pretty cheap. So ill have to see what he charges, if its decent, or cheaper than what that random mechanic quoted me, i might just get him to do it.. The engine hasent been started in over two years, so it wouldent hurt to get a pro to look it over.

Im gonna fix my brakes first though, since i can do that myself..

[This message has been edited by Jonesy (edited 11-08-2009).]

I've jacked the entire side of a full size gmc ext cab shorbed slammed 5inches 4ft off the ground using a single jackstand
to get the tank down and out. (in a supermarket parking lot even).

You can jack up just the back with two.

I need to clarify that I'm not sure how high you need to jack it up to clear,or if you can simply jack up the back end without getting a center of gravity issue that might not be safe.
So when it's jacked up and secure,push down on the ass end (or tilt to the side like I did with my truck) and see if it seesaws or where you stand weight centered-wise.

When I drop tanks now I drop them on a hoist,so hopefully my fiero will never see this method.

BE SAFE FIRST!

What about Cinder blocks? Iv got 4 or 5 of them in my shed, I could jack up the front, and position some cinderblocks under there to hold the front up, then jack up the back with my jack stands? You think that would hold ok? Iv seen people use them before, but iv never been sure if thats really safe or not...

[This message has been edited by Jonesy (edited 11-09-2009).]

Cinder blocks are not safe in any way, shape or form. Get a set of jack stands. They are cheap enough when you consider what might happen.

rgr... negative on the cinder blocks...