Those that have used POR 15 have not mentioned needing to use Chassis Coat Black. Did you find the POR 15 nice enough for frame and engine compartment painting? Or did you use "chassis coat black" on top of the POR 15?
Sparx22
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08:03 PM
PFF
System Bot
82-T/A [At Work] Member
Posts: 23043 From: Florida USA Registered: Aug 2002
Those that have used POR 15 have not mentioned needing to use Chassis Coat Black. Did you find the POR 15 nice enough for frame and engine compartment painting? Or did you use "chassis coat black" on top of the POR 15?
Sparx22
I've never used the stuff, but based on what I've seen from other people, the finished product is very shiny and black, similar to chassis black. It can and will also dull though.
I used it on my truck's trailer hitch last fall. What I had was not black though, it was a silvery grey. I sprayed over it with some black Krylon if I remember right. It needs to be protected from the sun by a top coat of paint if the sun can get to it.
------------------ RickN White 88GT 5spd White 85GT Auto White 99 F250SD 7.3PSD 6spd 1956 Ford 860 Tractor w/ Freeman Loader 20Ft Tilt Bed Trailer
por15 is very hard once it cures and it is shiny black. it's really tough and can take a beating, plus it cleans up rather easily. i haven't seen it dull though. i didn't use anything over the top of it on my car. i think i remember when i did mine reading in the instructions that it doesn't like uv [sun] exposure though. where i used this on my car uv exposure wasn't an issue. if it will be exposed to sunlight or if you're looking for a more factory look you need to paint over it with that chassis black. good luck with your project
I've painted numerous parts with it - steering knuckles, suspension parts, dogbone brackets, brake rotor dust shields, etc.... None of it has faded or discolored. Note however that none of these items are exposed to sunlight however.
I did however use the silver POR-15 to paint my ignition coil heat shield. It turned a somewhat-golden color due to the heat. None of the black items I've painted seem to have been effected by the heat, and they all remain black and glossy.
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08:59 PM
Blacktree Member
Posts: 20770 From: Central Florida Registered: Dec 2001
Yea, I just coated my Engine compartment with the stuff. Very very Shiny. It's very tough stuff. So that means don't get it 1. On your hands, or 2. In your hair (don't ask).
[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 09-24-2009).]
Did you brush or spray it? How long does it take to dry? Thanks all. sparx22
I brushed it on. But you just should throw the brush away when your done because it will dry rock hard and if you try to wash it off, it gets on your skin. I'm not sure, 5 hours? I just let it sit for the day.
POR 15 is a rust preventing metal primer not a paint. in that sense it is like any other primer. most people use it on bare metal parts as a base sealer for paint. it is best to paint over it if you want it to last. ask your local automotive paint store what they have. I got some paint that does the same thing but it is a paint not primer. the UV will not hurt it. D.
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08:50 AM
Oreif Member
Posts: 16460 From: Schaumburg, IL Registered: Jan 2000
POR 15 is a rust preventing metal primer not a paint.
Actually POR-15 is a coating, not a paint or a primer.
As for using it, I have used it on many parts on my car since 2002. They are all still glossy. They do not see direct sunlight. I coated a piece and tossed it outside before and within 2 weeks it was a flat dull black. The coating itself was still solid just the surface had dulled. Any parts that get direct sunlight exposure should be coated with a top coat or paint.
So if the area being coated will see direct sunlight it needs a coating. If it does not (like suspension, cradle, fuel tank, brackets, etc. ) then you don't need to top coat it.
------------------ Happiness isn't around the corner... Happiness IS the corner. ZZ4 Powered !!
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12:33 PM
R Runner Member
Posts: 3681 From: Scottsville, KY Registered: Feb 2003
I use it on my sway bar arms. It does turn out glossy black and very presentable. I imagine the spray would be better (no runs) but the foam brush works well for me. I always come back and top coat it with a POR15 black that is UV stable so that there are 2 coats and it will take direct sun light. Also, I make sure I do it when it is just shy of being tacky. That makes it flow really well and it bonds nicely. If you let the base POR15 fully cure first, the top layer streaks (unless you rough it up with some sand paper). I love the stuff.
I used POR-15 on 3 of my Fieros. I always topcoat, but I wasn't thrilled with the Chassicoat final finish. The POR15 always goes on smooth and hardens nicely, but the chassicoat stuff seemed to have brush marks in it. What I have done instead is use POR-15, then cover it in either a rustoleum product or an Eastwood chassis spray.
I just used POR-15 today on my cradle and we sprayed it it looks great !!!!! They make more thin one kind of POR-15 the red can is for straight over rust and it will fade in sunlight . But the one that come in a black can is just as good and it will not fade at all but you have to go to a good paint store to get it and it cost about 50.00 a quart.
Well I coated the engine compartment with one coat of POR15 yesterday, completed it around 5 pm. Stuff is still tacky at 6:00 AM today. It is very dry here in Tucson, data states POR15 dries slower in dry conditions. It applied it with a foam brush, and yes it sticks real good to your skin.
Hope it sets up completely soon! sparx22
[This message has been edited by sparx22 (edited 09-27-2009).]
Ive used a ton of it . I have also used the top coat. I love the stuff. My answer will be the same as everyone elses. If you have the catalog, there is a primer you can put over the POR-15 so you can paint it with any top coat. You do know that this stuff dries through moisture in the air, not evaperation, so you may have to give it the night to dry. be careful not to get it all over you, I had a container explode in my hands once and it covered me(see funny picture thread for picture) , I put some in a peanut butter jar and it sat in the sun, when I opened her..kabooom!!!
everything black is POR-15 on the upper and lower control arms I used chassis black over the POR-15
All that comes to mind while reading your story is: "TARRED & FEATHERED"!
It is drying finally. I have to say I don't like working with this stuff. It drips everywhere as you brush it on and does not dry fast enough so it gets everywhere. BUT, the product is the right stuff for the job so I will use it.
I read on the POR site you can skuff it up and then paint over it. I am going to do that with Nason 422-05 frame paint.
Thanks for all the replies guys. sparx22
[This message has been edited by sparx22 (edited 09-27-2009).]
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07:17 PM
PFF
System Bot
Gokart Mozart Member
Posts: 12143 From: Metro Detroit Registered: Mar 2003
yeah thats the one...LOL. I was not happy and you cant jump in the shower because the stuff dries through moisture, but I did get most of it off using paint thinner while it was still wet. Was not a good day...
well, ill never rust..got it in my ears ,eyes,nose, and mouth. On a plus note...sent the pic to POR-15 warning them what I did and they sent me a new quart! I dont know if it was because of the plastic or the peanut oils that may have caused this. We may never know, because I wont do that again. make sure you put some plastic betweeen the cover and the can so it doesnt seal the can shut forever. John
i'm sorry but I have to chime in. I repainted my whole bay before putting in my 3800SC and did about 50 hours of research on different kinds of paint. POR-15 is a complete ripoff. It is a "moistue cured urethane", which is baloney because ALL urethane is moisture cure. You are much better off using 2 part epoxy primer and a 2 part urethane top coat. POR-15 is a single part paint, and as auto paint guys have known for years, single part urethane is not nearly as durable as catylized urethane. Do you ever see anyone use single part urethane to paint the outside of their car? No, because it sucks. Same technology as deck paint. The best painters also use epoxy primer because it sticks and seals better than anything else. I mean the real 2 part epoxy too, the single part spray can stuff is also garbage.
I have painted 4 cars and learned my lessons. Stick with automotive epoxy primer and (probably flat) black automotive urethane and it will be far more durable and probably cheaper than those gimmick products. anything named "paint over rust" should just scream ripoff
Well my fears came to be today. As planned I first had to scuff up the POR15 so I could spray the engine compartment with Nason Frame paint since POR15 is so glossy and fades when exposed to sunlight. I did this with a Scotch pad and then degreased again before spraying. I used HF diluted degreaser and washed it off with the garden hose.
All along I have been suspect of this POR since it has taken so very long to dry. Sure enough in several places it peeled. Adhesion is $hit with POR15. Keep in mind I used full strength degreaser and power washed the area 3 times before cleaning it by hand with prep solvent.
So I just spent 3 hours going over all the POS oh, I mean POR15 cleaning it up. I hope the remainder of this crap does not peel after I get the engine back in.
So, hats off to you guys that have luck with POR15.
I have go along with "thisisausernamein" and I am in total agreement that this product makes no sense when other catalyzed products are available. I painted some brackets and such yesterday at 3:00 PM and they are still completely wet, not even close to being dry. These will be stripped and painted without the POR 15 as a base.
I found out the hard way, I would get a cat epoxy or any good catalyzed primer and do the job with material that meets the needs of the 21-century. sparx22
Update: It has been 26 hours since I put one coat of POR15 on the brackets and they are still not close to being dry!
[This message has been edited by sparx22 (edited 09-28-2009).]
your location is causing your problems. unfortunately it's too dry where you are for por15 to cure in a timely fashion. the low humidity level is causing your problems
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12:59 PM
R Runner Member
Posts: 3681 From: Scottsville, KY Registered: Feb 2003
Sorry you had a bad experience. I have found that surface prep is very important. I have tried POR 15 on just regular cleaned steel (not rusted) and it can peel right off. If you sand blast the steel, it will hold very well. That is probably one of the reasons they tell you not to remove the rust. It actually helps it stick. Yes, humidity does help the stuff cure. I have POR 15ed the entire roof of my trailer. It is holding up great and is even parked outside. I had to do 4 coats and it. The trick with that one was to use the cleaner, then use the metal prep exactly as instructed. Keep it wet with the metal prep for at least 30 minutes.
your location is causing your problems. unfortunately it's too dry where you are for por15 to cure in a timely fashion. the low humidity level is causing your problems
Too bad the POR people don't inform us about this in advance on the label. They also didn't have any concern for my difficulties. Jim
Too bad the POR people don't inform us about this in advance on the label. They also didn't have any concern for my difficulties. Jim
You are not alone- we used it on a 1942 Mercury project car and it peeled off in large sheets. I found that good old Rustoleum in the quart/gallon cans with some enamel hardener works much better than anything POR15 has. Adding the hardener to it makes it dry much quicker and more solvent/chemical resistant.
