This is so stupid, I almost felt like not posting it. I needed to find out the wire size and rating for the cable posted below.

I managed to get a hold of a local wiring guru and he was able to answer my question for me. However I am still going to post this so that maybe someone else searching for remote battery questions can see this and help them out. As pictured below I was measuring the outside of the housing which turns out is the WRONG way to do it. So with him on the phone, we measured just the copper wire core, and it is 10.4mm which means it is 3 ought. I have 32 feet of this stuff, and will use about 8ft for the Positive cable run from the front compartment to the starter. Then run a short piece from the battery to the chassis, then another short piece from the chassis to the engine.

I'll also separately run a single lead from the starter to the power block in the rear and maybe another positive lead from the junction block directly to the output terminal on the alternator. This should ensure that everything is getting a good ground and good power source. I know some of it is redundant, but when it comes to Fiero's and electrical, I like to have as my bases covered.

Don't worry I'll be using different wire for all the Positive leads.


Here are the pics of the cable I am using. I got 32ft of it as a trade from a friend that works with large 600v welders.



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85GT Soon to be 87GT,93 Eldorado 4.9, 5spd Dual O2 Custom Chip, Custom Exhaust. MSD Everything Capt Fiero --- My Over View Cadero Pics Yellow 88GT 5spd Full Poly Suspension, Lowered 1/2" in front, Corner Carver.

[This message has been edited by Capt Fiero (edited 03-03-2009).]

with the exception of the main power wire I used, (battery + to starter, I used 00 AWG) you described my setup that I have been using for about 10+ years.
Haven't had a problem yet, but I did add another ground. One from the transmission to chassis, and one from the engine to chassis.

Bring the ground back to the motor from the battery.
I did both - one off the battery in the front as you described above but also ran one back to the motor.
Can't have enough grounds you know.

I thought about doing that, seeing as the distance is 8ft, +2 feet for snaking around things, I have enough cable to go front to back twice and still have 12ft of cable to play with.

I went to the hardware store and got some of that clear flexible tubing they sale.
It's good and heavy adding a extra layer of protection to the cable. Pulled it thru with dish washing soap.
Ran the + down the passenger side of the tank and the - down the driver side. Do the routing before you cut leaving plenty on each end so you can be extra anal.
12k on the job with no issues yet.

The ampacity of 3/0 cable is at least 260 amps @ 140 'F. 3/0 cable is plenty for what you are doing. I use 2 gauge welding cable with a front battery and have had no problems.

I copied my built thread section on my remote battery cable below. However I wanted to ask a few people how they ran the power from the starter up to the junction block. I am thinking standard 4 gauge battery cable from the starter to the power distribution block then an 8 or 6 gauge wire from the alternator charging post to the power distribution block. In my old setup I had 3 separate leads. One from the battery to the distribution block, one from the battery to the alternator and one from the battery to the starter. Obviously I can't do it that way with the battery in the front compartment. Should I upgrade that distribution block? Seeing as it will now handle the power for everything?

This is just a copy from my build thread. However this is what I did.

We went to the local Home Depot to scout out some sort of conduit for the battery cable. I looked at different metal pipes, soft rubber / PVC pipes and nothing really seemed like a good fit for under the car, then I found this stuff. I honestly don't remember what it was called. Its extremely hard stuff, and took a floor jack to make it flex enough to get the cross beam back into place. However its also got enough give that you can bend it past a 90 degree ark over an 8" span and with zero signs of damage. It has an outside diameter of 1" and an inside diameter of 3/4" My 3/0 cable is just a tic over 5/8 outside diameter so this 3/4" was almost perfect.







I have not added any clamps at all yet to keep it up, its almost perfect and the only thing holding it up at the moment is the fuel tank belly pan and the front round cross brace. I am going to add a clamp about every 1ft to keep it above the heater line. I have also taped off each end of the housing to keep moisture from getting in. I may even get some large shrink tube and put over the ends.