I started to unbolt the cradle on my T-Top car that has been sitting around for 10 years plus, here is the problem I have encountered, the right rear cradle bolt was binding, very dry, it is turning but not backing out, stripped up inside frame rail, I cannot see if there is a Nut on top of this bolt inside the frame rail,? I took rear fascia off to try to look into the frame rail, bolts holding rebar are seized/stripped, gonna be a fight to get rear rebar off, but just wondering if anyone knows if there is a nut on top of the rear cradle bolt inside the frame rail ?

Sounds like the nut broke loose in the frame. Remove the tailights then the rear facia and you'll be able to access the nut. Hold the nut with a\ self adjusting faucet wrench and remove from below with an impact. Spraying before removal with PB Blaster makes it easier.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
87GT - 3.4L Turbocharged engine, modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

so there is a nut inside the frame rail then? broke loose ? size ?

It's welded to the frame. It just broke loose. Mine did this yesterday. I used a saw-zall and made a window. You can vise grip it, or cut it off like I did.

I used a cut off wheel to get access to the little bugger.



I used MAP gas, got it cherry red, quenched it with PB Blaster, cherry red again then good pair of vice grips and an impact wrench. I love MAP gas, it was my best friend during my cradle drop.

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jetman
Silver 86 SE 2M6 4-speed, with "check wallet light"
Now fortified with 8 essential slices of bacon goodness

I prefer not to cut into the rail. (just my preference) I spray WD on the nut through the plastic fastner hole that lines up with it.
I then take a small pipe wrench and tap it into a piece of conduet and reach in with the rear bumper removed and grab the nut then remove it.

So far has worked every time. You can then pull the nut out weld or have it a piece of metal bar welded to the nut so it can't spin anymore.


Here is a post with some info.
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/081082.html

[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 02-08-2009).]

Somebody wayback when came up with a unique method solving the "spinning" nut problem. they drilled a hole down through the trunk right about where the nut would be and then dropped a screw driver down through the hole. The screw driver would catch one of the ears on the nut and stop it from spinning.
I had to do it and it worked great but you do need a long drill and a long thin screw driver or rod

when I get the rear rebar off, no air compressor / tools, I'll try working a box end wrench inside the frame rail. I don't want to cut frame rail on the car.

Be sure and soak it good with WD or BP for a day or two. The more the better.

use anti-seize when you put it back together. I did about 10 years ago when I dropped my 85's cradle the first time. I have dropped it about 8 times since then without any problems (with the bolts).

[This message has been edited by IFLYR22 (edited 02-09-2009).]

most people do not have anti-sieze,, just coat it good with grease when you re install ,, of course it is advantageous to use some method to firmly attach the hat nut to the frame ,,this is the only area I have been lucky on my restore.
often simply drilling one hole in the frame will give you access to a bolt or nut,,open it up large enough,untill you can achieve remove & to soak in penetrant & to stop spin

Since you already have the rear bumper off... here is how I fix this issue:

Look down the frame rail and you should see the witch hat nut and bolt. There "should" be a sheet metal cage that keeps the nut from spinning. If it is still there, use a long pry bar to finish removing it entirely:


Spin the nut so an edge is parrallel with the outside frame rail. Then fill the frame rail with scraps of steel tube. The intent is to use the newly formed steel wall to keep the nut from spinning. It needs to be packed tight on the sides and from the top to keep the steel from lifting up.


After a good soaking with penetrating oil, the nuts will come off and look like this:


Here is what I do to fix this issue once and for all:

Jam a screw driver in the pocket. No cutting or drilling. To install use the weight of the cradle.

I reached into the frame rail today with a mini die grinder, bought one yesterday for $12.00 and a couple grinding stones, ground one side, turned it 180 degrees, ground other side, then smallest pair of vice grips locked on tight, cleared out all debris, very happy with the result and did not cut into the frame rail. Thank you for the posting to help me see through the issue. another person welded a large nut, onto the top of the witchhat nut, it can be reached with a long breaker bar and socket. that is what I am going to do before re mounting.

[This message has been edited by rourke_87_T-Top (edited 03-29-2009).]