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N* Spec Clutch/Aluminum Flywheel interference ? by IXSLR8
Started on: 11-15-2008 01:38 PM
Replies: 20
Last post by: IXSLR8 on 01-23-2009 07:28 PM
IXSLR8
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Report this Post11-15-2008 01:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for IXSLR8Send a Private Message to IXSLR8Direct Link to This Post
Have any of you SPEC owners had any interference issues with your clutch set-up on a Northstar 5 speed Getrag tranny?

I have Specs aluminum flywheel, stage 3 clutch and throwout bearing for the Northstar (all brand new).

I get a loud squeaking noise when the clutch is at rest (not engaged) and when its fully engaged (all the way to the floor). Whe the clutch is pushed in and the throw out bearing contacts the spring diagram with some engagement, the squealing completely disappears. I figure the throwout bearing is not making the nose as it is quiet when in the engaged position.

Anyone have similar experiences or have any suggestions?
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Will
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Report this Post11-15-2008 06:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WillSend a Private Message to WillDirect Link to This Post
Let's get your terminology straight.

When your foot is off the pedal and the clutch is transmiting torque, it is "engaged".
When the pedal is depressed to the floor and the clutch is not transmiting torque, it is "disengaged".

Now can you retype your question so we can understand it?
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IXSLR8
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Report this Post11-15-2008 07:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for IXSLR8Send a Private Message to IXSLR8Direct Link to This Post
LOL!

I guess your absolutely right. Now, here's a second try:

Makes a squealing/chirping sound while idling in neutral with the clutch transmitting torque--engaged.
Makes a squealing/chirping sound while the clutch is not transmitting torque--disengaged...with foot to the floor.
Noise disappears when clutch is partially disengaged...around halfway to the floor.

More info:
Clutch is difficult to put into all gears while idling.
Clutch is easier to put into all gears when not running.
Clutch slave/arm appears to be moving the proper length about an inch...and also worked fine before the swap on the stock 88 V6.
Transmission was rebuilt at a shop just before the conversion and has a good bill of health.

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Zac88GT
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Report this Post11-15-2008 08:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Zac88GTClick Here to visit Zac88GT's HomePageSend a Private Message to Zac88GTDirect Link to This Post
The splined hub in the disc may be installed backwards, or you installed the disc backwards maybe? My stage 3+ and aluminum flywheel worked fine when i had the getrag on my northstar.
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IXSLR8
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Report this Post11-15-2008 08:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for IXSLR8Send a Private Message to IXSLR8Direct Link to This Post
I'm pretty sure I have it in there right.

I'll double check and see. I took pics of the clutch set-up when it was going together. Hopefully I still have them.
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Will
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Report this Post11-16-2008 08:36 AM Click Here to See the Profile for WillSend a Private Message to WillDirect Link to This Post
SPEC let a run of clutches out the door, some of which had the hub installed backwards in the disk. Even if you put the disk in correctly, the hub could be backwards.
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IXSLR8
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Report this Post11-20-2008 02:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for IXSLR8Send a Private Message to IXSLR8Direct Link to This Post
Shoot! Your kidding me? I found three pics just before the mating of the getrag.

How do you post pics in the reply? I don't see any directions on the forum about posting pics.
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Will
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Report this Post11-20-2008 06:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WillSend a Private Message to WillDirect Link to This Post
Find this button at the bottom of the page:



Click it and download "Pennock's Image Poster".
Follow the setup instructions.
Post images.
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IXSLR8
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Report this Post11-21-2008 01:20 AM Click Here to See the Profile for IXSLR8Send a Private Message to IXSLR8Direct Link to This Post
Dang-it. Doesn't look like PIP supports those of us on the Mac platform, eh.

I'll see if there's another version out there somewhere.

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Joseph Upson
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Report this Post11-21-2008 09:45 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Joseph UpsonSend a Private Message to Joseph UpsonDirect Link to This Post
They are right, you're describing the same sound I heard more than 10 years ago when I installed my first clutch disc in backwards. It chirped while in neutral and was difficult to put the tranny in gear with the engine running until the springs in the hub finally wore down enough from rubbing against the flywheel bolts to stop spinning the disc. Eventually the friction material desentigrated from reverse rotation forces after having been used properly previously.

[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 11-21-2008).]

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Will
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Report this Post11-21-2008 10:14 AM Click Here to See the Profile for WillSend a Private Message to WillDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by IXSLR8:

Dang-it. Doesn't look like PIP supports those of us on the Mac platform, eh.

I'll see if there's another version out there somewhere.


Of Pip? no. You can use photobucket or imageshack, though.

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Dennis LaGrua
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Report this Post11-21-2008 05:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaDirect Link to This Post
Also check to see which flywheel bolts were used and if there is interference between the disc and the bolt heads.

------------------
87GT - 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
87GT - 3.4L Turbocharged engine, modified TH125H
" I'M ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

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IXSLR8
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Report this Post11-21-2008 09:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for IXSLR8Send a Private Message to IXSLR8Direct Link to This Post
Will, thanks for your patience, eh. Appreciated the info on posting pics.

OK, I used Photobucket for the SPEC pics of my stage III, flywheel and pressureplate.

Here's the link: http://s423.photobucket.com/albums/pp311/I-XSLR8/

You folks may have to see them up large to see if the disc is one of those runs that was incorrect by SPEC. I purchased the stuff about 1.5 years ago or so.

When I did my 3800SC swap, there were no issues with disc, aluminum flywheel or flywheel bolts on the Getrag. I'm sure that the specifications should be the same for either swap regarding flywheel and clutch. The only difference should be the bolt pattern on the crank.

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IXSLR8
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Report this Post11-23-2008 12:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for IXSLR8Send a Private Message to IXSLR8Direct Link to This Post
So, what do you think of the disc?

-dave
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Zac88GT
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Report this Post11-23-2008 02:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Zac88GTClick Here to visit Zac88GT's HomePageSend a Private Message to Zac88GTDirect Link to This Post
It's kind of hard to tell from the picture if the hub in the disc is backwards. From those pictures i would be more inclined to say that the problem is the flywheel bolts. With the standard size head on those bolts, the large washer, and all the individual washers they're going to be mighty close to the disc if not interfering with it.

Edit. I just looked at a picture of the flywheel side of my stage 3+ disc and the hub looks different from your picture of the pressure plate side. So your clutch disc appears to be assembled correctly. Take it apart and check out those flywheel bolts. Here's the picture for reference.

[This message has been edited by Zac88GT (edited 11-23-2008).]

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cptsnoopy
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Report this Post11-23-2008 03:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cptsnoopySend a Private Message to cptsnoopyDirect Link to This Post
Looking at your picture, I see you used the ring that came off of the stock flexplate from the N* (so did I) but you also added washers and bolts that appear to have thicker heads than the bolts I used. I got one of the first Spec setups that Will and GSXRBobby worked with Spec to make for the N* and at that time they came with bolts for the flywheel. I guess they do not include those anymore but the supplied bolts had thinner heads than bolts you would pick up at the store. So, there is a possibility that the bolts are rubbing on the disc. I have not driven mine but there is no noise from the clutch when I have it disengaged for engine start nor when I engage after the engine is running.

This is the best picture I could find of my setup. It is not a very good angle to see what I am trying to explain but maybe it will help.

[This message has been edited by cptsnoopy (edited 11-23-2008).]

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IXSLR8
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Report this Post11-23-2008 08:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for IXSLR8Send a Private Message to IXSLR8Direct Link to This Post
Thanks for your disc pic.

I see what your referring to with the flywheel pic.

I didn't have any interfearance with the hub when I installed the disc with the flywheel bolts. When I spun it on the centering tool, it spun freely. This is a 0 mileage clutch as I've not been able to drive it on the road because of the problem.

I'm in the process of taking the motor back out of the car so when I separate it I'll look at the springs and see if the extra washers are causing a problem with the springs, etc....

Thanks for your help, fine fiero friends.
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IXSLR8
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Report this Post11-24-2008 10:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for IXSLR8Send a Private Message to IXSLR8Direct Link to This Post
Got the engine out and tranny separated. No indications that anything is wrong. Stage III Disc was in correct, flywheel bolts are not touching anything...no wear marks on the springs or disc. Pressure plate looks fine. Clutch arm is not hitting the water log. Throw out bearing is fine. Hummmmmm strange.

I'm going to take it to a clutch disc shop and have them test the pressure plate.
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IXSLR8
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Report this Post11-25-2008 10:43 AM Click Here to See the Profile for IXSLR8Send a Private Message to IXSLR8Direct Link to This Post
OK. Upon checking things very closely, I looked at my throw-out bearing and pressure plate bolts.

1) SPEC sent me Allen socket type bolts with their pressure plate. When you look at one, they are not a shouldered bolt and they are shorter in length. I suspect that using these SPEC bolts, you can't have the pressure plate perfectly aligned and balanced. The plate will be a different balance everytime you take it off and put it on because there are no line-up pins in the SPEC flywheel or bolt shoulders to rely on for alignment. Stock fiero pressure plate bolts have a standard shoulder to center the pressure plate on the Fiero flywheel as my stock 88 does not have line-up pins on the flywheel either;

2) My SPEC throw-out bearing is Japanese part number: NSK 61TDB3001. When I compare the look of this bearing it corresponds to an ISUZU throw-out bearing for a 5 speed. If you look at the Fiero throw-out bearings on napaonline here: http://www.napaonline.com/M...0&CatId=8&SubCatId=7
you find that the Getrag 5 speed is different part # than the ISUZU throw-out bearing that comes in the SPEC clutch/flywheel kit I received. I'm running the 5 speed Getrag.

So, for those using a Getrag 5 speed, what throw-out bearing came with your SPEC kit and/or what throw-out bearing are you using?

Are you also using the Allen head style pressure plate bolts? I'm going to switch to my stock fiero pressure plate bolts for sure! They are longer and are shouldered.

What say you?
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cptsnoopy
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Report this Post11-25-2008 12:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cptsnoopySend a Private Message to cptsnoopyDirect Link to This Post
I am using an Isuzu trans, the Allen bolts and the throwout bearing supplied. I have not driven the car, only running the motor to play with the tuning. The clutch appears to be without noise and engaging/disengaging properly. I did not see enough slop when installing the pressure plate to be concerned with using the Allen bolts.
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IXSLR8
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Report this Post01-23-2009 07:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for IXSLR8Send a Private Message to IXSLR8Direct Link to This Post
OK, Here's the conclusion of the clutch issue:

1) Disc and pressure plate were installed correctly and were good; However, I changed the spec pressure plate socket head bolts to the original fiero shouldered style bolts;
2) Clutch fork was worn on one side. So, I welded it up and ground it down to the same specs as the other side of the fork so they push the bearing out at the same time;
3) Brand new spec throw-out bearing was bad so I replaced it with another new one;
4) discovered some exterior binding on the clutch fork arm. So, I moved up the arm as far as it would go on its travel and tightened it up.

Results: Problem solved. High pitch squealing went away and it shifts correctly now under engagement and disengagement of the clutch.

Thanks for all your suggestions and help.
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