Here's my brake problem & plans to fix it. Please let me know if I'm on the right track
Problem:
Left front caliper is sticking every now & then. When I apply the brakes harder than normal (ie: someone cut you off) the caliper won't release fully. I can feel the car pulling to the left, when I park, I can smell the hot brake pads. In fact, have seen them smoking. It is taking longer to stop, so it's time to take action.
Looks like you have everything covered, new calipers and hoses all around. Be sure to flush your system out and get rid of all the old junk in the lines and master.
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08:38 AM
Synthesis Member
Posts: 12207 From: Jordan, MN Registered: Feb 2002
That looks good. Looks like you have everything covered.
It sounds like just a rubber line and maybe the caliper slides need to be greased. You can try that fix for under 50 bucks (new line and pads), before spending all of that.
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08:52 AM
2farnorth Member
Posts: 3402 From: Leonard, Tx. USA Registered: Feb 2001
I would change the brake hose to that caliper first. I suspect that it is collapsing internally and acting as a check valve on release. If it's still got the original hoses all around it would be good to change them all. Indy resto's recommendation about flushing the brake fluid is deffinitly a good idea.
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10:04 AM
Electrathon Member
Posts: 5241 From: Gresham, OR USA Registered: Dec 2002
The only thing I would have changed is to get stainless steel brake lines. $100 for a full set is cheap and is the same or just a little more than the stock rubber lines.
105k miles & your caliper has been sticking to the point of the brake pads smoking, I would take a real close look at that bearing hub. That much heat could have cooked the grease and the bearings might fail. I know the '88 front is a sealed hub but you can check it for play, unusual noises and see if it rotates smoothly. It's probably going to be a more of a judgment call on your part. If you have the $$$ just put a new hub on it, at least on that one side. My '86 rear caliper froze and the heat ruined the bearing hub.
If you're going to go that far, replace all four hoses, and replace the metal lines too. Fiero Store sells prebent stainless ones. Ebrake cables might be good too unless they work fine already.
My 2cents....grease the caliper slides, use high temp brake grease. Dry slides can cause exactly what You describe....pad dragging/hanging up. Follow the Other advice given here also, but the 1st thing I'd do is grease the slides and if that fixes Your hanging pad then all You're out is the cost of the grease and pads.
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10:23 PM
Jul 13th, 2008
spark1 Member
Posts: 11159 From: Benton County, OR Registered: Dec 2002
Exactly! The problem is the left front caliper sticking. Focus on fixing that first. Replace the left front brake hose. Rebuild or replace the left front caliper. Replace the front pads (both left and right). Be sure that the slider pins are free and properly lubricated.
Don't complicate your life (and lighten your wallet) by "fixing" things that don't need fixing yet. Once your left front caliper problem is fixed, then maybe you can consider replacing other things ... one at a time.
[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 07-13-2008).]
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02:26 AM
PFF
System Bot
CoolBlue87GT Member
Posts: 8519 From: Punta Gorda, Florida, USA Registered: Apr 2001
Will start by changing both brake hoses first & see what condition both rotors & pads are in. Then grease the caliper slides and see if that fixes the problem.
Also will check the hubs, the smoking I saw was only twice, for a short period of time, (city driving).
Let you know what we find.
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11:52 AM
Marvin McInnis Member
Posts: 11599 From: ~ Kansas City, USA Registered: Apr 2002
Since you're going to have to open up the hydraulic lines whatever you do, let me suggest that you replace the standard bleeder screws with Speed-Bleeders or Solo-Bleeds. (I prefer the Solo-Bleeds from Earl's for their slightly better resistance to clogging, but either type will do the job.) For a small additional cost, they make it a lot easier to bleed the calipers and hoses quickly and effectively. I also recommend that you always cap the bleeder screws when you're through, not only to keep out dirt but to prevent corrosion as well.
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06:36 PM
Xerces_Blackthorne Member
Posts: 6163 From: Mertztown PA Registered: Mar 2008
125 for the loaded calipers is a bit pricey...I ordered both my fronts loaded from Auto Part International for 66 a piece. Both are Cardone brand with semi metallic pads. and the rotors are only 25 a piece through them. Gave me extra cash to order the KYB shocks at 20 a piece for GR2's
I had the same issue with the right front caliper (still do until I get time to get everything installed), but without the smoking. Takes much longer to stop, seeing as I also need new pads on both sides...But I can hear the right front clicking when I brake
[This message has been edited by Xerces_Blackthorne (edited 07-13-2008).]
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06:53 PM
CoolBlue87GT Member
Posts: 8519 From: Punta Gorda, Florida, USA Registered: Apr 2001
125 for the loaded calipers is a bit pricey...I ordered both my fronts loaded from Auto Part International for 66 a piece.
Are you saying 66 a piece, is that a right & left for 66, or 132 for the pair ?
The one's I'm looking at are 125 for the right & left together. http://www.calipersonline.c...n=VIEWPROD&ProdID=69 Detailed Description Fiero 1988 Right and Left Front Calipers. These are OEM New Old Stock , not reman. Loaded with pads, and ready to bolt on.
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11:09 PM
Pyrthian Member
Posts: 29569 From: Detroit, MI Registered: Jul 2002
Originally posted by RWDPLZ: If you're going to go that far, replace all four hoses, and replace the metal lines too. Fiero Store sells prebent stainless ones. Ebrake cables might be good too unless they work fine already.
much thruth to this. they are SHORT runs. like 2' & 4'. and - getting the old rubber ones off without breaking the metal line will be treat in itself - but - both of us are from the rust belt....
[This message has been edited by Pyrthian (edited 07-13-2008).]
The loaded front calipers from Calipersonline.com are actually brand new New Old Stock (NOS) from GM, right off the assembly line. They're not rebuilt or refurbished in any way.
FWIW...
JazzMan
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09:29 AM
Aug 3rd, 2008
CoolBlue87GT Member
Posts: 8519 From: Punta Gorda, Florida, USA Registered: Apr 2001
I would change the brake hose to that caliper first. I suspect that it is collapsing internally and acting as a check valve on release. If it's still got the original hoses all around it would be good to change them all. Indy resto's recommendation about flushing the brake fluid is deffinitly a good idea.
quote
Originally posted by Electrathon:
Start with the brake hoses first. It is likely the cause. A lot chaeper than replacing everything. If the brakes are worn out, then do everything.
quote
Originally posted by Marvin McInnis:
Exactly! The problem is the left front caliper sticking. Focus on fixing that first. Replace the left front brake hose. Rebuild or replace the left front caliper. Replace the front pads (both left and right). Be sure that the slider pins are free and properly lubricated.
Don't complicate your life (and lighten your wallet) by "fixing" things that don't need fixing yet. Once your left front caliper problem is fixed, then maybe you can consider replacing other things ... one at a time.
You guy's were right. I changed out the hose, the brakes work fine now.