So I don't remember this ever happening before...

The indy has been running a bit off. (another thread) And it might be that I'm just paying more attention to things then normal... because of my code 33 issues...

Well anyway, I was driving the car the other day and when I'm sitting at intersections at idle with the turn signal on an odd thing happens. The voltage gauge dances between 13 and 15 with each signal blink. Both right and left act the same. Now if I engage the hazards then it acts normal (boucing ceases).

I stopped in the driveway and checked it. I opened the door and noticed the dome light would get dimmer and bright with the signals as well. What on earth??? I swear the car has NEVER done this before.

The battery is new. It has new grounds and all connections have been taken off cleaned and tightened down.
Car running voltage b/w 14.8 to 14.45 with a multimeter directly on the battery. I checked it at start up and checked it after a 30 idle in the driveway with radio on.
With the multimeter on the battery, I tested with the turn signals on, then the hazards. I noticed NO change in voltage to indicate what the dash gauge showed.

It just started it the other day. Is this a sign that the Alternator is loosing the battle to age? Its stock as far as I know.

Or should I be looking someplace else?

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"I'm just a girl..."
1984 Indy Fiero Pace Car
1987 Red & Black Firebird: "RAIF" WEBSITE: www.redraif.com
OTHER CARS’ WEBSITES:
1982 Trans AM / 1990 Chevy Dually / 1976 Scout II / 1987 Nissan Pulsar

you can try the electronic flashers

edit - but the problem maybe a weak alternator, which isnt putting out much at idle

[This message has been edited by Pyrthian (edited 06-24-2008).]

My S 10 blazer, (88), does the same thing, as does my 86 Coupe. I think it's a 80's GM thing. I havent had any problems from the S10's electrical system , had it about 10 years now. I had the Altenater rebuilt a year ago. It didnt change anything except the battery charge.
Joe Crawford
Texas

More likely bad wiring someplace. Turn and hazard are connected thru slightly different runs in the harness.

It doesn't do it on hazard, which draws around twice the current as the turn signal would... It's probably not the alternator but you can get that tested just to be sure.

I'd start by going over all the grounds in the engine bay. You may also need to yank the alt and maybe its brackets to clean them as the alt case needs a solid ground to the block. If you can't yank the alt, an easy way around it is to connect a ground strap between the case and block. Make sure the strap has enough slack to move with the alt.

After that find the grounds in the front compartment (either side of radiator)
Then pull the tail lights and find the rear lighting one(s). Check every lamp socket while you are at it.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top of every forum page...)

Try adding some grounds to your engine. You'd be surprised what that will fix.

quote Originally posted by BV MotorSports: Try adding some grounds to your engine. You'd be surprised what that will fix.

Exactly

My '88 GT has "done the dance" with turn signals on since the day it was new. My '88 Formula (one year in my possession) does it too. I know others in our club who have mentioned the same thing. There may be Fieros out there that don't have the dancing voltage gauge, but it seems pretty typical from what I've seen.

John

Mine did the dance. It turned out to be the connector to the instrument cluster on that side wasn't plugged in all the way. (This was right after I took it out and put it back in.)

I got my fuel pump replaced and its quite loud and you can hear it get a little quieter when the turn signal comes on. The meter doesn't bob much at all, though.

i have sequential turn signals, so i see my needle drop in 3 steps.
been like that for over a decade.

I get the dance too, but not on the voltage gauge. When my signals are on, my tach needle dances up and down. It also stops when the hazards are on. Been like that since I bought it. I have also noticed that my fuel pump is quite loud when I am driving, and it was replaced by the previous owner. Come to think of it, my pump does get quieter when the dance starts.

The dance hasn't really affected anything, its just more annoying than anything else.

Anyone know if there is a higher output alternator on the market for our cars? I know with my eclipse it was 60A stock and I could install a 90A one from a Mitsu. Galant or a 3000GT...

I would bet this is because the hazards are ran directly hot from the battery. The turn signals go through the ignition switch (which any contact usually loses some voltage) and the volt gauge is ran off a circuit after the ign. switch also. I doubt this is acually a "problem", but if you want to fix it, start following a wiring diagram and check voltages at various connectors in line on that circuit. I bet you will find a voltage drop somewhere.

When I did my SC3800 I got rid of the ign switch and did a secure push button start sequence with relays. All my voltage problems disappeared.

Another good example is when I put HID headlights in. Running them off the low beam output wires, the ballasts would not fire both bulbs unless the car was running, I found a 1.5 volt drop at the High/Low beam switch on the column. Replaced the switch, problem solved.

Hope this helps.

MOBILE

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Member MN Fieros Forever
Self Installed SC3800/getrag. 13 years in Car Audio and Car Electronics Experiance........ 19"s.. w/ 13" Brakes all around.

I do have a small black wire that has been broken since I got the car. Its back in the engine bay where all the harnesses group together. I believe I found the other end of it. I traced it and I thing it goes to the tailight wiring. Maybe this is the problem... I will try connecting it tonight and see if anything changes.

[This message has been edited by redraif (edited 06-25-2008).]

quote Originally posted by redraif:

what horrible looking connectors......fire damage?

Battery acid damage?

I know we concentrate on the grounds but bad power leads will do it too (and more). Check for corrosion where the orange and red wires from the battery goes to the distribution terminal below C500 in the engine compartment, check C500 too for corrosion and check all of your fuses for oxidation.

The corrosion on the power distribution terminal below C500 has been the source of bouncing voltmeters more than grounds hands-down. After that I've found corroded connections in the C500 pins and then oxidized fuses.

[This message has been edited by TK (edited 06-25-2008).]

quote Originally posted by 2.5: Battery acid damage?

The cables are new as is the battery. posts are also new.

That looks like C500. That's not good.

What does the distribution terminal below that look like?

quote Originally posted by TK: That looks like C500. That's not good. What does the distribution terminal below that look like?

Problem is when I got the car nothing was mounted where it belonged. You are the first person to tell me this is the c500. I had no idea what it all was. It is not layed out like the factory stuff since the perivious owner detached and left things loose. This whole bundle of wires and conectors was loose from the firewall and floating around the engine bay. I did my best to stabolize it where i hoped it was safe from the exhaust.

Can you show me a pic of the distibution terminal so I can locate mine. I don't think its below that like its supposed to be. Or atleast tell me what color wires there are so I can try to match it up.

Thanks!

Yeah... It's C500. And it's burned. The entire assembly needs to be repaired. Fortunately that's more a time killer than difficult. (See the terminal article in my cave.) You'll need another set of C500 plastics and maybe a few spare wired terminals you can splice in place of ones that are too damaged to use. You'll need to carefully waterproof all splices.

You'll also likely need a fresh pair of cutters to carefully dissect some parts that are too fried to let the terminals release. Just buy a new pair before you even start. They don't cost much and you'll reduce the damage to wires that are salvageable.

The spliced wire I would guess goes to the ignition coil. For some retarded reason, GM put the fuse link for the coil power directly into C500. Whenever the link cooks off, it does a job on the connector and wiring around it.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top of every forum page...)

quote Originally posted by redraif:

Butt splices like this in the engine bay are only asking for problems - cut it out and solder the wires together and seal with weather proof heat shrink...

I had the same problem when I did my custom dash.
I did reuse the stock instrument cluster but the big connector that plugs into
the circuit board was loose, just as someone posted above and my voltage gauge
and my fuel gauge would bounce with the turn signals on.

I have to be careful here. That's an 84 and I am not familiar with the location of the connectors. Was C500 on the driver's side in 84? One connector you are showing looks like the fuel pump relay.

I might be misleading you.

TK

[This message has been edited by TK (edited 06-26-2008).]

quote Originally posted by Mickey_Moose: Butt splices like this in the engine bay are only asking for problems - cut it out and solder the wires together and seal with weather proof heat shrink...

I just did that as a test to see if the wire was in fact the ground that might fix the turn sig wag. The car needs alot of rewiring and the butt conector will not be staying... no worries... but that was not the sources of the prob