ive adjusted the brakes as much as they will go ive replaced the master cylinder 1 hose and 3 calipers and still nothing WHATS THE DEAL DOES ANYONE KNOW WHY MY BRAKES HAVE NO PRESSURE?
im going to try putting the old less worn pads back on the rear side so that both rears have the same amount of pad..... i have no idea if this will work
Could the fluid that you're using be the problem? I know its DOT 3 (which is correct), BUT could the fact that the fluid thats being used is SYNTHETIC have anything to do with it?
I know someone is an expert out there that may be able to say if it would make a difference.
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10:40 PM
chrishahn87 Member
Posts: 1584 From: East Berlin, Pa - USA Registered: Dec 2004
Could the fluid that you're using be the problem? I know its DOT 3 (which is correct), BUT could the fact that the fluid thats being used is SYNTHETIC have anything to do with it?
I know someone is an expert out there that may be able to say if it would make a difference.
The reason that I posted this suggestion is this: I asked an ASE certified master mechanic, who has over 30 years experience what kind of fluid to use in my truck. My truck is a 2002 Silverado, and I recently replaced the brake pads and rotors. Before I did the job (since im too lazy to check the owners manual) I asked this mechanic if I should use DOT 3, or DOT 4. His reply was: "Do NOT use DOT 4, because it is a synthetic fluid, and will make your pedal feel "squishy"." Those were HIS exact words, so dont quote me. In a way, it kinda seems like this "squishy" feeling is what you are getting, like you would have if you used "DOT 4" fluid, and according to what that mechanic said.
Good luck getting it fixed.
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10:44 PM
joesfiero Member
Posts: 2181 From: North Port,FL,USA Registered: Jan 2008
Im not an expert, but I have a pretty good knowledge of physics and fluid properties. Either fluid will provide pressure to the brakes in a properly set up brake system. The difference between DOT3 and DOT4 is merely its heat and deterioration resistance. I believe all fluids react the same from a hydraulic standpoint. You put 1 PSI at the end of one hose, and you get 1 PSI at the other end. The reason we dont use water or oil or trans fluid is heat, boiling point, lubrication, etc. Long story short you should not feel a difference in the pedal by using DOT3 as opposed to DOT4. Please someone correct me if I am wrong.
That being said, I would take another look at the bleeding of the brakes. It seems there may be air trapped that is being difficult to get out. Do you get 100% clean bubble-less fluid out of the bleeders? Every time? I know someone before mentioned how hard it is to bleed the brakes on these cars without a pressure bleeder, maybe that is something to try. If not, I stand by my previous statement about the different hoses.
-JOE
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11:12 PM
joesfiero Member
Posts: 2181 From: North Port,FL,USA Registered: Jan 2008
BTW I did want to add it is possible you got a bad MC. If it was a rebuilt one I would say you have a better chance of it being bad. Keep in mind a lot of "new" MCs from the discount stores are just rebuilt cores. If it is bad, however, you should have noticed it while bench bleeding it. I put one in a family member's 4 runner and went through no less than 4 bad MCs from Advance Auto Parts before getting a good one. When I tried to bench bleed it, it would never build any pressure. Good luck and let us know how it works out.
Like I said before, it is a royal pain to bleed the brakes correctly on the Fieros without a pressure bleeder. I've tried every other way. Jack the front up and bleed the back, then switch; one man bleeders; vacuum bleeders; stand on my head while I talk dirty to it, none of them work all that well on these cars except for pressure bleeding. You can eventually get the system bleed with conventional ways, it just takes awhile.
I have actually found that gravity bleeding works fairly well to get most of the air bleed, plus you don't have to do much work and you can drink alot of beer while yuo do it
to bench bleed brakes THERE IS NO NEED TO USE A BENCH
just bolt the MC in the car use the plugs and clear lines that come in the box with the new MC fill the MC rez and loop the clear temp line into the rez under the fliud pump intill the bubbles stop swap to the other plugs in turn and pump intill the bubbles stop
NOTE IF YOU SKIP THIS YOU WILL NEVER GET THE AIR OUT and will have a soft pedal as the MC is the high point and the air will not bleed out thru the lines to and thru the calipers
then hook up the brake lines and let them fill with fluid the hook the lines to the hose and or calipers and bleed the calipers be sure to get all the old fluid out along with all the air
BTW bleeding the system once a year is a VERY GOOD IDEA as brake fluid collects water and the water will damage the calipers inside and cause the lock ups stick cars should also do the clutch line at the same time
------------------ Question wonder and be wierd are you kind?
[This message has been edited by ray b (edited 05-23-2008).]
Okay, we are using sythetic dot 3 fluid we bench bled the mc using plugs there were no tubes? the mc built pressure fine bench bleeding it we have run 3 large bottles of fluid through no old fluid or bubles we bled the system 2 times we adjusted the rears then installed newer replacement pads (they scrape while driving) my EBRAKE works great now but i still have low pedle so, going to try driving it now
my former friend patrick says his wrist feels bettter after rubbing all the brake fluid on it bleeding the car for the last 6 hours
okay, the brakes are about 20% better and the ebrake grips sooner but still doesnt stop very fast it seems as i drive more they get a little better then again the fronts are carbomets and the rears are stockish replacement pads I still have no idea what the problem is im going to my autocross school tomorow anyways
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12:20 AM
skstibi Member
Posts: 298 From: Loveland, Colorado, USA Registered: Apr 2007
I would think that if you bled the crap out of everything they would work pretty well. I took both calipers off the front of my GT (along with the entire suspension) and the brakes work fine after bleeding.
My other thought would be a small hole in a brake line somewhere. Check around and make sure nothing is wet. Had this problem in my sisters '71 Bug. Another thing, Synthetic brake fluid makes things leak a lot more than regular. Same goes with motor oil.
::sigh:: we didnt realise we were even using synthetic untill chris hahn87 mentioned it..... i might run regular through when i replace the remaning hoses/lines when i get more $$
well i lost my class to the corvette by about 1.5 seconds i did alot better than last year and it was a hell of alot of fun driving the fiero with the new suspension Thanks to everyone here who has helped me fix my suspension and brakes
my brakes still are not 100% but i figure new lines/hoses and non synthetic fluid will fix that but thats for another day
[This message has been edited by antinull.com (edited 05-25-2008).]
The only time I ever had a "soft" pedal that went almost all the way to the floor before working was when I didn't bleed My brakes right. I had changed the rear calipers and not thinking it through I only bled the rears, figured They were the only ones I broke the lines to. 1st time I had to apply the brakes I felt it at the pedal, the brakes worked, just not right. I was on My way to visit My Parents who lived nearby so I just kept going and planned to re-bleed when I got home. I had already realized I should have bled all 4 but when I got to talking to an Uncle of Mine that was there visiting too, He's a mechanic.....said I had uneven pressure going to My brakes so that was the cause, just re-bleed them but re-bleed them all. The uneven pressure is what ate up Your right rear pad I imagine.....I use speed bleeders so I can do it Myself and never had a problem bleeding brakes with them...other than when I didn't do it right..lol...Doh!
