I decided to change my rotors and pad on my 88GT.

Simple stupid question. How do I get the pads out of the calipers? I have never seen them being held in by those two pins before on any other car I have changed pads on.

Thanks

Cory

yes those pins are suppose to slide out to get the pads out.

i always remove the bridge, it's easier that way.

quote Originally posted by Tom Slick: yes those pins are suppose to slide out to get the pads out. i always remove the bridge, it's easier that way.

Just slide right out huh? damn PB blaster is not even doing anything for me.

Yep, split the calipers by removing the two bolts from behind that hold the outer bridge to the caliper body. Pull the bridge off, the pins will stay either in the bridge or in the caliper body, it doesn't matter at all which way they stay. Pull the rotor off to get the inside pad. Pay attention to how the clips fit over the edge of the pad.

If you want to relube your slide pins use only Sylglide to avoid damaging the boots. With the bridge, rotor, and pads off it's super easy to get the caliper body off to do the sliders.

JazzMan

Great patience is required,,if you do not split caliper, these are spring pins,, the design is from an engineer who in a last desparate effort to warn the world(not sure of what) installed these in the fiero just before his move to ford.. I made my own tool from I think a 1/4 rod I hate these pins I drove one out but using a punch to drive them out damages the pin and the replacements are not cheap..you have to make a small slide hammer or a devise that pulls the pin out thru a sleeve .you can find the parts you need to build the tools at a hardware store
try to drive pin out a slight amount before using tool.lube pin before removalm,squeeze one end firmly with channel lock(made me feel better ha ha follow jazzmans advise
I was going to design a c clamp with a hole drilled in it to remove these but got them out after my lady friend performed druid ritual to remove sin
chilton manual has drawing of factory tool,just a small slide hammer,you must back up the nut with many others( you will see)
others will have better ideas,, my pins were tighter than I am with a nickle

[This message has been edited by uhlanstan (edited 04-23-2008).]

I put the caliper back on and then split the bridge. The pins stayed in the body... Big thanks guys.


Cory

+ for all (If I didn't already)

EDIT: The other wheels pins worked much better.

[This message has been edited by CoryFiero (edited 04-23-2008).]

ONE more thing.

Is this on backwards?

Doesn't matter, on the street slots have no effect whatsoever.

JazzMan

Alright. Let's pretend they are functional. What way would I put them on.

Edit: Or is there a way it will be better on the brake pad wear?

[This message has been edited by CoryFiero (edited 04-23-2008).]

This is turning into an 8 hour brake job.

I've got the rear done. The front is mostly done.

BUT THE ROTOR WILL NOT COME OFF. It is stuck at the wheel hub. I managed to break the outer ring off (because my old rotors were shitty) but the middle is stuck. I soaked it in PB blaster. Hit it with a hammer, and cussed at it.

Whats up?

EDIT: BFH and propane tourch.

[This message has been edited by CoryFiero (edited 04-23-2008).]

http://www.harborfreightusa...me=&SubCategoryName=



Be careful about beating on the rotor, that's a good way to damage the wheel bearings.

JazzMan