First pressure wash the wheel wells,then use armerall (spelling?),it will bring them back,looking new again.Yea,you could allso probubley paint them too.But most likeley the paint would eventualley,become dirty looking again,so you probubley wouldn't want to keep repainting over and over again.
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10:53 PM
fierosound Member
Posts: 15145 From: Calgary, Canada Registered: Nov 1999
Here is what mine looked like when I started restoring my 87 GT
Remover the liner from the car. Wear rubber gloves and use brake cleaner and a green scotchbrite pad and scrub them inside and out. Slather them with tire black or other protectant. If they are still oxidized you can use silicone spray that you can buy at a scuba shop. It seems to *penetrate* the plastic a little and restores the black plastic finish well.
Here's what mine look like after cleaning and treating them. (Outside showing, but the inside looks the same.)
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11:03 PM
FieroVin Member
Posts: 951 From: Raleigh, NC, USA Registered: May 2005
Here is what mine looked like when I started restoring my 87 GT
Remover the liner from the car. Wear rubber gloves and use brake cleaner and a green scotchbrite pad and scrub them inside and out. Slather them with tire black or other protectant. If they are still oxidized you can use silicone spray that you can buy at a scuba shop. It seems to *penetrate* the plastic a little and restores the black plastic finish well.
Here's what mine look like after cleaning and treating them. (Outside showing, but the inside looks the same.)
Nice Job
Thanks
Mines looked like this when I bought the car last year. This picture was took before I ever wash the car.
------------------ "So, let me get this straight, Your Honda has 1.6 liters, whereas my bottle of Pepsi has 2 ?"
[This message has been edited by falcon_ca (edited 04-21-2008).]
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01:45 PM
Alex4mula Member
Posts: 7403 From: Canton, MI US Registered: Dec 1999
Don't paint them! Once back in early 90s I painted mines red. Then they started peeling very quickly. Cleaning and dressing is much better. Also you can use rubberized paint but not as good as the previous. But to me the best has been is to lower the car enough so you can't see them
Here is what mine looked like when I started restoring my 87 GT
Remover the liner from the car. Wear rubber gloves and use brake cleaner and a green scotchbrite pad and scrub them inside and out. Slather them with tire black or other protectant. If they are still oxidized you can use silicone spray that you can buy at a scuba shop. It seems to *penetrate* the plastic a little and restores the black plastic finish well.
Here's what mine look like after cleaning and treating them.
I like those rims.
(Outside showing, but the inside looks the same.)
------------------ What really matters is the size of your Flux Capacitor...
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03:28 PM
Steven Snyder Member
Posts: 3323 From: Los Angeles, CA Registered: Mar 2004
I cleaned and scrubbed mine, but there was overspray from the previous owner's paint job on the wheel wells. After cleaining with dishsoap, I used the black duron spray paint from Home Depot that is designed for plastic adhesion. So far they have lastest quite well and look even better. No chips or problems that I know of - I'll try to get a picture tonight.
On the '86 GT that I've recently acquired, it appears that the previous owner must've driven over a bunch of newly painted yellow lines. There's literally gobs of yellow paint thrown all over the inside of the wheel wells on the driver's side. I'm hoping I can scrub this stuff off as it looks pretty bad.
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09:02 PM
Apr 22nd, 2008
Notorio Member
Posts: 2964 From: Temecula, CA Registered: Oct 2003
Wear rubber gloves and use brake cleaner and a green scotchbrite pad and scrub them inside and out. Slather them with tire black or other protectant. If they are still oxidized you can use silicone spray that you can buy at a scuba shop. It seems to *penetrate* the plastic a little and restores the black plastic finish well.
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It seems that I will have to sand slightly. Even after treatment with brake cleaner and tire protectant, it remains a whitish material which can be removed with 800 sandpaper.
------------------ "So, let me get this straight, Your Honda has 1.6 liters, whereas my bottle of Pepsi has 2 ?"
Originally posted by falcon_ca: It seems that I will have to sand slightly. Even after treatment with brake cleaner and tire protectant, it remains a whitish material which can be removed with 800 sandpaper.
You might also try #0000 steel wool. I used that to clean up a windshield cowl plastic piece and it removed the old oxidation layer nicely and left a nice finish on the plastic.
Just before judging time at the shows i used to go to, i would wipe my wheel well liners down with brake fluid. It makes them shinny and real black, an easy way to keep them clean. Papafiero
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10:59 PM
Apr 28th, 2008
VFR182 Member
Posts: 208 From: Central Kentucky Registered: Sep 2006
Any chance we can get a photo fo the yellow fiero with nice rims from the side to get a look at the rims? Was any modification necessary to fit those rims and tires on? Did they fit right up? thanks
Any chance we can get a photo fo the yellow fiero with nice rims from the side to get a look at the rims? Was any modification necessary to fit those rims and tires on? Did they fit right up? thanks
To get the flat center caps of the wheels to fit, you have to cut off approx. 3/8 inch from the front and rear axle stubs. Keep the cut SQUARE to the axis of the threads and clean up the first few threads after you cut so you can get the axle nuts back on! They will come off easy if the end is crooked, but you'l never get them back on without cross-threading them. I used a abrasive cut-off wheeel in a die grinder after measuring and wrapping tape around the stub as a guide. Bevel the ends of the stub threads approx. 45 degrees with a sanding drum on a Dremel so you have a "lead" for the axle nut to start on. Take your time and keep it straight !!
There are more photos of my car in the Daytona 2008 thread.