I have an '87 SE 2.5L (LR8) and I'd like to change the fuel filter. OK, it's been sitting too long and I'm trying to get it started by doing things from simple to complex (as in fuel tank last resort!). Looking diagrams/photos in the factory service manual, Chiltons and Haynes, all show inlet/return fuel lines on the driver's side coming to the TB with the filter plainly visible just behind the lifting bracket. Uhh, not on my engine. The inlet/return lines are on the pass. side with no filter visible anywhere. The only line coming to the intake manifold on the left is a large black tube which disappears down toward the firewall. Anyone else seen this setup?
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01:49 PM
PFF
System Bot
StockGT Member
Posts: 386 From: O.C. , California Registered: Feb 2007
Thar she blows! Thanks. The factory manual must have been written before they designed the car. Since fuel isn't getting as far as the engine, I wonder if there is another "safe" way to release the pressure in the lines? Other than wearing a face mask and loosening the nuts and hoping for the best?
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02:18 PM
jaskispyder Member
Posts: 21510 From: Northern MI Registered: Jun 2002
When you start removeing the fuel line,the pressure will reduce,a few turnes befor it comes loose.No fuel,to the engine?Does the fuel pump relay work?Can your hear a 3 to 4 second buzz,when you first turn the key?Got fuel in the tank?
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04:49 PM
StockGT Member
Posts: 386 From: O.C. , California Registered: Feb 2007
Before removing the filter, you could remove the fuse to the fuel pump, then try running the car. It will reduce the pressure on the fuel system, but I have found still a bit of fuel left in the pipe. (Have a pan to catch the fuel) Be aware of any potential ignition sources, like a water heater or dryer in the garage.
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05:06 PM
Edatsoar Member
Posts: 17 From: Bedford, Indiana Registered: Dec 2007
Thanks for all the tips. The service manual is for an '87. Ya think they just used the same diagram as earlier years? Surely not! I'll pull the fuse and turn her over a few times just in case. And I won't use a lighter to see where to use the wrenches.
Can you hear the fuel pump run when you first turn the key to RUN? If not, then check the fuse and the fuel pump relay. If yes, then make sure the car has enough fuel (the gas gauge has been known to lie like a dog!).
The car has no shrader valve to check fuel pressure. The easiest but most expensive way to check pressure is to buy a TBI adapter with a shrader valve. The harder but far cheaper method is to remove the fuel filter and use rubber hose and clamps over the exposed metal lines. You are looking for about 12 psi (9-13 range). I highly recommend PB Blaster and flare wrenches on the fittings. Worked like a champ for me.
Do not use connection at T B I to check pressure !! seldom break this connection unless you absolutely have to,, check at fuel filter.. a quick cheap check is to cycle fuel pump.listen to hear pump run .. Wait 3 minutes break connection,, fuel should spray forth,if not .cycle pump again and wait one minute,,if no spray you have a problem with pump or leak After pump cycle look up at top of tank where hoses go is there a leak?? when you check for spray you can place pan under connection area and drap thin rag over the place where you separate connection to prevent eyeball gas irritation check When checking lines fuel filter ect. check vacuum line to vapor vent tank that hides behind battery,you will see it .. Check relay and fuze if it does not cycle... you can switch with a/c relay fuze is marked in fuze box,clear photo in haynes There is a section in manual where it tells you how to check fuel pump using, the oil pressure switch will activate pump at a certain pressure you can check ALDL for jump of fuel pump,, search the forum search feature and you will bring up a photo " how to do "
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12:42 AM
White Spyder Member
Posts: 1047 From: Gluckstadt USA Registered: Sep 2007