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How to install an ignition switch. (pics) by ly41181
Started on: 03-27-2008 12:28 AM
Replies: 10
Last post by: Eclipse on 03-29-2008 08:22 AM
ly41181
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Report this Post03-27-2008 12:28 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ly41181Send a Private Message to ly41181Direct Link to This Post
Here is what went in the car:

Autozone:

Part Number: LS512
Weight: 0.45 lbs.
Application: With automatic transmission
With tilt wheel

Some things I don't have pics of because I was in a hurry.....Sorry

Tools I used:
1/4 wrachet with-----
7mm socket
5/16 deep socket
3/8 socket

3/4 wrachet with-----
1/4 extension
15mm deep socket
14mm socket

Jeweler's phillips screwdriver

Unhook your neg on the battery. Take the 7mm and unscrew the 4 small bolts that hold the trim underneath the steering column. Careful, they are in plastic that might strip out. Now, 2 15mm nuts in the back, 2 15mm bolts in the front. Can't miss them and they are in there good. I did the back nuts then went to the front. You may do it a little different as I ended up resting it on my head after I got them out . I layed it on the seat as it was balanced well there. From there you'll see 4 14mm gold colored bolts that need to come out. They are also in there good. Take the bracket and bolts and sent them aside. Now the switch I got said to put the ignition in the accessory position. Like if you just wanted to listen to the radio. Do that now and leave it like that. Now for stuff I have pics of!

Here is a manual column:



Manual and Automatic ones have different switches.



Manual:



Auto:



Now to unplug the connectors on the old ignition switch. Your not going to see them very well from the drivers side. Here they are with the tangs marked:



Undo the black connector first, its the easiest. DO NOT PULL ON THE WIRES!

Then undo the blue connector. Its the hardest to get out. You may have to bend the thin metal cage that holds the blue connector where the tabs are held in.

Now, to remove the switch from the column. My pics are for the manual column but I also use the auto switch too.

Remove 3/8 nut off left of switch:



Remove 5/16 bolt from the right. Notice that the high beam switch will come loose from the column. If you've left the connector on it like i did, it will just hang there. Just move it aside.



Now, remove the remaining 5/16 bolt from the switch. It will come loose now. Pull it straight up.



MANUAL'S SKIP DOWN

If you have an auto like I did. There is one more thing we have to do. There is a cable on the side of that switch that need to go onto the new switch. Here is how.

Use your jewelers phillips head and remove these 2 screws on both new and old switches:




The tab you need to release is right here. Mine isn't in there but you'll see it. Push it down and the cable will come out.



Snap the cable in the new housing and get the two screws back in it. There is a tab to help seat the housing:



FOR BOTH AUTO AND MANUAL

Fun part now. Your switch was in the accessory position when we took it out. Make sure the new switch is in the same position as the old one:

See that little place where the arrow points too? Thats where the rod will slid into:



Line it up and slide it onto the rod. Becareful not to move the switch as you put it on. It will knock it out of accessory.



Now, carefully put the 5/16 double theaded bolt in on the left and tighten:



Put the high beam switch on its rod and on the double theaded 5/16 bolt. You may see a mark the nut left on the high beam to help line it up:



Put the small 5/16 bolt into the right side and tighten. As you do this the switch's will try and move. Try and keep them steady and in the same spot:



Now put the 3/8 nut on the double theaded bolt and carefully tighten:



Hook up the connections starting with the blue connector. Then do the black. If they are seated good and no movement is in the switches, its time to turn the key into the "lock" position. You'll see the rod slide and the switch click. Connect the neg to the battery and try to start the car. I was careful and put the switch on the exact way the old one came off. If your's does not start, you'll have to adjust the ignition switch untill you get the right position. If all is good, try all positions: on, off(unlocked), off(locked), and accessory. Also make sure your high beam is working also. On autos, shift through the gears. You'll see that cable you attached to the new switch go in. Make sure you can ONLY start the car in park and neutral. Bolt every back up starting with the 4 gold bolts and bracket. Put the column back up and start with the 2 rear nuts. Just get them on there to hold it and then start with the front 2 bolts. Watch the wires so the do not bind when you put the column back up. If its column is up nice and tight, put the trim backup with the 7mm bolts. Carefull not to strip the plastic hold spots. I doesn't take much.

The difference from old switch to new switch was amazing. I had so much slop in the old one, no wonder I had problems with no starts. 2 out of 5 times it would not start. I tried the new one 10 times, drove it up the road, came back and turned it on and off a few more times. No more "no starts". Hope this helps someone.

I CANNOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR DAMAGE TO YOUR CAR! THIS IS WHAT I DID TO FIX MINE. THANK YOU.

[This message has been edited by ly41181 (edited 03-29-2008).]

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Rodrv6
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Report this Post03-27-2008 02:06 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Rodrv6Send a Private Message to Rodrv6Direct Link to This Post
Nice write up! A + for you!

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Rod Schneider, Woodstock, Ga.
"You can't have too many toys!"
1988 Fiero GT
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Report this Post03-27-2008 08:43 AM Click Here to See the Profile for XanthSend a Private Message to XanthDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Rodrv6:

Nice write up! A + for you!



X2! Very nice work

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ly41181
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Report this Post03-27-2008 07:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ly41181Send a Private Message to ly41181Direct Link to This Post
Thanx guys! Just one more thing too. My ignition cylinder has some slop in it also. If im not careful and miss the lock position and go a little down into the accessory position, the radio will stay on. Even with the key out. Just something else to replace

Josh

p.s. Still no more "no starts"

[This message has been edited by ly41181 (edited 03-27-2008).]

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Electrathon
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Report this Post03-27-2008 08:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ElectrathonClick Here to visit Electrathon's HomePageSend a Private Message to ElectrathonDirect Link to This Post
If your lock cylinder is in the off position and the radio is on, you need to properly adjust your ignition switch.

If your key comes out in the accesory position, your lock cylinder is worn and needs to be replaced.
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ly41181
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Report this Post03-27-2008 08:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ly41181Send a Private Message to ly41181Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Electrathon:

If your lock cylinder is in the off position and the radio is on, you need to properly adjust your ignition switch.

If your key comes out in the accesory position, your lock cylinder is worn and needs to be replaced.


I can have the key out and in the lock position and rotate the lock toward the accessory position some and the radio will come on. Thats why I think my lock cylinder is worn. My switch may still need a little adjusting though.
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Report this Post03-27-2008 09:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ElectrathonClick Here to visit Electrathon's HomePageSend a Private Message to ElectrathonDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by ly41181:


I can have the key out and in the lock position and rotate the lock toward the accessory position some and the radio will come on. Thats why I think my lock cylinder is worn. My switch may still need a little adjusting though.


Your cylinder is likely worn if it is still the origional. But by this description, your switch is out of adjustment. Very slight movement of the adjustment makes a lot of differance. Try moving the switch about 1/64th of an inch down,
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ly41181
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Report this Post03-27-2008 09:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ly41181Send a Private Message to ly41181Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Electrathon:


Your cylinder is likely worn if it is still the origional. But by this description, your switch is out of adjustment. Very slight movement of the adjustment makes a lot of differance. Try moving the switch about 1/64th of an inch down,


I think I'll have to get in there and adjust it. Thank you. I thought the switch was just a little tight.

Josh
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Report this Post03-27-2008 09:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ElectrathonClick Here to visit Electrathon's HomePageSend a Private Message to ElectrathonDirect Link to This Post
The switch will work in any position, sort of. The lock does nothing but rotate, the detents are in the switch. So if it is out of adjustment, it will either be almost in run or almost in accesory when you take the key out. If it is too far out one way, it will work perfect except it will not be able to reach the start position. Adjust it a little and play with the key till it hits all positions properly.
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ly41181
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Report this Post03-29-2008 02:18 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ly41181Send a Private Message to ly41181Direct Link to This Post
One bump for people that may have starting problems. Plus some real good info by Electrathon.
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Eclipse
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Report this Post03-29-2008 08:22 AM Click Here to See the Profile for EclipseSend a Private Message to EclipseDirect Link to This Post
You are psychic! I am working on mine tonight, and was just about to post for details! + for you!

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Southern Ontario Fiero Association
Yellow 85 Notchback(A.K.A. GodFearN)

The progress thread: //www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/077740.html

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