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88 4-cylinder half warm starting problem by MclarenF1
Started on: 02-19-2008 10:31 PM
Replies: 14
Last post by: MclarenF1 on 02-24-2008 12:14 AM
MclarenF1
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Report this Post02-19-2008 10:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MclarenF1Click Here to visit MclarenF1's HomePageClick Here to Email MclarenF1Send a Private Message to MclarenF1Direct Link to This Post
So here's the deal. I start the car when it's cold and it starts right up and runs great. When I try to start the car less than a minute after I shut it off after driving it a few miles, it starts right up.

Now here's the problem. When it's shut off for around 10-15 minutes or so and I try to start it, it starts, runs for about two seconds, and then dies. When I try to restart it I have to pump the gas pedal repeatedly in order to keep it from dying again. It sort of sputters when I'm pumping the gas pedal until it get nice and warm. I have replaced the oil, oil filter, spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter, and thoroughly cleaned the injector and throttle body. Anyone have any idea on what is causing my car to do this?

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spark1
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Report this Post02-20-2008 12:59 AM Click Here to See the Profile for spark1Send a Private Message to spark1Direct Link to This Post
My guess would be that the pulsator or hose from the fuel pump to the tank top has a hole in it. You could try jumping 12V from the lighter to the fuel pump pin on the ALDL connector to make the pump run continuously when attempting to start. That will keep the fuel from bleeding back if that is the problem.
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Steven Snyder
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Report this Post02-20-2008 02:44 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Steven SnyderClick Here to visit Steven Snyder's HomePageClick Here to Email Steven SnyderSend a Private Message to Steven SnyderDirect Link to This Post
Umm.. it doesn't have a carb, so pumping the gas pedal isn't going to affect the fuel pump.
If you just hold the throttle open a bit, will it stay running?
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MclarenF1
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Report this Post02-20-2008 03:09 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MclarenF1Click Here to visit MclarenF1's HomePageClick Here to Email MclarenF1Send a Private Message to MclarenF1Direct Link to This Post
just keeping the throttle open doesn't do anything. If you keep your foot down when it's doing it, the revs will just drop and will eventually just die, or it will sputter and slowly rev up. Would resetting the ECM do anything?

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FrugalFiero
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Report this Post02-20-2008 09:23 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FrugalFieroDirect Link to This Post
Had a duke in a S10 with a similar symptom. Try a new CTS (coolant temperature sensor).

Make sure the EGR valve is functioning and the ports are clean.

[This message has been edited by FrugalFiero (edited 02-20-2008).]

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NeoTristan
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Report this Post02-20-2008 05:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for NeoTristanClick Here to visit NeoTristan's HomePageClick Here to Email NeoTristanSend a Private Message to NeoTristanDirect Link to This Post
Replace the sensor in the thermostat housing, coolant temp sensor or something of the sort. When bad, It will tell your computer that its running at -40 degrees all the time so its flooding out when the engine is actually warm. I had the same problem.
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MclarenF1
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Report this Post02-21-2008 12:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MclarenF1Click Here to visit MclarenF1's HomePageClick Here to Email MclarenF1Send a Private Message to MclarenF1Direct Link to This Post
Thanks for the replies, this one has me stumped. Will a CTS from an 85 duke work with the 88?

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MclarenF1
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Report this Post02-22-2008 12:59 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MclarenF1Click Here to visit MclarenF1's HomePageClick Here to Email MclarenF1Send a Private Message to MclarenF1Direct Link to This Post
Bit of an update. Good news is that I think I found the problem. Bad news is, is that the coolant temperature sensor I bought didn't change a damn thing. So me and my dad pulled code and got a Idle Air Control Valve code. Because of the fact that my 85 doesn't have one of those, I have to pay $73 to get one tomorrow. Hopefully then it'll run like a champ. I hate spending money on an engine that isn't even fast. Maybe I can find some an S10 head and intake and put in on there just to get me by until the N*.

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Steven Snyder
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Report this Post02-22-2008 02:58 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Steven SnyderClick Here to visit Steven Snyder's HomePageClick Here to Email Steven SnyderSend a Private Message to Steven SnyderDirect Link to This Post
All that code means is that your idle RPM was not what the ECM wanted it to be. It doesn't necessarily mean the IAC is bad. You could have a vacuum leak. bad wiring to the IAC, a bad IAC drive circuit in the ECM...
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MclarenF1
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Report this Post02-22-2008 03:31 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MclarenF1Click Here to visit MclarenF1's HomePageClick Here to Email MclarenF1Send a Private Message to MclarenF1Direct Link to This Post
Well we pulled the IAC out and isn't it supposed to move? Because we couldn't move it. It was like it was stuck in a certain position. We'll see how it works tomorrow and hopefully the problem will be solved.

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jimbolaya
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Report this Post02-22-2008 07:56 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jimbolayaClick Here to Email jimbolayaSend a Private Message to jimbolayaDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by MclarenF1:

Well we pulled the IAC out and isn't it supposed to move? Because we couldn't move it. It was like it was stuck in a certain position. We'll see how it works tomorrow and hopefully the problem will be solved.



I don't think it will move just by pressing on it. It will move in and out when told by the computer in order to let in more air, or to cut off air. To move/adjust the pental (the tip) it has to be turned and pressed in at the same time. But be careful. It is supposed to be at a certain length. If it is to short, it will always allow too much air to pass through. If it's too long, it will damage the passage way and/or the IAC. Try just cleaning the passage way of any gunk befaore replacing the IAC valve. That helped me.

Jim

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MclarenF1
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Report this Post02-23-2008 05:29 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MclarenF1Click Here to visit MclarenF1's HomePageClick Here to Email MclarenF1Send a Private Message to MclarenF1Direct Link to This Post
Well we replaced the IAC which helped a bunch, and then we swapped the sensor that's mounted on the side of the air cleaner with the one from the 85 and that helped too. It's still doing it but just not as bad. We're thinking it might be that shiny metal thing that's under the air cleaner between the throttle body and the valve cover. It that supposed to be a vacuum thing? And what is it?

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FrugalFiero
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Report this Post02-23-2008 08:50 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FrugalFieroDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by MclarenF1:

We're thinking it might be that shiny metal thing that's under the air cleaner between the throttle body and the valve cover. It that supposed to be a vacuum thing? And what is it?



 
quote
Originally posted by FrugalFiero:

Make sure the EGR valve is functioning and the ports are clean.




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jimbolaya
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Report this Post02-23-2008 05:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jimbolayaClick Here to Email jimbolayaSend a Private Message to jimbolayaDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by MclarenF1:

Well we replaced the IAC which helped a bunch, and then we swapped the sensor that's mounted on the side of the air cleaner with the one from the 85 and that helped too. It's still doing it but just not as bad. We're thinking it might be that shiny metal thing that's under the air cleaner between the throttle body and the valve cover. It that supposed to be a vacuum thing? And what is it?


If it looks like a space saucer, that would be your EGR. If it's closer to the throttle body, that's your throttle position sensor, but they are not shiny.

Jim

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MclarenF1
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Report this Post02-24-2008 12:14 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MclarenF1Click Here to visit MclarenF1's HomePageClick Here to Email MclarenF1Send a Private Message to MclarenF1Direct Link to This Post
Well, I tried to start it after I got off work and it wouldn't start by itself. We we started it using carb cleaner it would sustain itself. We are now thinking it's the EGR valve or a vacuum leak of some sort. I pulled codes during my lunch brake and the were the IAC one (Code 35), the lean exhaust one (Code 44), and the MAP problem one(Code 34). Is there any specific way to clean it, or should I just spray the crap out of it with carb cleaner?

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