I just bought a rebuilt motor. When the drivers side motor is up it is making a little ping like noise every few seconds. It sounds like it is switching inside. And this morning my battery was dead. I'm hoping the seller will stand behind his rebuild, but if he don't, I may have to try to fix it myself. What is wrong ? Can I fix it? Help! Don

That pinging noise is the little internal circuit breaker in the HL motor popping every 10-15 seconds or so. If you are hearing that it means the motor is not traveling far enough to operate the limit switches properly. This is a common issue with the 1st gen motors. until you have time to address the root cause issue, a temporary measure to save your battery is to either 1) after using the lights once they are off unplug the single blue lead with the quick connector, this feeds power to the down circuit. or 2) after turning the lights off turn the manual knob in the close direction (opposite of the arrow on the knob) until you hear the limit switch click, usually another 1/2 to 1 turn from where it stops on it's own. I got by using method two for a month or so until I got a chance to pull & rebuild both my motors.

Buddycraigg is the guru in residence on the gen 1 motors, here is his thread covering their operation/repair. He also has youtube videos available.

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/068488.html

Rich

Richjk21
thanks for the complement

centervilledon
if the person that sold it to you wont replace it, then come back and we'll figure out what the problem is.

Thanx BuddyCraig, Right now I am waiting now for the headlight motor rebuilders reply. I haven't given up on him . He should come thru but you never know.The last test I was asked to run was to turn the lights on (raising the headlights) and listening for the ping. The knob turns by itself slightly clockwise several times just after the headlight comes up. When it stopped completely I then turned the knob a small amount more clockwise until it clicked. The pinging stopped. I e-mailed the rebuilder that message but I haven't heard from him yet. What might that test result mean? Don

Don't mention it buddy. Any bum dope in my response? Trying to keep my answers as aaccurate a possible


Rich

quote Originally posted by centervilledon: What might that test result mean?

it means the limit switch is not being snapped open.
he/she used too soft of bumpers in the gears, or put something together incorrectly.
either way, they need to give you a replacement.

quote Originally posted by Richjk21: Don't mention it buddy. Any bum dope in my response? Trying to keep my answers as aaccurate a possible

well, it was close enough to be helpful, BUT since you asked...
i'll pick it apart

quote Originally posted by Richjk21: That pinging noise is the little internal circuit breaker in the HL motor popping every 10-15 seconds or so.

i've seen the cirucit breakers cycle anywhere from 1 to 5 seconds, but not that long

quote Originally posted by Richjk21: If you are hearing that it means the motor is not traveling far enough to operate the limit switches properly.

it's the armature is not moving enough in the motor housing.
if you're really bored, you can read this.
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/068642.html

quote Originally posted by Richjk21: until you have time to address the root cause issue, a temporary measure to save your battery is to either 1) after using the lights once they are off unplug the single blue lead with the quick connector, this feeds power to the down circuit. or 2) after turning the lights off turn the manual knob in the close direction (opposite of the arrow on the knob) until you hear the limit switch click, usually another 1/2 to 1

the problem i see here, is that by centervilledon description, it's happening in both directions.
yes, your suggestions will keep the battery from running down.
but if the motor keeps turning on and off while the headlights are in the up position, it's going to ruin the commutator or windings in the armature.
i would have recommended unplugging either connector on the relay next to the motor.

quote Originally posted by Richjk21: unplug the single blue lead with the quick connector, this feeds power to the down circuit.

but on a positive note...
very good. a lot of people dont understand this

[This message has been edited by buddycraigg (edited 02-01-2008).]

hmmm... okay fair enough ... so in your experience what is the interval at which the internal circuit breakers pop ..... from my recollection that seemed about right...

quote Originally posted by Richjk21: hmmm... okay fair enough ... so in your experience what is the interval at which the internal circuit breakers pop ..... from my recollection that seemed about right...

i was doing some editing to my post, read it again.

gotcha

Thanx for your ideas. I guess I'll wait a day or so to see if he will take it back. He thought maybe I could have a bad relay. Could a bad relay cause that problem? Don

quote Originally posted by centervilledon: Could a bad relay cause that problem? Don

no, and whoever suggested that doesn't understand how the headlight system works.

It was the guy who sold me the rebuilt motor. He may be trying to slide out of taking care of a poor rebuild. I haven't heard back from him yet either. I'm beginning to wonder if he will stand behind his work. If he doesn't respond by Monday evening I'm going to warn others not to buy his headlght motors. I may be forced to take it apart myself if I can find out what to look. From what I have gathered so far, soft bumpers might cause the problem. That may be one thing to look for. To BuddyCraig...Did you use JB weld instead of bumpers in your rebuilds? Don

quote Originally posted by centervilledon: To BuddyCraig...Did you use JB weld instead of bumpers in your rebuilds? Don

yes

BuddyCraig, It looks like the guy who sold me the bad headlight motor is going to stiff me . I haven't totally given up so I am not going to say his name yet. But that will come if he doesn't answer my e-mails pretty soon. If I am forced to take it apart what should I look for that might cause that problem? It should be clean and the gears are okay and I don't have to drill out the rivets. It is all bolted together. What could I do besides checking the blocks and maybe cleaning the contacts? What would you do with it? It is no good like it is. Don

many of us that have rebuilt motors have had problems because the cushions are too soft.

you can come up with your own system, but I fill the gears with JB weld.

Thanx Buddycraigg, I just went out this morning and realized I had left on my trickle charger on the battery for a couple of days. The voltage was up to 12.8 volts without any drain. Anyway I put the headlights up a couple of times and NO ping. The knob did creep a little but the switching noise was gone. So maybe because the battery had a borderline charge before when I did rhe tests it was just low enough to cause the motor to stop just short of making the switch. I'm thinking also that when the motor is started the voltage will be up so when I put the lights up it will go up far enough to make the switch. I guess I'll try and get by with it as it is. I won't know too much until this spring when I put my insurance back on it. I only drive the car in nicer weather when the salt isn't on the roads anymore. If I have problems this spring I will take it apart and use JB Weld instead of bumpers. I could take it apart now but I don't want to screw it up. Would it do harm to spray a little WD-40 under the knob to make it spin easier? Don