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Possible Clutch Pitfall by fffttt1
Started on: 01-16-2008 01:35 AM
Replies: 6
Last post by: fffttt1 on 01-17-2008 06:18 AM
fffttt1
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Report this Post01-16-2008 01:35 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fffttt1Click Here to Email fffttt1Send a Private Message to fffttt1Direct Link to This Post
Been having trouble w/ clutch. Installed new slave and master. Bled the heck out of it until I get good 3/4 to 1" of stroke at the arm. Jump in and clutch is to the floor. Can't get into gear. No apparent fluid leaks. Go back to bleeding and find more air. Must have run 2qts. of fluid through that damn thing. Well at least it's clean now!. Got fed up. Decided to go back to ground zero. Took out new master and slave, blew air through the lines to positively clean. Disassembled slave and master.........ahh hah!!! .....the circlip on the end of the slave had come loose and was resting in the rubber boot. Apparently after getting a good bleed, I'd jump in and when I pressed the clutch in, the slave piston would over travel inducing more air into the system. I tell all this just because it seems to be yet another pitfall of this miserable Fiero hydraulic clutch system. I will win!!!!!
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BIGG_SEXXY
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Report this Post01-16-2008 02:00 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BIGG_SEXXYClick Here to visit BIGG_SEXXY's HomePageSend a Private Message to BIGG_SEXXYDirect Link to This Post
Damn! No joke hugh?

Im in the process of bleeding my master and slave cylinder. I will get around to it this weekend.

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Francis T
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Report this Post01-16-2008 07:36 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Francis TClick Here to visit Francis T's HomePageClick Here to Email Francis TSend a Private Message to Francis TDirect Link to This Post
I had same basic problem recently and was told to raise the front end of the car up high (used ramps) and gravity bleed for like ten minutes and then refill it, This was done with the pedal in normal up position. I didnt even have to bleed it again, that did it.

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fffttt1
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Report this Post01-16-2008 10:45 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fffttt1Click Here to Email fffttt1Send a Private Message to fffttt1Direct Link to This Post
I've been through all the front up, gravity bleed, vacuum bleed, pressure bleed, compress the slave, scenarios and have had success in the past with a few of them. I think the slave "over traveling" because the circlip was not in place is the problem. Air was introduced each time I depressed the clutch right after a successful bleed. And that was driving me crazy 'cause I couldn't figure out why it was happening. I was just trying to send up a red flag on the circlip to other members with clutch hydraulic problems. I guess I'll find out if I was right in a couple of hours 'cause I'm putting it all back together this afternoon. Maybe I'll actually get to drive this thing again!!! Imagine that.
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buddycraigg
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Report this Post01-16-2008 11:37 AM Click Here to See the Profile for buddycraiggClick Here to Email buddycraiggSend a Private Message to buddycraiggDirect Link to This Post
if the slave is moving far enough to get to where the snap ring is,
then it's going to bottom out against the snap ring.
why isn't the push rod moving the slave piston deeper in to the bore, when it's at rest?

something not right.

[This message has been edited by buddycraigg (edited 01-16-2008).]

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josef644
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Report this Post01-16-2008 12:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for josef644Click Here to Email josef644Send a Private Message to josef644Direct Link to This Post
I did the garvity bleed method, with a twist.

I had my wheel tubs out already. Took the slave off of the transmission mount and lowered it as far as the hose would reach. make sure the bleeder is up. I put a real long bolt in the bore and moved the piston all of the way against the rear area by the bleed screw. I put a tie-strap on the bolt hold it in place impaled. I removed the bleed screw and ran two master cylinder fills through. I tapped the slave several times to let any trapped air out. Tighten the bleeder and put it back on the transmission. When you remove the bolt the fluid in the Master will fill the void in the slave bore. Dont let it empty out. When you add the clutch slave rod back on and mount it back some of the fluid should go back in to the master allow room for returning fluid.

Got all of the air out? You hope so, or know so?

BEFORE you put the slave back on the car do this simple 30 second test to check for air in the system.

Remove the tie-strap and bolt. The piston will move out the the retrainer snap ring. Using your fingers only depress your clutch peddle. You will have a 1/16" or less of slack movement take up. Any movement after that is air in your system. As the piston is all of the way extended you will not have any more than the "slack take up" when you try to depress the peddle. None. It should be rock hard. This testing method will let you know if you still have air in your system every time. If you have more that 1/16" slack movement, then that is another item you need to address by putting a new bushing on the master rod mount at the clutch peddle. You will be able to tell the difference between slack take up and air. They feel different. one is loose, one is spongy feeling. If you are not sure you can take a light and look at the clutch master rod as you depress it to see when the rod starts to move. If the rod is moving you still have air."

Good luck
Joe Crawford

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 01-16-2008).]

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fffttt1
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Report this Post01-17-2008 06:18 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fffttt1Click Here to Email fffttt1Send a Private Message to fffttt1Direct Link to This Post
Thanks for the help/info guys. I think I need to just let it sit for a few days and calm down. There's got to be something I've missed or not done correctly. I think some football and a few beers is the correct prescription this weekend! GO PACKERS!!!!
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