I did the garvity bleed method, with a twist.
I had my wheel tubs out already. Took the slave off of the transmission mount and lowered it as far as the hose would reach. make sure the bleeder is up. I put a real long bolt in the bore and moved the piston all of the way against the rear area by the bleed screw. I put a tie-strap on the bolt hold it in place impaled. I removed the bleed screw and ran two master cylinder fills through. I tapped the slave several times to let any trapped air out. Tighten the bleeder and put it back on the transmission. When you remove the bolt the fluid in the Master will fill the void in the slave bore. Dont let it empty out. When you add the clutch slave rod back on and mount it back some of the fluid should go back in to the master allow room for returning fluid.
Got all of the air out? You hope so, or know so?
BEFORE you put the slave back on the car do this simple 30 second test to check for air in the system.
Remove the tie-strap and bolt. The piston will move out the the retrainer snap ring. Using your fingers only depress your clutch peddle. You will have a 1/16" or less of slack movement take up. Any movement after that is air in your system. As the piston is all of the way extended you will not have any more than the "slack take up" when you try to depress the peddle. None. It should be rock hard. This testing method will let you know if you still have air in your system every time. If you have more that 1/16" slack movement, then that is another item you need to address by putting a new bushing on the master rod mount at the clutch peddle. You will be able to tell the difference between slack take up and air. They feel different. one is loose, one is spongy feeling. If you are not sure you can take a light and look at the clutch master rod as you depress it to see when the rod starts to move. If the rod is moving you still have air."
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 01-16-2008).]