Pennock's Fiero Forum
  Technical Discussion & Questions - Archive
  88 duke trouble -- hard to start, stalls

T H I S   I S   A N   A R C H I V E D   T O P I C
  

Email This Page to Someone! | Printable Version


88 duke trouble -- hard to start, stalls by pswayne
Started on: 01-11-2008 09:54 PM
Replies: 11
Last post by: Steven Snyder on 01-17-2008 09:52 PM
pswayne
Member
Posts: 1282
From: Lawrenceville, GA USA
Registered: Sep 2006


Feedback score: (2)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post01-11-2008 09:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pswayneClick Here to Email pswayneSend a Private Message to pswayneDirect Link to This Post
My 88 duke has become increasingly hard to start. Tonight after work, it developed a new phase. When it finally does start, it only runs for a minute or two, and then shuts off abruptly, like someone just turned off the key. It has fuel pressure -- fuel does not seem to be the problem. I'm thinking it's the ignition module. What do you guys think?
IP: Logged
PFF
System Bot
avengador1
Member
Posts: 35467
From: Orlando, Florida
Registered: Oct 2001


Feedback score:    (7)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 572
Rate this member

Report this Post01-11-2008 10:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for avengador1Click Here to Email avengador1Send a Private Message to avengador1Direct Link to This Post
The question is does it have enough fuel pressure? Have you ever changed the fuel filter? Maybe your fuel pump itself is failing too. The ignition module is a fairly common part that fails too. Most seasoned Fiero owners carry a spare.

[This message has been edited by avengador1 (edited 01-11-2008).]

IP: Logged
Hudini
Member
Posts: 7889
From: Shanghai, China
Registered: Feb 2006


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 158
Rate this member

Report this Post01-12-2008 11:05 AM Click Here to See the Profile for HudiniClick Here to Email HudiniSend a Private Message to HudiniDirect Link to This Post
The '87 and '88 with DIS have a pretty tough IM. When I started having start and idle problems I did 4 things. Replaced TPS, CTS, thermostat, and rebuilt the throttle body with an Autozone kit ( 96-626B). The car idles very well now, cold or warm. On very cold days I have to crack the throttle just a tad until the car lights off. Warm starts are no problem. I think the throttle plate needs adjusting but haven't removed the factory seal on the adjusting screw until I can get a look at my IAC counts.
IP: Logged
Gordo
Member
Posts: 2981
From: East Guilford, NY, USA
Registered: Mar 2002


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 114
Rate this member

Report this Post01-12-2008 11:11 AM Click Here to See the Profile for GordoSend a Private Message to GordoDirect Link to This Post
Hows the "Check engine light"? Are there any codes?
IP: Logged
Toddster
Member
Posts: 20834
From: Roswell, Georgia
Registered: May 2001


Feedback score:    (41)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 503
Rate this member

Report this Post01-12-2008 11:58 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ToddsterClick Here to Email ToddsterSend a Private Message to ToddsterDirect Link to This Post
I guess the word that stands out to me is "abruptly". If it was fuel related I tend to think it would sputter to a stall. If it just shuts down then I am more inclined to suspect an electrical problem. It could be either a fuel DELIVERY fault like a bad relay or injector or it is an ignition issue like weak coil packs.

My first suggestion is to test the relays, if they are OK, then I would test the injector (I have my own injector tester but if you don't you can send them off for testing. New ones are PRICEY so don't buy if you don't have to). Then I would check the coil packs for proper voltage.
IP: Logged
uhlanstan
Member
Posts: 6446
From: orlando florida
Registered: Apr 2007


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 427
User Banned

Report this Post01-12-2008 02:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for uhlanstanClick Here to Email uhlanstanSend a Private Message to uhlanstanDirect Link to This Post
First switch the a/c relay to the pump position (not sure if coolant relay is same) if problem remains,have tools ready to crack fuel filter.turn key on listen to see if pump primes,if it does let sit for 3 to 5 minutes then open fuel filter connection if fuel shoot out,this is indicator that pump has good pressure.if a duke holds pressure for longer than 5 minutes you probably have a good pump,this is a good time to remove fuel filter and tap inlet on wood block to check contents this gives you also a partial guide as to the amount of trash in tank..or if problem is filter.. if fuel filter is filled with trash reinstall THIS filter to check amount of trash comming from tank later..Do not ever remove connection at T B I unless absolutely neccessary.. This connection will develope a leak if removed to many times(and you know how I know this) When engine stops and will not run have a known good spark plug ready to connect to #1 wire to check for spark.. eyeball ,diagnose, isolate. so as to repair only the problem and not replace parts,,you can also check each coil by checking a spark plug from each coil for spark intensity.. The 87 88 duke will run on one coil(2 cylinders) but is hard to start..Normally a duke will not die after start up and not start again, if one coil is good and the other is weak but working poorly.. when an engine dies if you squirt some quick start in the T B I , immediately, if there is spark & correct time it will fire.

[This message has been edited by uhlanstan (edited 01-12-2008).]

IP: Logged
uhlanstan
Member
Posts: 6446
From: orlando florida
Registered: Apr 2007


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 427
User Banned

Report this Post01-12-2008 03:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for uhlanstanClick Here to Email uhlanstanSend a Private Message to uhlanstanDirect Link to This Post
WHAT A PUMP GOING BAD WILL DO,gradual increase in problem
cold start-takes a few cranks but fires and run normal
stumbling on take off
occasional back fire
when hot,hard to start,after start boggs and stumbles
when headlite turn on stalls & boggs
car hard to startthen has rough idle &eratic idle
slight touch of throttle boggs stumbles or stalls
intake backfire & smells like run rich
IP: Logged
pswayne
Member
Posts: 1282
From: Lawrenceville, GA USA
Registered: Sep 2006


Feedback score: (2)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post01-12-2008 06:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pswayneClick Here to Email pswayneSend a Private Message to pswayneDirect Link to This Post
Update on my car. This morning, I went to my work, changed the ignition module, and after some trouble, got it started. I drove around the building -- no problems. I drove home (about 15 miles). It ran perfectly. I went in the house for 45 minutes. Then it was time to go the Fiero club meeting. It wouldn't start.
I know there is fuel pressure because I pulled the injector without doing anything to relieve the pressure. Got squirted with gas. I know the injector is working because it runs and drives perfectly when it does run.
Someone at the club meeting (I took my other Fiero) said to remove the ECM and re-do all the solder connections. Since my background is electronics, I think I'll try that.
And it hasn't turned on the check engine light at all. Maybe I'll check the codes anyway.
BTW, someone at the club meeting wanted to look at my duke because he has an earlier duke and wanted to see if it was possible to upgrade the belts to the single serpentine belt of the 87-88's. He couldn't check it because I took my V6. So does anyone know if it's possible?
IP: Logged
Raydar
Member
Posts: 38433
From: Carrollton GA. Out in the... country.
Registered: Oct 1999


Feedback score:    (11)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 451
Rate this member

Report this Post01-12-2008 06:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarClick Here to Email RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarDirect Link to This Post
Pat,

Check The Ogre's cave. The link is at the top of every Forum page.
He's got about as much 87-88 Duke experience as anyone here. That's where I got the "intermittant ECM" thing from.
Also be sure that all of the engine and ECM electrical connectors are securely plugged in.
IP: Logged
Hudini
Member
Posts: 7889
From: Shanghai, China
Registered: Feb 2006


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 158
Rate this member

Report this Post01-13-2008 01:06 AM Click Here to See the Profile for HudiniClick Here to Email HudiniSend a Private Message to HudiniDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Raydar:

Pat,

Check The Ogre's cave. The link is at the top of every Forum page.
He's got about as much 87-88 Duke experience as anyone here. That's where I got the "intermittant ECM" thing from.
Also be sure that all of the engine and ECM electrical connectors are securely plugged in.


All good advice. And speaking of ECM connectors, remember (IIRC) Capt Fiero's 4.9 problems? Very similar to what you are experiencing. The C203 connector under the ECM had come loose. Sometimes it ran great, sometimes nothing. Also, 3800Superfast had issues with a loose ECM ground giving him fits. That is also below the ECM on the center metal part. Here is a pic of the C203 and the solution to it not coming apart - a zip tie:

IP: Logged
pswayne
Member
Posts: 1282
From: Lawrenceville, GA USA
Registered: Sep 2006


Feedback score: (2)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post01-17-2008 09:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pswayneClick Here to Email pswayneSend a Private Message to pswayneDirect Link to This Post
Update: The car seems to be working now. I bought a used ECM from Ebay, which originally came from an 87 Olds Cutlass Ciera 2.5. I put my ROM in it and put it in the car. It started right up. Let it warm up, tried several re-starts. Everything seemed fine, except the check engine light came on. I checked for codes and got 12 (OK). So I drove around a bit. It seemed fine. then I stopped and restarted it, and this time, no check engine light. Maybe it just had to learn that it was OK.
I'm going to drive it to work tomorrow. Wish me luck!
IP: Logged
PFF
System Bot
Steven Snyder
Member
Posts: 3311
From: Los Angeles, CA
Registered: Mar 2004


Feedback score: (2)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 106
Rate this member

Report this Post01-17-2008 09:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Steven SnyderClick Here to visit Steven Snyder's HomePageClick Here to Email Steven SnyderSend a Private Message to Steven SnyderDirect Link to This Post
I had a similar problem. The ECM had a broken trace somewhere. I opened the ECM case, turned on the car, then pressed on the circuit board. It would cough and sputter as I bent the board, and would often stall out. That transparent rubbery coating they put on the board seems to shrink over time and start tearing the board apart. The only solution is to replace it with a refurbished unit. The old ones will all eventually have this problem..
IP: Logged



All times are ET (US)

T H I S   I S   A N   A R C H I V E D   T O P I C
  

Contact Us | Back To Main Page

Advertizing on PFF | Fiero Parts Vendors
PFF Merchandise | Fiero Gallery | Ogre's Cave
Real-Time Chat | Fiero Related Auctions on eBay



Copyright (c) 1999, C. Pennock