Ok everyone lets see what you did.

I have an electric pump in place of the stock mechanical pump. Its pretty straight forward.

Gets the job done but cant be fixed along side of the road.

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Click here to hear my cars

The electric pump gets the job done and can be ran after the motor is shut off to help cool down the car faster.
But should the motor or empeller go bad you are going to have the car towed to get it fixed.

I have also been looking at this and the only thing that keeps me from getting it is the money

http://www.snowwhiteltd.com/inst_riserpumpkit.htm

it just happens that we've been discussing that subject in my SBC thread just today

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/086758.html

Cheers,
Russ

[This message has been edited by Russ544 (edited 11-06-2007).]

quote Originally posted by Russ544: it just happens that we've been discussing that subject in my SBC thread just today https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/086758.html Cheers, Russ

I know but I don't want to hijack your thread with my ramblings you were my inspiration.

quote Originally posted by Jake_Dragon: I know but I don't want to hijack your thread with my ramblings you were my inspiration.

Ha Ha. it's good to know that I'm an "inspiration" to _someone_ . no worries on the hijack. We're all just rambling here anyway.



4 cyl Fiero pump mounted alongside engine. no room for ac on this setup, but who needs ac in Oregon? . works great.

Russ

[This message has been edited by Russ544 (edited 11-06-2007).]

I have an electric waterpump set-up like Jake's and have not had any problems for 3 years now.

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Happiness isn't around the corner...
Happiness IS the corner.
ZZ4 Powered !!

Here is my belt driven water pump that fits within the stock fiero frame rails (88 chassis) and did not require any cutting/denting to any fiero sheet metal for it to fit.






It was originally developed and installed in Sept 2004 when my SBC had a carb and the offset housings reworked in 2005 when the RamJet EFI unit was installed.

The offset housings move the SBC housing 1 3/4" from the block, forward about 3" and raises the rear about 6". The SBC housing is capped with a freeze plug and machined to accept a $29 3.4 water pump insert. The belt drive is now on the backside. I have about 20K miles on this setup, been from WI to FL to IL, 2 FieroRamas and 2 Hot Rod Power Tours with literally hours spend idling and hours on the interstate turning 3K... works real well. Feel free to PM me if you have questions or want more pics...

Before the mechanical pump, I ran a remote electric Morroso pump that I do not recommend to anyone:

I've got a CSR electric remote mounted where the battery used to be. I've been running it hard for 2 years and never had a problem over heating. This includes long road trips, hot summer days, and some hot laps on Road America. I've never seen it over 190 on the street and at the track it was maybe 210. I've got a vented hood coming soon so that should cool it even more. Heres a pic of my setup. Unfortunately, I don't have any pics of it all hooked up. Basically, I made my own adapter plates that bolt to the block and water pump that are tapped for 3/4" pipe and then I ran some aeroquip push loc fittings to make it all work. Its never leaked this way and works fine.



-tim

dug up my remote pump posts

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...040710-2-046561.html

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yellow 88 GT, not stock
white 88 notchie, 4 banger

I had the same idea as you Jake. My csr water pump was making noise after 3 years and I didn't want any problems on the road, so I got v8 Archies drive belt kit with the short pump. I figured that if I was stuck on the road I could pick one up at any parts store.

Joe

quote Originally posted by GODFATHER: I had the same idea as you Jake. My csr water pump was making noise after 3 years and I didn't want any problems on the road, so I got v8 Archies drive belt kit with the short pump. I figured that if I was stuck on the road I could pick one up at any parts store. Joe

Thanks for posting Joe, I tried to find some pictures of his setup. Do you have some pictures?

quote Originally posted by Russ544: but who needs ac in Oregon? . works great. Russ

Hehe. Thats what I keep saying but I still get that same old question, "Why aren't you using the AC?"

Here in Oregon there is only about 1 week a year that you will actually NEED it. I'd rather have the weight and HP back they worry about that. AC schmacee

No I don't. If you look on Archies web sight on the v8 installation instrutions you get a idea of what it looks like. There's a shaft that bolts to the crank pulley with a timing belt type pulley. And the water pump get's a timing belt type pulley bolted to it. It uses a cog belt. Looks like a mini timing belt. You slide the 2 pulley's on at the same time and there's no adjustments. The belt is alittle loose for my likings but it works. I like it better then the electric one because the flow changes with engine rpm and it seems to keep my coolant temp more stable.

Joe

quote Originally posted by GODFATHER: No I don't. If you look on Archies web sight on the v8 installation instrutions you get a idea of what it looks like. There's a shaft that bolts to the crank pulley with a timing belt type pulley. And the water pump get's a timing belt type pulley bolted to it. It uses a cog belt. Looks like a mini timing belt. You slide the 2 pulley's on at the same time and there's no adjustments. The belt is alittle loose for my likings but it works. I like it better then the electric one because the flow changes with engine rpm and it seems to keep my coolant temp more stable. Joe

I know he did have pictures of his newer design. I have one of his older design but I don't like the looks of it but I could probably clean it up.
Thanks

What doesn't allow to fix it alongside the road? What is different in a belt drive that allows it to be fixed alongside the road? Honestly I think any WP failure on a V8 won't be fixed quickly alongside the road. And you can always order a next day unit for the E-pump. Here is my setup. If I get paranoid I can buy and carry a spare motor that I can quickly replace alongside the road with a 7mm, a hex, a blade & phillips screwdriver. Can you beat that? Can you do that with a belt driven one?

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Red: TPI V8 + 6-Speed Yellow: Nitrous 3.4 + 4 speed Auto
304rwHP/366rwTQ

quote Originally posted by Alex4mula: What doesn't allow to fix it alongside the road? What is different in a belt drive that allows it to be fixed alongside the road? Honestly I think any WP failure on a V8 won't be fixed quickly alongside the road. And you can always order a next day unit for the E-pump. Here is my setup. If I get paranoid I can buy and carry a spare motor that I can quickly replace alongside the road with a 7mm, a hex, a blade & phillips screwdriver. Can you beat that? Can you do that with a belt driven one?

Thanks for posting Alex.
If my pump fails I have to jack up the side of the car, remove the wheel, remove the fender liner, remove the hoses and then I can remove the water pump.
If I want to drop the cradle I have to pull the water pump because it hits the frame rail. Now I could go with a remote like yours and some of those above.

I just wanted to see all of the options in one place or as many as we can come up with.

how about a cam driven water pump, If you can shorten the pump drive up it would be a compact water pump

http://www.glen-l.com/weble...ters-5/wl42-cam.html

quote Originally posted by jweisman: how about a cam driven water pump, If you can shorten the pump drive up it would be a compact water pump http://www.glen-l.com/weble...ters-5/wl42-cam.html

I'm not sure that would cool well enough for automotive use. a boat has a constant supply of cold water to draw from so it doesn't need much flow. the cam drive, being 1/2 crank speed, is plenty for boats, but............

quote Originally posted by Russ544: I'm not sure that would cool well enough for automotive use. a boat has a constant supply of cold water to draw from so it doesn't need much flow. the cam drive, being 1/2 crank speed, is plenty for boats, but............

I was thinking the same thing, it also looks like a plastic impeller.

Is there any electric water pump that can mount right to the engine without too much clearance trouble? Or does it seem that the remote electric pump is the better idea? -Mark

Everyone that I have seen stick out and hits the frame rail.
Mine requires a hole cut in the strut tower.

I wonder if this setup would clear the rail.

If the motor is the same as the standard electric pump than it should last just as long.

Sorry these pics are so nasty.

When we bought the car, one of the first things I wanted to do was grind down and smooth out the brace he put in the side. (you will see it in the pics. it looks really rough, needs to be smoothed and painted to look nice.

As well as cleaning a few areas that the sheet metal needs to be trimmed smooth.

The car has been pretty much parked for the last 6 months so its pretty dirty.

Now to the good stuff.

He took a mid 90's Corvette waterpump, blocked off one of the ports with a plug, flipped it over back wards of the way it fit on the Vette and installed it on the V8 in the Fiero. The housing is a composite matériel and he claims that it should outlast the engine and probably the car. Note the balancer and everything uses a stock flat belt and not a V-Belt. There are 2 idler pulleys in the system.

I will try to get better pics if we have to drop the cradle for anything. Oh and yes the inner fender liners do fit back in and cover it all up from the elements.

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85GT 5spd ,93 Eldorado 4.9 Dual O2 Custom Chip, Archie Clutch. Custom Exhaust. MSD Everything 245/50/16's Not Your Average 4.9 Capt Fiero Com --- My Over View Cadero Pics Yellow 88GT 5spd Stock.

quote Originally posted by Capt Fiero: He took a mid 90's Corvette waterpump, blocked off one of the ports with a plug, flipped it over back wards of the way it fit on the Vette and installed it on the V8 in the Fiero. The housing is a composite matériel and he claims that it should outlast the engine and probably the car. Note the balancer and everything uses a stock flat belt and not a V-Belt. There are 2 idler pulleys in the system.

I'll be darned if I can figure out this system. Mid 90s would be the LT1 engine, which wouldn't bolt on an early motor, and the LT1 guts aren't a cartridge that could be placed in another housing. it looks kinda like an early shorty pump in one of the pics actually, but looks totally different in another one. did the PO say he made the "composit housing" himself? or was it a piece from some other car?
My other observation is.......: tell me that the Fiero "frame" isn't cut clear through on that car, in the area of the crank pulley.......... please?. I'm always interested to see new ideas, but this one has be baffled. but then on occation I have been accused of.... being... a..... little...... slow

Looks like a waterpump from the L98 corvette TPI - (85-91, 92-96 was LT1/LT4). Short style SBC pump but setup for reverse rotation, so it needs the upper idler to wrap the pulley on the bottom side. If they would use a 6 rib pulley on the waterpump, they could use a traditional short waterpump, wrap the belt over the top, and do away with the upper idler (the composite looking thing at the top).

That would make it similar to the setup vortecfiero is using on his 4.3
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/068444.html

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 01-18-2008).]

The water pump is stock as it came from the Vette. I will try and get in touch with him and get more details about the pump. One of his requests when he sold it to us, is that he never wanted to see or hear about the car again. He loved the car, and REALLY did not want to sell it.

As for the frame rail. For the most part, the Stock rail is gone. What you can't see in those pics, is that he basically made a new frame rail and that is much stronger than the stock rail. You can't really tell in those pics, but that is 1/4 or 3/8" Plate Steel cut and welded on all 4 sides of each joint. (hence why it looks so messy) It was a bit overkill for the material choice, but he knew than he had to be well over strong due to the way he modified the stock section back there.

quote Originally posted by fieroguru: Before the mechanical pump, I ran a remote electric Morroso pump that I do not recommend to anyone:

Didn't those low profile Moroso pumps only run 19GPM? Yeah - that's not enough in most cases.

Mine, before she was sold because of a high-temp problem I could not figure out:

this is what mine had, im going electric this year, just a small dent put into the wheel well

this electric pump looks interesting for several applications

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayI...me=ADME:B:SS:CA:1123

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87 Fiero GT 5sp with Vortec L35 4300 Turbocharged V6
Bully Stage 2 clutch
Syclone intake manifold and engine management with Moates adapter and chip burner
Air/water intercooler and Devil's Own progressive water/alky injection
50lb injectors, 3 bar map sensor, Walboro fuel pump and Jabasco Intercooler pump
LM1 wideband on custom manifolds and 3" stainless exhaust system
T31/T04B S4 turbo with a Super T61 in the box
S10 caliper conversion.
Murphy's Constant Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value
Murphy's Law of Thermodynamics Things get worse under pressure.
Arthur C. Clarke "Any significantly advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic"

Thanks for posting guys keep them coming.

One think I have found so far is with the inline pumps is they don't seem to move as much water as the larger ones that attach to the front of the motor, but I have only see a few of them.

I have been running this remote CSR pump and I haven't had any problems with it so far. It is nice and quite also, I can't even hear it running. The engine temp runs at about 190 to 200 degrees.



Craig

You say your CSR pump works well. Do you have a V8 and is your radiator stock?

quote Originally posted by garage monster: You say your CSR pump works well. Do you have a V8 and is your radiator stock?

Yes I am running a V8 and no my radiator is not stock. I am running the upgraded radiator that was included in my master build kit from Archie.


You can see the pump tucked under the right engine vent.

Craig

This is a frame mounted water pump for a 454 car.



It's a billet housing with a GM 60 degree FWD pump insert.

[This message has been edited by Russ Fiero (edited 01-19-2008).]

Thanks for posting, thats an interesting setup.
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