Wow Cliff! I never knew what your lineage was. I always assumed that you ran some garage or something (to be involved with Fieros) and where just good at computer related things. Did not know it was the other way around.
Itís not to hard and probably takes more muscle than brains.
You looking for something like this? Others can add their advice/tips.
I donít know what year so thinking itís not an 88 so will write that way and that your E brake is adjusted correctly.
1. First clean the grit off the brake adjuster under the left rear edge of the cradle. Using a wrench and a vise grip or pliers loosen the brake adjuster about ten turns. If you keep track of how many turns you give it you can then put it back and should be in good shape.
2. Remove the tire from the side you want to replace.
3. Cover the floor under the wheel area so you donít get brake fluid on the floor and make the garage mad.
4. Work the brake cable and spring off the e-brake level of the caliper. (I usually just do this with my hands wearing gloves.)
5. Squeeze the cable shield clips on the brake cable and remove it from the hole in the caliper bracket. This sometimes thatís a little patents. I use a needle nose most of the time and work it at an angle.
6. Get the correct size torque bit that fits the caliper pins. ( I donít remember what the size is but sure someone will post it.) Since the caliper was replaced not to long ago and you donít drive it that much should not be rusted in and fairly easy to remove. Loosen the two pins but donít remove them yet.
7. Now with a socket or wrench break the brake line bolt loose that holds the brake line to the caliper. If you work quickly you can pull the bolt, cover the end of the hose and stick it up into the strut spring so the fluid stops running out.
8. You now free to remove the two caliper bolts and pull the caliper straight out, up and forward and toward the car door. Work it a little and you will see how it slides out.
9. Switch the pads from the old caliper to the new. (unless you are replacing them.) Note the metal ring or spring looking thing behind the inside pad so you can put in back in the relative same position on the new caliper. Itís there to pull the pad away from the rotor and keep it from rattling.
10. If the new caliper is compressed all the way (which it should on a new one) you should be able to slide the new caliper and pads back over the rotor. If not then post back for help on that (if needed).
11. When installng the brake line to the new caliper there should be two copper washers, one on each side of the hose end that the bolt goes thru. Make sure these are both there as they often like to stick on the caliper. does not hurt to get new ones also.
12. Reverse all above and you will be ready to bleed the air out of the caliper when a helper. Be sure to put a block of wood under the brake peddle so you don't press it all the way to the floor and hurt your master. Do you know how to bleed the air?
[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 10-26-2007).]