Pennock's Fiero Forum
  Technical Discussion & Questions - Archive
  3.4 build, think i threw another rod bearing on engine number 2....

T H I S   I S   A N   A R C H I V E D   T O P I C
  

Email This Page to Someone! | Printable Version


3.4 build, think i threw another rod bearing on engine number 2.... by americasfuture2k
Started on: 02-26-2007 10:03 PM
Replies: 24
Last post by: merlot566jka on 04-14-2008 07:15 PM
americasfuture2k
Member
Posts: 7131
From: Edmond, Oklahoma
Registered: Jan 2006


Feedback score: (3)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 105
Rate this member

Report this Post02-26-2007 10:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for americasfuture2kSend a Private Message to americasfuture2kDirect Link to This Post
well it seems like its done it again. this engine had new bearing installed and the crank was in perfect shape. ive put about 200 miles on this engine and all has seemed great. but this morning the cel came on and the rpms dipped to about 800-1000 and when it did the low oil pressure light came on. i got out and put my ear to a screwdriver and the screwdriver to the engine and revved it a bit. no knock. i got in the car, the idle returned to about 1500, oil pressure was a hair below 40psi and all was ok. im afraid that this may be impending doom to some more bearings. anyone else think this is right, or am i paranoid now?

here is what im thinking could be posible causes to a posible problem....
1. oil pump from a 2.8 on the 3.4. im using the 2.8 pump, pickup and pan, could this cause a problem? i know the pickup on the 3.4 pump is bigger, am i under feeding the engine?

2. fuel dilution. i know im running super rich. i can smell it in the exhaust and i can feel it when its running. the oil may have lost its ability to lube due to fuel blowing by the rings. possible?

3. wrong oil for breaking in of bearings. i used reg dino oil, 5w 30. should i have used something else? there is alot of asembly lube still in teh pan, would this cause adverse effets?


it really needs a tune....like really bad. the chip i have in there now has a spot where it leans out at like 3200 to about 3400, and its so rich at idle i had to turn up the idle to about 1700 to keep it from dying at stop signs. thats where my fuel dilution thoughts are deriving. other than that things seem great. the rear calipers are dragging, i dont know what the deal is there, but looking on ogres cave, there is on hell of an adjustment procedure that im gonna have to do tomorrow. and i have some odd noise like something is rattling, its not rpm related and not suspension related. sounds like thin metal dragging or rubbing on somthing. really odd. almost sounded like spark knock, but it doesnt change with rpm and dosent really sound like its coming from internal of the engine. ill figure that out tomorrow also. and last, im going to change the oil and filter tomorrow and dump some mobile in there. i know im not to the 500mile point that most suggest for a broke in engine, but all i changed was the bearings....the cam had previously been broken in, so i think its ready for the slickness of synthetic. but thats all i can think about right now.
IP: Logged
PFF
System Bot
americasfuture2k
Member
Posts: 7131
From: Edmond, Oklahoma
Registered: Jan 2006


Feedback score: (3)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 105
Rate this member

Report this Post02-26-2007 10:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for americasfuture2kSend a Private Message to americasfuture2kDirect Link to This Post
btw the cel is a 35 and a 45 if i remember....either way it was for incorrect idle and oxygen sensor rich...
IP: Logged
Dodgerunner
Member
Posts: 9682
From: Lincoln, Nebraska
Registered: Sep 2004


Feedback score:    (61)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 323
Rate this member

Report this Post02-26-2007 10:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DodgerunnerClick Here to visit Dodgerunner's HomePageClick Here to Email DodgerunnerSend a Private Message to DodgerunnerDirect Link to This Post
Did you replace just one bearing or all of them, I didn't follow for sure?

On my 3.4 I used the 2.8 pickup and pan on a HV 3.4 pump and am having no problem. With all new rod and crank bearings I run 75psi cold and 40 at idle hot. I also hand polished all the crank journals.

I ran RotellaT ? for my breaking oil.
3.4 injectors with the stock prom. Runs just a little rich at idle but crusing normal the INT runs 128 and BLM around 120.
Will probably make some adjustment but overall not bad.

Guess I'd look at the fuel dilution as a possiblity and think if you are replacing bearings you should do all of them and not mix. That might cause a pressure issue since the clearances would be different form one bearing to the next.

I was alway told that cutting corners on rebuilding will come back to haunt you.

Just randon thoughts.

[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 02-26-2007).]

IP: Logged
americasfuture2k
Member
Posts: 7131
From: Edmond, Oklahoma
Registered: Jan 2006


Feedback score: (3)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 105
Rate this member

Report this Post02-26-2007 11:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for americasfuture2kSend a Private Message to americasfuture2kDirect Link to This Post
well the first rebuild, i cut corners, a week later it led to the second rebuild.

this time i did polish the crank by hand, and replace ALL of the bearings.

with the injectors, im running 22lb. ive got the trueleo setup, crane 272, and ported heads. along with heavier springs and the necessary items for the cam. so with all of that i tried the 15lb, 17lb and 19lb. all were off the gauge (a/f) lean. i went to the 22s outa one of my vettes and it was in the rich almost all of the time. but needs some tunning....thats just too much fuel. were talking 140 miles a tank! ill get the datalogging up this week, but not much can be done for now, going to alaska on the 9th for 6 months.
IP: Logged
ICouldaBeenAV8
Member
Posts: 663
From: Chatsworth, California; Clearwater, Florida, and Milwaukee, Wisc.
Registered: Jun 2003


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post02-27-2007 12:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ICouldaBeenAV8Click Here to Email ICouldaBeenAV8Send a Private Message to ICouldaBeenAV8Direct Link to This Post
[QUOTE]Originally posted by americasfuture2k:

well ...snip...anyone else think this is right, or am i paranoid now?

here is what im thinking could be posible causes to a posible problem....
1. oil pump from a 2.8 on the 3.4. im using the 2.8 pump, pickup and pan, could this cause a problem? i know the pickup on the 3.4 pump is bigger, am i under feeding the engine?

2. fuel dilution. i know im running super rich. i can smell it in the exhaust and i can feel it when its running. the oil may have lost its ability to lube due to fuel blowing by the rings. possible?

3. wrong oil for breaking in of bearings. i used reg dino oil, 5w 30. should i have used something else? there is alot of asembly lube still in teh pan, would this cause adverse effets?

My 10 cents:
1. Not likely in the short run to medium run. I once overhauled one of my tow truck's engines and put it back in service. The first time out of the shop on a fifty mile tow, the driver radioed in that he was experiencing low to no oil pressure. Said the oil pressure gauge needle was bouncing off the "0" tick mark. The decision was made to complete the tow as long as the needle showed some movement.

After the truck returned to the shop, it clearly was running fine despite the gauge showing insignificant oil pressure. After checking the gauge and finding it good, we tore down the engine. We found the bolts on the bottom of the oil pump cover plate had backed off to the point that the plate had dropped down almost 3/8 of an inch. Almost all the oil was being pumped right back into the oil pan leaving very little pressure for the engine, yet the bearings looked just like they were brand new (which they were) and there were no score marks in the cylinders.

Engines are loafing at normal speeds and loads (even a tow truck) and require very little lubrication even when new and tight. I can't guess over 30 years in the auto repair business how many times we saw cars that had no oil in them for the usual Jiffy lube reasons and that ran fine after adding oil (well, a few didn't). One of my techs once let a Diamond Reo run for 30 minutes without oil in it without causing a bit of harm. Making power with an engine is a whole different ball game and the lubricity requirements rise drastically.

The bottom line is that the 2.8 pump would not cause problems any time soon unless there was some design incompatibility.

2. Fuel dilution is usually a long term damage type of thing - usually scoring the cylinders first.

3. Probably not to both concerns. Again, in light-duty service as a break-in should be, the brand of oil should not matter. I would go so far as to say almost any oil will work. I've never seen an assembly lube that would not mix with the motor oil and disappear once the engine heated up. It's a pretty violent environment.

You need to establish what caused your original bearing failure.
IP: Logged
americasfuture2k
Member
Posts: 7131
From: Edmond, Oklahoma
Registered: Jan 2006


Feedback score: (3)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 105
Rate this member

Report this Post02-27-2007 01:01 AM Click Here to See the Profile for americasfuture2kSend a Private Message to americasfuture2kDirect Link to This Post
in the original engine (3.4), the bearings were gone when i got the used engine. since i have recieved another engine, and replaced all the bearings, oil pump etc etc. im not totally convinced it has bad bearrings yet. i just saw a flash of the low pressure light and freaked. ill be checking the oil tomorrow when i change it out. ill also note the amount removed, as it could just be low oil.
when it starts cold, the pressure is about 80psi, idling warm its about 35-40psi. but this is with the idle at 1200-1700 rpm. i guess posting is doing me no good, unless i find something to acctually warrant a suspected bearing failure....
IP: Logged
86GT3.4DOHC
Member
Posts: 10007
From: Marion Ohio
Registered: Apr 2004


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 306
Rate this member

Report this Post02-27-2007 07:58 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 86GT3.4DOHCSend a Private Message to 86GT3.4DOHCDirect Link to This Post
Well if you ran with failing bearings, the metal in the oil could have opened up the clearances in the cam bearings, or they could be open from normal wear. Excessive cam bearing wear will have a signifigant impact on oil pressure.

To check for bearing failure, take off the oil filter and pour it out onto some paper, watch the surface for golden "waves" this is the bearing material.

Personaly, I would add in some lucas to stabilize it (keep the oil from thinning out so much), unhook the oil pressure guage and drive it for a week or so. Either its bad or its not, so either you're going to drive it around forever staring at the oil pressure gauge, or you're going to pull the engine out for no reason, or its going to need pulled and rebuilt. If you hear knocking, you know its going out.

BTW, bearings dont break in, normaly, they may need to seat, IE wear into imperfections in a bad crank, but if everything is in good shape, they should be just as good in 1 mile as 1000, they typicaly dont reccomend using full synthetic on a brand new engine so the rings will seat properly, so at any rate conventional oil was the right choice.

[This message has been edited by 86GT3.4DOHC (edited 02-27-2007).]

IP: Logged
Dodgerunner
Member
Posts: 9682
From: Lincoln, Nebraska
Registered: Sep 2004


Feedback score:    (61)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 323
Rate this member

Report this Post02-27-2007 08:31 AM Click Here to See the Profile for DodgerunnerClick Here to visit Dodgerunner's HomePageClick Here to Email DodgerunnerSend a Private Message to DodgerunnerDirect Link to This Post
Have you put a gauge in place of the oil sender yet. I'd check what your pressure is doing with a gauge before I go to worried. The sender could have just gliched the light and it's nothing. Also I don't think a failed bearing would blink the light and go away. If it really failed it would be bad and get worse.

On my 3.4 build my sender pegged the gauge so I replaced mine. After checking the pressure with a gauge I realize that I was running 75+ cold and the old sender was reading to high the the dash gauge never came off the peg. The replacement corrected that.
Yours could just be flaky.
IP: Logged
darkhorizon
Member
Posts: 12222
From: Flint Michigan
Registered: Jan 2006


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 450
Rate this member

Report this Post02-27-2007 01:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for darkhorizonSend a Private Message to darkhorizonDirect Link to This Post
why dont you try tuning the car before you do anything else, as leaning out could cause knock, and knock could help cause more bearing failures, along with some piston damage.
IP: Logged
americasfuture2k
Member
Posts: 7131
From: Edmond, Oklahoma
Registered: Jan 2006


Feedback score: (3)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 105
Rate this member

Report this Post03-01-2007 07:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for americasfuture2kSend a Private Message to americasfuture2kDirect Link to This Post
a quick update, havent gotten to changing the oil, or anything yet....(moved out of apt, and tomorrow morn is the last time i get to see my wife for 7 months before i head to alaska...spending time with her!)

but now i have some nasty valve train noise. cant tell exactly what it is, but it doesnt vary with rpm, but it only happens while the engine is running. ill update more when i find the prob....
IP: Logged
Alex4mula
Member
Posts: 7395
From: Lake Worth, FL,US
Registered: Dec 1999


Feedback score:    (11)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 153
Rate this member

Report this Post03-01-2007 08:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Alex4mulaClick Here to Email Alex4mulaSend a Private Message to Alex4mulaDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by americasfuture2k:

well the first rebuild, i cut corners, a week later it led to the second rebuild.

this time i did polish the crank by hand, and replace ALL of the bearings.

with the injectors, im running 22lb. ive got the trueleo setup, crane 272, and ported heads. along with heavier springs and the necessary items for the cam. so with all of that i tried the 15lb, 17lb and 19lb. all were off the gauge (a/f) lean. i went to the 22s outa one of my vettes and it was in the rich almost all of the time. but needs some tunning....thats just too much fuel. were talking 140 miles a tank! ill get the datalogging up this week, but not much can be done for now, going to alaska on the 9th for 6 months.


22# injectors?? You have other problems but like you said you need a very good tune with 22#. That 3.4 will run even wuth stock ones.
IP: Logged
PFF
System Bot
americasfuture2k
Member
Posts: 7131
From: Edmond, Oklahoma
Registered: Jan 2006


Feedback score: (3)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 105
Rate this member

Report this Post03-02-2007 09:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for americasfuture2kSend a Private Message to americasfuture2kDirect Link to This Post
its dead. dont know what the deal is, knocking bad but oil pressure is great. wont run on its own. changed the oil and no metal in there. plugs were fouled bad. timing as retarded at least 15*, when i set it right i took it ofr a ride it felt great. then i arrived back at the garage and it started to stumble a bit. then the knocking started. then it died. i checked and cleaned the plugs and gave it another shot, same deal. checked the oil again, clean. spark on all 6 plugs. fuel pressure at 38-43. running really rich. engine temp about 190-220. (btw i replaced the water pump today, that was the noise i thought was valvetrain noise was actually a toasted pump)

im pissed, and i leave for alaska in 6 days, looks like i may have to drop it off somewhere for them to rebuild and tune it. i dont even know if i want to look at the car anymore. im sure ill calm down in the morn and take another gander at it. anyone ahve any insight?
IP: Logged
Dodgerunner
Member
Posts: 9682
From: Lincoln, Nebraska
Registered: Sep 2004


Feedback score:    (61)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 323
Rate this member

Report this Post03-02-2007 10:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DodgerunnerClick Here to visit Dodgerunner's HomePageClick Here to Email DodgerunnerSend a Private Message to DodgerunnerDirect Link to This Post
Did you ever look at the timing chain? Any slope in it? You can rock the crank back and forth and watch the dist. shaft to see when it moves.
The old 2.8 I took out of my 85 had 20-30* of slop from the chain and gear wear. Wonder if you could have jumped a tooth.

[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 03-02-2007).]

IP: Logged
americasfuture2k
Member
Posts: 7131
From: Edmond, Oklahoma
Registered: Jan 2006


Feedback score: (3)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 105
Rate this member

Report this Post03-02-2007 10:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for americasfuture2kSend a Private Message to americasfuture2kDirect Link to This Post
ill check that n the morn
IP: Logged
Francis T
Member
Posts: 6620
From: spotsylvania va. usa
Registered: Oct 2003


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 119
Rate this member

Report this Post03-03-2007 07:54 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Francis TClick Here to visit Francis T's HomePageClick Here to Email Francis TSend a Private Message to Francis TDirect Link to This Post
Whatever you determine that first failure to be:

A - I never change just one bearing. May as well bring them all to speck. This one of those 'save a few bucks today and spend whole more latter' things

B - You can never get a journal surface as FLAT & LEVEL (not talking smooth and shinny) by hand polishing as a machine can. By hand you can leave highs and lows that your eyes won't see. It dont take much for some hot oil to eascape. Sometimes you can get lucky and buy some more miles doing it by hand, but if you spun a bearing in my opinon, send the crack out. Yeah it's PIA.

C - Excellant chance you still have grit from that bearing failure in you lube system. It's PIA, but pullying the oil gally plugs etc and cleaning/flushing the system is likely in order.
IP: Logged
americasfuture2k
Member
Posts: 7131
From: Edmond, Oklahoma
Registered: Jan 2006


Feedback score: (3)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 105
Rate this member

Report this Post03-03-2007 11:24 AM Click Here to See the Profile for americasfuture2kSend a Private Message to americasfuture2kDirect Link to This Post
dodge runner: i replaced the timing chain and gears when i got this motor.
the distributor was loose, i didnt tighten the bold down bolt enough when i set the timing before, and after a little driving it retarded its self.

francis: i replaced all of the bearings when i put this one in. i know i cannot be as perfect as a machine, but i dont think i took enough off the the crank to cause a problem. and this is a complete different engien from the last. it is not the same one that had a bearing failure. there are only a few parts shared that actually get oil in them, and they were cleaned befoire the install. like the oilpan, timing cover, oil pressure send tube, and distributor.
IP: Logged
Dodgerunner
Member
Posts: 9682
From: Lincoln, Nebraska
Registered: Sep 2004


Feedback score:    (61)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 323
Rate this member

Report this Post03-03-2007 11:43 AM Click Here to See the Profile for DodgerunnerClick Here to visit Dodgerunner's HomePageClick Here to Email DodgerunnerSend a Private Message to DodgerunnerDirect Link to This Post
So was the loose Dist. your problem this time?
IP: Logged
americasfuture2k
Member
Posts: 7131
From: Edmond, Oklahoma
Registered: Jan 2006


Feedback score: (3)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 105
Rate this member

Report this Post03-03-2007 04:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for americasfuture2kSend a Private Message to americasfuture2kDirect Link to This Post
no, and yes. it was the cause of the retarded timing. but the engine is still knocking and rpms are fluttering at idle. oil pressure is flakey with the rpms. i put new plugs in it about an hr ago. feels smoother, but same problem. this is getting to be tiresome and annoying!
IP: Logged
americasfuture2k
Member
Posts: 7131
From: Edmond, Oklahoma
Registered: Jan 2006


Feedback score: (3)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 105
Rate this member

Report this Post03-04-2007 12:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for americasfuture2kSend a Private Message to americasfuture2kDirect Link to This Post
im gonna drop the pan tomorrow night..... wonder what teh knocking is....
IP: Logged
FieroBrad87
Member
Posts: 743
From: Nevada, Iowa, United States
Registered: Dec 2005


Feedback score: (2)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post04-14-2008 03:39 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroBrad87Click Here to Email FieroBrad87Send a Private Message to FieroBrad87Direct Link to This Post
I may make myself look stupid here but... This is a pushrod or a OHC 3.4L? I know the 3.4L OHC have some sort of an engineering problem that leaves too much end play in the crank and the engine can't take the movement of the clutch. A friend put two engines in a Lumina with a 5 speed and everytime we took the engine out the crank had about 3/4" of endplay. Obviously if this is a 3.4 pushrod or an OHC with an auto you can totally disregard my thought.
IP: Logged
Blue Shift
Member
Posts: 867
From: Antioch, CA
Registered: Oct 2004


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post04-14-2008 07:02 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Blue ShiftClick Here to Email Blue ShiftSend a Private Message to Blue ShiftDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by FieroBrad87:

I may make myself look stupid here but... This is a pushrod or a OHC 3.4L? I know the 3.4L OHC have some sort of an engineering problem that leaves too much end play in the crank and the engine can't take the movement of the clutch. A friend put two engines in a Lumina with a 5 speed and everytime we took the engine out the crank had about 3/4" of endplay. Obviously if this is a 3.4 pushrod or an OHC with an auto you can totally disregard my thought.


...? If the crank could move anywhere close to 3/4", I'd think the rods would be breaking free from the pistons and the bearings would spin... As far as I know (having extensively rebuilt a 3.4L DOHC more than once), it's the same main bearing set as the 2.8, 3.1, and 3.4 OHV engines. If there was anything wrong with the location and configuration of the thrust bearing (#3 main I think?), you'd end up with the same problem on a lot more on other engines, including the stock Fiero 2.8. Even if I were to completely REMOVE the flanged main bearing that takes up thrust loads, the crank couldn't possibly move 3/4" unless the cap and block were horribly worn away, at which point you have much more serious problems. I've heard somebody talk about scary end play (almost 1/4") on a M/T 3.4 DOHC, but I'm not seeing how that's physically possible. Mine measured no more than .005" total endplay when I built it.

Seriously, if it's been documented, I'd like to see it, but it's hard to believe having seen what I've seen.
IP: Logged
PFF
System Bot
FieroBrad87
Member
Posts: 743
From: Nevada, Iowa, United States
Registered: Dec 2005


Feedback score: (2)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post04-14-2008 07:15 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroBrad87Click Here to Email FieroBrad87Send a Private Message to FieroBrad87Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Blue Shift:


...? If the crank could move anywhere close to 3/4", I'd think the rods would be breaking free from the pistons and the bearings would spin... As far as I know (having extensively rebuilt a 3.4L DOHC more than once), it's the same main bearing set as the 2.8, 3.1, and 3.4 OHV engines. If there was anything wrong with the location and configuration of the thrust bearing (#3 main I think?), you'd end up with the same problem on a lot more on other engines, including the stock Fiero 2.8. Even if I were to completely REMOVE the flanged main bearing that takes up thrust loads, the crank couldn't possibly move 3/4" unless the cap and block were horribly worn away, at which point you have much more serious problems. I've heard somebody talk about scary end play (almost 1/4") on a M/T 3.4 DOHC, but I'm not seeing how that's physically possible. Mine measured no more than .005" total endplay when I built it.

Seriously, if it's been documented, I'd like to see it, but it's hard to believe having seen what I've seen.


I'm only quoting what I've seen, I may be exagerating the play a little but two motors came out of the same car knocking with similar amounts of endplay. I'll be honest, out of my top 50 most favorite engines the 3.4L DOHC is about number 50, it's just personal experience, it's not personal.

IP: Logged
SCCAFiero
Member
Posts: 1144
From: Boca Raton, Fl USA
Registered: Apr 2006


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post04-14-2008 08:06 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SCCAFieroClick Here to Email SCCAFieroSend a Private Message to SCCAFieroDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by americasfuture2k:

3. wrong oil for breaking in of bearings. i used reg dino oil, 5w 30. should i have used something else? there is alot of asembly lube still in teh pan, would this cause adverse effets?




No, you used the wrong oil for the cam break-in. It is possible you lost a cam lobe or two. That may very well be your ticking noise. Did you run it at 2000-2500 rpm for 20 minutes to make sure there was enough splash oil in the top end to lube the cam lobes. Did you change the oil after the 20 minutes?

How much assembly lube did you use? I am surprised you can even tell its there after a break in run.

Regular dino oil no longer has enough zinc in it like it used to. This is because of higher emissions standards, the zinc was eliminated or reduced. You need to run a diesel oil such as Rotella for the breakin. Diesel oils still have zinc in them. Also did you remove the new inner valve springs for the break in period. I know Comp Cams requires the inner spring to be removed for break in and then reinstalled afterwards. I know it is a pain on these cars but they said it needs to be done. I doubt Crane is any differant.

Good luck. Been there, done that, learned the hard way. I know the feeling.
IP: Logged
Steven Snyder
Member
Posts: 3311
From: Los Angeles, CA
Registered: Mar 2004


Feedback score: (2)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 106
Rate this member

Report this Post04-14-2008 04:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Steven SnyderClick Here to visit Steven Snyder's HomePageClick Here to Email Steven SnyderSend a Private Message to Steven SnyderDirect Link to This Post
A 3.4 crank regrind including a brand new set of clevite main and rod bearings is $140. Whatever you do inside your motor next, send your crank out. You can't polish the journals by hand and expect to not end up with tapered or ovaled journals, which will just lead to more bearing failure. It sounds like time for a teardown.. remove the cam, lifters, and crank. Your pistons and bores are probably fine; don't bother taking the heads off.
IP: Logged
merlot566jka
Member
Posts: 675
From: Norman, Oklahoma
Registered: Jun 2007


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post04-14-2008 07:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for merlot566jkaClick Here to Email merlot566jkaSend a Private Message to merlot566jkaDirect Link to This Post
well folks that post was made by me 4 engines ago. turned out to be a rod bearing. cam lobes were fine. long story short, im running a 3500 out of an 06 malibu now...

my username used to be americasfuture2k...actually its my brothers profile. he was in a bad accident with his corvette and ended up in a coma for about 4 months. it was a very bad deal. hes recovered and only has very minor problems related to his brain damage. he still posts here time to time.

[This message has been edited by merlot566jka (edited 04-14-2008).]

IP: Logged



All times are ET (US)

T H I S   I S   A N   A R C H I V E D   T O P I C
  

Contact Us | Back To Main Page

Advertizing on PFF | Fiero Parts Vendors
PFF Merchandise | Fiero Gallery | Ogre's Cave
Real-Time Chat | Fiero Related Auctions on eBay



Copyright (c) 1999, C. Pennock