On step closer to what the main cause is. In the third picture down, inspect the pick up-coil, that will be the part with the two wires (green and white) with the red clip. The coiled part and condition of the wires are what you need to be inspecting inparticular. This part is subjected to a lot of heat and the protective heat tape, sometimes between age and heat, deteariates away leaving the copper coils exposed. Now I have had pick up-coils that have had that tape missing and they worked fine for years on the car, but it does not help in the long run and needs to be concidared as part of your problem. I do not know of any way to test one of these so hopefully soemone here can walk you trough on if it is possible, replacing one is not that hard and a good quality replacement is only around $8.00.
Do I have to remove anything to get to it? It's really hard to see as is. Thanks.
Sorry, My bad on the coil pic--checked mine looks the same, I was refering to that crack looking thing in it, the part that surrounds the coil, mine has the same thing, I think what OH10fiero is refering to , is looking at the pick up coil to see if the white tape looking stuff is still surrounding the copper looking stuff, or if its coming apart and getting corrosion/rusted. You have to take the coil out to replace it--But not to inspect it, heres some info on distributor rebuilds from jetman with pics --hope it helps some--again sorry for the worry..
Yep , That would be the one, does your still have that white looking tape around it, or has it fallen apart (like mine) lol... The tube stuff looks like some dieretic grease of some sorts for eletrical parts like these, all I can make out on the tube is: electrical tune up ?? I think grease?
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11:56 AM
krackley Member
Posts: 102 From: Richmond, VA, USA Registered: Sep 2006
Yep , That would be the one, does your still have that white looking tape around it, or has it fallen apart (like mine) lol... The tube stuff looks like some dieretic grease of some sorts for eletrical parts like these, all I can make out on the tube is: electrical tune up ?? I think grease?
Wow, I'm learning so much Obi-Wan.
I noticed on some other links that you can change this out without removing everything. Do I have the newer version? It's a 1986 SE.
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12:07 PM
OH10fiero Member
Posts: 1540 From: struther OH Registered: Jun 2002
They are easy to replace, on the bottom of the distributor on the gear you will see a little pin, just take a round punch and knock it out. From there you can pull the magnet from the top of the distributor, be careful at this point, heat can cause a sludge build up that makes removing the magnet and shaft difficult. If yours seems to stick push the shaft back in carfully and spray in PB Blast and clean with carb cleaner, this will disolve all the gunk build up inside allowing you to remove the shaft. Once the magnet and shaft are out (one piece, very important that magnet stay press mounted on the shaft) you can then get the pick up-coil off the distributor houseing. The clip is easy to get off so that you can remove the pick up-coil, getting the new one on can take some patiance at times but nothing too hard. Very important this part. When you have the pick up-coli off now is a good time to get a very soft nylon brush like a pipe cleaner and some chemicals that will disolve grime and give the distributor insides a good cleaning, as well as the shft with the top magnet mounted on it. Even more important is to lube the inside housing backup before reasembling after you install a new pick up-coil. Failure to do the second part will result in buying a new distributor, trust me on this, I am happy to say I learned from someone elses misstake on this one
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12:47 PM
OH10fiero Member
Posts: 1540 From: struther OH Registered: Jun 2002
I noticed on some other links that you can change this out without removing everything. Do I have the newer version? It's a 1986 SE.
You have a redesigned distributor, the one in the photos you found were what came from the factory. Around the mid to late 90's GM had so many problems with failures that they were forced to redesign them since some of thier cars (wanna say it was accualy the truck line) that used the 2.8-3.4 family engine did not switch over to DIS. Also the parts are interchangeable so you can goto a junk yard, and if you find a distrbutor with the updated change you can buy it and dissasemble both units and rebuild it for our cars. What you need to do is carfully have the magnet pressed off the old shaft and repressed onto the one from your Fiero ( the shafts were different lenghts and had a different way to drive the oil pump) and the little housing that the magnet sits into when everthing is reassembled and thats it, new and more reliable distributor.
I think you do have the new style distributor, if its the one on page 2, the one on page 3 or this page is jetmans rebuild one right? from the link I put in. I believe you can do everything needed from the top of these new style ones, mine look like the page 2 ones, so I know you have the newer one, it doesn`t have anything to do with the year and model , it somewhere down the road was replaced with the newer style, until I fork over the bucks and get one, I can`t say whole lot of info on the workings, shouldn`t be to much difference --I think you won`t need to remove this style anymore for replacement parts, I think OH10fiero saw the one right above your post and thought that was yours---I did too when I first saw it--I`m going to bed now..lol....
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01:04 PM
krackley Member
Posts: 102 From: Richmond, VA, USA Registered: Sep 2006
I think you do have the new style distributor, if its the one on page 2, the one on page 3 or this page is jetmans rebuild one right? from the link I put in. I believe you can do everything needed from the top of these new style ones, mine look like the page 2 ones, so I know you have the newer one, it doesn`t have anything to do with the year and model , it somewhere down the road was replaced with the newer style, until I fork over the bucks and get one, I can`t say whole lot of info on the workings, shouldn`t be to much difference --I think you won`t need to remove this style anymore for replacement parts, I think OH10fiero saw the one right above your post and thought that was yours---I did too when I first saw it--I`m going to bed now..lol....
Yes, the one on page 2 is mine, this one . . .
So I can replace the coil from the top instead? If so, what do I do? I guess I start with removing the three phillips screws on top?
Sorry for all the questions.
[This message has been edited by krackley (edited 10-16-2006).]
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01:38 PM
PFF
System Bot
OH10fiero Member
Posts: 1540 From: struther OH Registered: Jun 2002
Sorry, but I have not had the need to take one of the newer style distributors apart, thought they came apart the same way. I have had no dealings with thess so I will not be able to answer any questions on dissasembly.
If you can get some different angle shots of it , I`ll give a try. If we can`t figure it out, may want to start another post on just the *new version distributor* ...Or try the archives--it may be in there..
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02:48 AM
krackley Member
Posts: 102 From: Richmond, VA, USA Registered: Sep 2006
Well, I've got an update, I decided to put everything back together. I put the heat-sink on the module and cleaned the pins and put it back on. Then plugged everything back in. Made sure the plug wires were correct per the Haynes Manual's firing order for the V6. Went to start it and it would pretty much start everytime I tried, but it would cut off immediately. It would make a "puhhh" sound after it turned over and then cut off. Never actually got it to stay running.
It's raining all day today so I won't be able to do anything.
[This message has been edited by krackley (edited 10-17-2006).]
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08:32 AM
krackley Member
Posts: 102 From: Richmond, VA, USA Registered: Sep 2006
If you can get some different angle shots of it , I`ll give a try. If we can`t figure it out, may want to start another post on just the *new version distributor* ...Or try the archives--it may be in there..
I'll get some other angles of it later this week. I know you're looking forward to it.
Just re-read the entire thread/post, maybe we should approach this, from the fuel side of things, it seems to be cranking, it did stay started a couple times and you drove it until it stopped on you. Why not try a fuel pressure test, to see what it is, and go from there...
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08:53 AM
krackley Member
Posts: 102 From: Richmond, VA, USA Registered: Sep 2006
Just re-read the entire thread/post, maybe we should approach this, from the fuel side of things, it seems to be cranking, it did stay started a couple times and you drove it until it stopped on you. Why not try a fuel pressure test, to see what it is, and go from there...
Yep, looks like I've got some reading to do. One question; How could the fuel have been messed up when I Gunked my engine? Any ideas? I mean, my car ran perfect until I did the "Gunking". How do I do a fuel pressure test? Maybe I'll search for fule pressure test.
Theres wiring to the pump & relay right on the firewall , also theres wiring to your injectors/harness right under the plentum, your regulator , fuel rail , injectors , fuel block , along with some of the vac lines are under there too. Auto zone has these same ones for under 30.00 bucks... http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16174 http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/us60324.htm
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10:32 AM
Oct 19th, 2006
OH10fiero Member
Posts: 1540 From: struther OH Registered: Jun 2002
They have fuel pressure gauges for 1/2 the price at www.harborfreight.com if that helps any...They just don`t have the fancy hose for exspelling the gas--but will get the job done...
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08:26 AM
PFF
System Bot
RandomTask Member
Posts: 4539 From: Alexandria, VA Registered: Apr 2005
I appreciate the invite Randomtask. I also found another member who actually lives close to my neighborhood - "Chump".
I'm thinking of just towing it to the Midas shop where an owner used to own a Fiero. He's taken a liking to the car since I had it in there for the tune-up.
I'd love to work on it, and I've learned alot with the help of you guys. I just don't have the tools and the know-how to complete this task. Perhaps one day . . . .
I'll keep you posted and let you know what happens.
[This message has been edited by krackley (edited 10-19-2006).]
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03:53 PM
krackley Member
Posts: 102 From: Richmond, VA, USA Registered: Sep 2006
Everything looks good by the shown photos, you can just clean the pins on the ignition module to see if that helps, since it is out have it tested. And yes the inside of the distrbutior will get some surface rust over time, you can clean that up as well. Your real problem is when you see rust build up in there, thats when you have an issue that needs to be addresed, by the way you have an after market distibutor, these are 10X's more reliable than stock. Before I forget, the paste on the bottom of the module needs to be there, you can pick up a tube of it at Radio Shack, have yet to see the stuff sold at a auto store. It is a heat sink paste, do not put teh module back on with out it or you WILL be replaceing it in short order.
OHIO,
Are you referring to the entire distributor that was aftermarket, or just the distributor cap? What is the 10X?
[This message has been edited by krackley (edited 10-19-2006).]
My car is running again. I just picked it up from Midas and everything is back to normal. He said they cleaned out the distributor real good and double checked the plug wires. I could have had them on wrong, I don't know.
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05:36 PM
OH10fiero Member
Posts: 1540 From: struther OH Registered: Jun 2002
Glad to hear it. I had a similar problem with two wires crossed on the distruibutor, it's the little things that seem to get you when you least expect it. Just wish I suggested that you check the wires to see if they are in correct order earlier in the thread <<hangs head in shame since I made the same mistake in the past>>
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08:06 PM
Oct 21st, 2006
krackley Member
Posts: 102 From: Richmond, VA, USA Registered: Sep 2006
Glad to hear it. I had a similar problem with two wires crossed on the distruibutor, it's the little things that seem to get you when you least expect it. Just wish I suggested that you check the wires to see if they are in correct order earlier in the thread <<hangs head in shame since I made the same mistake in the past>>
Don't sweat it OHIO! You guys really stepped up and delivered.
krackley, Glad to hear the good news----I hope they didn`t hit you to bad in the wallet... Well you still have your winaldl now to learn right?
Nope, he charged me the standard for diagnostic service for 30 minutes, $49. I was expecting it to be like $400 or something bad when he called me back to tell me it was ready.
And I ordered the USB ALDL cable from Bob. He was really helpfull in letting me know exactly which one I'd need. And with your help, I learned alot about my car.
[This message has been edited by krackley (edited 10-22-2006).]
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12:48 PM
PFF
System Bot
Oct 27th, 2006
krackley Member
Posts: 102 From: Richmond, VA, USA Registered: Sep 2006
Well, my car cut off on me today. Luckily while I was pulling into my neighborhood. I'm getting it towed to the Midas again. I'm also going to have them install the O2 sensor.
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01:19 PM
OH10fiero Member
Posts: 1540 From: struther OH Registered: Jun 2002
Have them re-check the igniton module again, as these things are the downfall of the Fiero, and have them inspect all ground straps, downfall of any car 20+ years old. Good luck, hope its something simple.
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07:38 PM
Oct 30th, 2006
krackley Member
Posts: 102 From: Richmond, VA, USA Registered: Sep 2006
Have them re-check the igniton module again, as these things are the downfall of the Fiero, and have them inspect all ground straps, downfall of any car 20+ years old. Good luck, hope its something simple.
When he called me back, he mentioned the ignition coil was getting hot and so was the ignition module. I told him to replace the module and make sure to put the heat-sink on. I put it on myself and I'm sure I didn't put it on thick enough. I'm also going to have him replace the ignition coil. As for the O2 sensor, he said that would only run $25 to replace. I had ordered one from Rock Solid and wantd to get that done while it was in the shop.
I'll mention the ground straps to him as well. Thanks OHIO
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12:53 PM
OH10fiero Member
Posts: 1540 From: struther OH Registered: Jun 2002
When he called me back, he mentioned the ignition coil was getting hot and so was the ignition module. I told him to replace the module and make sure to put the heat-sink on. I put it on myself and I'm sure I didn't put it on thick enough. I'm also going to have him replace the ignition coil. As for the O2 sensor, he said that would only run $25 to replace. I had ordered one from Rock Solid and wantd to get that done while it was in the shop.
I'll mention the ground straps to him as well. Thanks OHIO
If he has not gotten the O2 yet you might want to concider a Bosh O2, they seem to work the best over a longer period of time, part #12014. They do cost a bit more $10.00 to $20.00 pending on where you get it from, but I personaly have gotten an few extra years of reliable function from them. If your coil is too hot see if your coil cooling fan is working. This can be a bit difficult as the car needs to be runnning and the pully system will be causing air pressure in the area you need to be checking. While the car is running either you or your mechanic put your thier hand over that little tube that appears to be pointing at the coil, you should feel a air comming from that tube, if not the fan may not be working. The fan is located behind the carpet in on the top left side of your trunk, pending on year the fan will be either in the trunk or mounted in the rear fender wall. This fan is for cooling your coil as well as your alt, I have never had a problem in any of my V6's so if it is not working I do not know what options you have to correct this. Also did you happen to have any vacum leaks while the car was running like a high idle? A vacum leak can cause other problems like a hotter exhaust manifold, more heat under the hood....................well you now know what heat can do to electronic parts. Good luck.
[This message has been edited by OH10fiero (edited 10-30-2006).]
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02:04 PM
Jan 18th, 2007
krackley Member
Posts: 102 From: Richmond, VA, USA Registered: Sep 2006
It's been a while, but I just wanted to let everybody know that since the ignition coil has been replaced that the car has been running like a dream. Other than my squealing I mentioned on another post, I'm sitting pretty. I'm going to post a picture of my ride soon as well.
I also wanted to take this opportunity to thank you folks for all the help.
[This message has been edited by krackley (edited 01-18-2007).]
Thanks for posting the fix/solution for the archives-- is there anyway you can get pic up of your new-updated distributor, I was looking for it the other day in this post to show another member and it didn`t come through for some reason.
well i washed my engine ysterday an water got in the tps and fried it it was ideling about 2000 but when i changed the tps it runs fine now so i will be sure to cover that next time...
Tony
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10:20 AM
Mar 14th, 2008
krackley Member
Posts: 102 From: Richmond, VA, USA Registered: Sep 2006
well i washed my engine ysterday an water got in the tps and fried it it was ideling about 2000 but when i changed the tps it runs fine now so i will be sure to cover that next time...
Tony
Yeah, I guess we just need to let our engines get dirty and deal with it.