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Paint questions #2 by GKDINC
Started on: 11-27-2007 05:24 PM
Replies: 9
Last post by: Tha Driver on 11-28-2007 05:44 PM
GKDINC
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Report this Post11-27-2007 05:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for GKDINCSend a Private Message to GKDINCDirect Link to This Post
I want to paint the body one color and the trim (molding) another color. What do you paint first the body or the trim?
Thanks
Gary
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Dodgerunner
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Report this Post11-27-2007 05:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DodgerunnerClick Here to visit Dodgerunner's HomePageClick Here to Email DodgerunnerSend a Private Message to DodgerunnerDirect Link to This Post
I think you want to paint the lighter color first. So if your doing the factory two tone you would do the bottom first.

Someone will correct that if it's wrong.

I believe the reasoning is if you get some dark overspray on a lighter color it does not show as bad as light on dark.
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Tha Driver
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Report this Post11-27-2007 06:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tha DriverClick Here to visit Tha Driver's HomePageSend a Private Message to Tha DriverDirect Link to This Post
Dosen't matter. Do it right & take the trim off the car.
If you want to half-a$$ it, paint the body first, then the trim. Make sure to use a plastic primer on the trim so that the paint will stick.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

America - made in China!
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rogergarrison
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Report this Post11-27-2007 08:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonClick Here to Email rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonDirect Link to This Post
Everyone has their own preference. Aircraft are generally painted that way....all over , then all masked to do the stripes or in your case moldings. Some of the molding like in the bumper is molded on so not removeable. The way i do it, whether stripes or whatever is to paint the smallest area first. If Im doing stripes, I paint them, mask them and shoot the rest. Then take off the masking tape and clear it all together. My way, especially on an airplane saves lots of hours and hours of masking, not to mention all the paper and tape. I never got why they would always spray the whole plane white, then cover every inch of the plane with paper so they could paint a 6" stripe. Same with the black moldings. Just seems easier, faster , and cheaper with same end result.. to paint the molding, mask it with 3/4" tape, then paint the car. I do pinstripes the same way, spray on the stripe color in the area they are to be and use 1/8" or 1/16" tape to make them, then paint the car. Then pull the tape and clear it. Pinstripe is permanent and cant be rubbed off. also no edges to the line to feel.
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Tha Driver
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Report this Post11-27-2007 10:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tha DriverClick Here to visit Tha Driver's HomePageSend a Private Message to Tha DriverDirect Link to This Post
The trim color will be a lot thinner than the body paint. If you paint the trim first that's molded in (like the bumpers), you'll have a *very* thick edge after painting 5 or 6 coats of base/clear. Paint the body, then the trim - use roll plastic to cover the car (takes about 10 minites).
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Hey Leroy, what'cha doin' dragging that chain across the floor?
Leroy: "Ever tried *pushing* a chain?"
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rogergarrison
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Report this Post11-28-2007 06:23 AM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonClick Here to Email rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonDirect Link to This Post
My way, you will only have the 2 coats of basecoat color to leave an edge because I clear the whole thing so there are no thick edges..in fact there are no edges at all. While 'throwing' on a plastic sheet is easy theres more to it than that. You have to tape from both edges of the stripe, then paper from that...then you can fill in the rest with plastic sheet cut and trimmed to approximate size. That will take more time and material than me just running a strip of masking tape alll around the car on the molding. The exception would be if you are just doing the black molding, you can do it with satin black spray can enamel. Then you only have to mask off with 3 or 4 inch paper on both sides and any overspray can be polished off with wax or compound. In some cases, you can even wipe the overspray off with wax and grease cleaner.

again like I always say, everyone does it their own way.
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Alex4mula
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Report this Post11-28-2007 08:34 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Alex4mulaClick Here to Email Alex4mulaSend a Private Message to Alex4mulaDirect Link to This Post
Last time I did mine I removed all trim pieces. Not that hard and Rodney sells clips if you brake some. I painted the fixed front and rear when the car came from bodyshop. Some good masking and I didn't have any overspray to clean. You don't use that much paint on those strips. Very easy.
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Tha Driver
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Report this Post11-28-2007 01:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tha DriverClick Here to visit Tha Driver's HomePageSend a Private Message to Tha DriverDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by rogergarrison:

My way, you will only have the 2 coats of basecoat color to leave an edge because I clear the whole thing so there are no thick edges..in fact there are no edges at all. While 'throwing' on a plastic sheet is easy theres more to it than that. You have to tape from both edges of the stripe, then paper from that...then you can fill in the rest with plastic sheet cut and trimmed to approximate size. That will take more time and material than me just running a strip of masking tape alll around the car on the molding. The exception would be if you are just doing the black molding, you can do it with satin black spray can enamel. Then you only have to mask off with 3 or 4 inch paper on both sides and any overspray can be polished off with wax or compound. In some cases, you can even wipe the overspray off with wax and grease cleaner.

again like I always say, everyone does it their own way.


But the moldings are supposed to be semi-flat, unless you are doing them the same color as the car, in which case there's no need for taping at all. I guess some guys will paint their moldings a contrast color in gloss then your method would work great.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Of all the things I've lost over the years, I miss my mind the most!
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rogergarrison
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Report this Post11-28-2007 03:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonClick Here to Email rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonDirect Link to This Post
Ya, i like them satin black myself. But lots of the people here put tons of different dressings on them to make them shine, clearing eliminates that. I also hate anything shiney on tires....looks fake as hell. I rather just clean them good with bleech-white or fantastic. Funniest thing I ever seen at a car show was a custom motorcycle all buried with Armor All on all the rubber. He took off after the show and the tires slid right out from under it. Back on subject...On my own stuff like the Fiero and my vette, I just masked it with a 4" handymask and used Krylon Semi Flat spray can. Then just used prep sol and wiped any overspray off. Its been fine on the vette for 2 or 3 years now.
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Tha Driver
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Report this Post11-28-2007 05:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tha DriverClick Here to visit Tha Driver's HomePageSend a Private Message to Tha DriverDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by rogergarrison:

Ya, i like them satin black myself.
(snip)
Back on subject...On my own stuff like the Fiero and my vette, I just masked it with a 4" handymask and used Krylon Semi Flat spray can. Then just used prep sol and wiped any overspray off. Its been fine on the vette for 2 or 3 years now.

So we're back to what I said to paint the car first....
BTW if anyone uses this method (only taping back 4") you have to spray the semi-flat very close to the molding & move it very quickly to minimize overspray. For the beginer I would suggest taping back 12" or 18" at least.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Not sure where we're going but, no sense in being late!
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