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ARRRGG!! oil pan gasket! by 5speedsup
Started on: 10-29-2007 06:42 PM
Replies: 11
Last post by: uhlanstan on 10-31-2007 09:49 AM
5speedsup
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Report this Post10-29-2007 06:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 5speedsupSend a Private Message to 5speedsupDirect Link to This Post
Can someone PLEASE tell me what oil pan gasket they recommend for the 3.4. All I've been able to find have been the two piece cork gasket and I've had nothing but trouble with them. I've gone through three of them and they all leak, soaking my whole under carrage with oil. When I torque the pan bolts to spec. the gasket around the bolts likes to push out and tear, does anyone else have this problem?
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Report this Post10-29-2007 09:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for HudiniClick Here to Email HudiniSend a Private Message to HudiniDirect Link to This Post
I just replaced mine about a week ago with no issues so something is up with yours. Ok, what year is your oil pan and front cover from? Did you use the Camaro or the Fiero oil pan?

Also, you say 2 piece cork gasket. Do you mean the cork with the open rear portion and the separate rubber piece?

What are you using to torque the oil pan bolts?

I have an '86. I used the Fiero timing chain cover / water pump housing and oil pan. First I placed the rubber piece with the little tabs stuck into the little square slots. Those slots need cleaning as gunk can build up in there which makes the rubber piece stick out too far. Since I did this with the engine still in the car I had to use RTV to stick the gasket to the block. Just used a smear all along the bottom of the block, not thick at all. After holding the gasket in place for a minute or two I could let go of it and work on getting the oil pan in place. Once the pan is in position then I torqued the pan bolts to (IIRC) 85 inch/pounds. This is not much torque and not to be confused with foot/pounds. If you are doing it by hand then it would be easy to over torque the bolts. I used an inch/pound torque wrench. This is the smallest one available with a 1/4" drive. You can just barely hear and feel it click when it hits your target torque.
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jetman
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Report this Post10-29-2007 09:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jetmanClick Here to visit jetman's HomePageClick Here to Email jetmanSend a Private Message to jetmanDirect Link to This Post
Try a product called "The Right Stuff", it's a gasket sealant, you can find it at larger auto parts stores. The PITA about gaskets is that the mating surfaces must be perfectly clean, the torque and sequence must be correct too. Best advice is to check a manual for exact amounts and placement of the sealant along with torque settings.
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josef644
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Report this Post10-29-2007 10:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for josef644Click Here to Email josef644Send a Private Message to josef644Direct Link to This Post
Make sure that the mounting face of the pan is flat, and not pushed up from tightening it with a gasket under it. I use "The Right Stuff" also. Clean all parts with laquier thinner before using "The Right Stuff". Use Q tips to get all of the oil from the bolt holes and end pieces gruve.
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5speedsup
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Report this Post10-29-2007 10:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 5speedsupSend a Private Message to 5speedsupDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Hudini:


Also, you say 2 piece cork gasket. Do you mean the cork with the open rear portion and the separate rubber piece?

What are you using to torque the oil pan bolts?



Yeah thats the one, and yes I used a in/lbs torque wench. And as far as cleaning the mating surfaces I made sure that they were clean by using gasket cleaner/remover and then drying. I guess I'll try "The Right Stuff" and see what happens. By the way its an '85 using the fiero pan and timing cover.
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Hudini
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Report this Post10-30-2007 08:01 AM Click Here to See the Profile for HudiniClick Here to Email HudiniSend a Private Message to HudiniDirect Link to This Post
Ok, where is the leak happening? Is it the same spot every time? I'm wondering if your oil pan is tweaked somehow. Maybe the bolt holes have been warped from a previous owner over tightening. I hate oil leaks too.
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jetman
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Report this Post10-30-2007 08:05 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jetmanClick Here to visit jetman's HomePageClick Here to Email jetmanSend a Private Message to jetmanDirect Link to This Post
I sure wished that some of the other 3.4 guys could chime in here for you. There always is a location or two that requires and extra squirt of gasket sealant, I keep thinking that we're missing something for you here.

The other trick is to add some ultraviolet dye marker to the oil and see EXACTLY where the oil is leaking from with an UV light. The dye marker is cheap, maybe $7.00 at auto parts store and I've used a "party light" that I purchased at the local hardware store. Party light isn't that strong but works very well at dusk. Maybe identifying the exact leak points will help you seal them up. Some of us have used teflon thread tape on the oil pan bolts too.

Here's a bump, maybe some more folks will chime in here for you.
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James Bond 007
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Report this Post10-30-2007 06:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for James Bond 007Send a Private Message to James Bond 007Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by 5speedsup:


Yeah thats the one, and yes I used a in/lbs torque wench. And as far as cleaning the mating surfaces I made sure that they were clean by using gasket cleaner/remover and then drying. I guess I'll try "The Right Stuff" and see what happens. By the way its an '85 using the fiero pan and timing cover.

I would definately try and get a one piece gasket.Sounds to me like your tightening the oil pan down too tight (it's basically a dust cover,sort of.I know someone will disagree).I just snug up the bolts and thats it.

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Hudini
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Report this Post10-30-2007 07:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for HudiniClick Here to Email HudiniSend a Private Message to HudiniDirect Link to This Post
Maybe someone has the answer to the one piece gasket. When I bought my replacement gasket, the parts guy asked me if I have the replacement pan that uses the one piece rubber gasket. I have the original pan so I said no and never did get a look at the one piece. When I first did my 3.4L swap I used the Camaro pan and timing chain cover (mistake) and used a one piece rubber gasket that fit very nice. I'm wondering if anyone has had a look at the one piece rubber gasket?
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5speedsup
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Report this Post10-30-2007 07:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 5speedsupSend a Private Message to 5speedsupDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Hudini:

Ok, where is the leak happening? Is it the same spot every time? I'm wondering if your oil pan is tweaked somehow. Maybe the bolt holes have been warped from a previous owner over tightening. I hate oil leaks too.


It seems to leak all the way around the oil pan. And with the car up on stands I can start it up and watch it seep out from the gasket. I also get drips of oil coming off the starter. Pretty much every thing is coated in oil, frame, wiring harness, exhaust(AARRG!!).
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Report this Post10-31-2007 08:33 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PyrthianClick Here to Email PyrthianSend a Private Message to PyrthianDirect Link to This Post
no gasket, except the rubber one on the end - all else is RTV.
I hate cork too.
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uhlanstan
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Report this Post10-31-2007 09:49 AM Click Here to See the Profile for uhlanstanClick Here to Email uhlanstanSend a Private Message to uhlanstanDirect Link to This Post
Sounds like something is not flat .. you need to check the pan with a flat edge perferibly a short level,all the gasket goo recomended is good the best is G M X I may have the letter wrong as Ive never used it ,I have heard mechanic on auto repair talk shows rave about it(I need a life).. you should not need a sealer!! the sealant is as much to hold the gasket in place as to seal..a leak at different places is normally from being overtighten,of course you check the block,but many leaks indicate the pan is overtighten.. this screws the pan up ..to straighten..you use a flat wood dowel ,or use what works,,lay it on flat surface.. do not use metal or plastic..the small hills created by overtighten are pressed or hammered back to flat.. the raised bolt hole make it difficult to draw the bolts tight and also pull the gasket with it ,, the bolts are tight but the gasket is not pressed firmly against the pan,, with a perfect pan with no gasket you can press it against the block,and the pan would 100% be flush,, was the engine ever overheated really bad?unlikely the block is warped but possible..is this the pan that came from the factory with the engine???if not check the part # for both engines
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