Changed my oil today and noticed now my pressure is lower than ever and it even red lined twice when taking sharp left turns Maybe I starved the pump when draining and re-filling and it's on it's last leg? This really sucks because I just replaced the oil pan a few months ago Anyone else experience this after an oil change?

[This message has been edited by Gokart (edited 10-20-2007).]

I have had some wild pressure gauge readings when changing the oil UNLESS I fill the new oil filter completely before putting it in. Maybe the issue ? ? Ed

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Have you re-checked the oil levels?

The red-line on a turn sounds like the oil is sloshing away from the pump, being too low.

quote Originally posted by Firefighter: I have had some wild pressure gauge readings when changing the oil UNLESS I fill the new oil filter completely before putting it in. Maybe the issue ? ? Ed

I've heard of doing this and I've got to start doing it! I just don't know how you do it without spilling it all over your hand, etc.

quote Originally posted by Xanth: Have you re-checked the oil levels? The red-line on a turn sounds like the oil is sloshing away from the pump, being too low.

I did check....then re-checked! I'll triple check. It's so hard to see it when it's fresh. I did drill two holes through the stick to see it better and it looks pretty close to full. 4 quarts in the 2.8....right!

[This message has been edited by Gokart (edited 10-20-2007).]

to see the new oil on my dipstick i painted the level area with red paint works good

Yes, you do get oil all over your hands, It's good for your skin. Ed

quote Originally posted by Firefighter: Yes, you do get oil all over your hands, It's good for your skin. Ed

I've always done my own changes so obviously I don't mind getting a little oil on me but the angle that the filter goes in plus finagleing it in between the exhaust can't be too easy. Can someone confirm the 4 qts for me. I'm 99% sure about the capacity. I hope I'm wrong because I'm probably looking at replacing the pump.

Yes,, 4 quarts plus a few ounces for the filter.

I put closer to 4.5 quarts in my 88 2.8 , but I believe 4 is correct. The dipstick is nearly worthless with fresh oil

[This message has been edited by Xanth (edited 10-20-2007).]

my car always took a little more than 4 quarts, and if it was low it would do the same thing around corners. i would check it again and put more in if its not up close to the top line.

I'll add a little more and go for a spin. If it doesn't improve my pressure maybe I'll switch weight until I get a chance to get the pan off again and replace the pump. If I'm using 5w-30 now what weight should I try considering cold NE temperatures? Thanks for all these replies!

I'm using Castrol 5W-30 right now with no problems, I used to go 10W40 on my older cars, but that just masks the problem really.

Do you have the owner's manual? I think there is a diagram in there with oil recommendations based on Temperature, though I believe for our area 5W30 is still the recommended weight.

quote Originally posted by Gokart: I've always done my own changes so obviously I don't mind getting a little oil on me but the angle that the filter goes in plus finagleing it in between the exhaust can't be too easy. Can someone confirm the 4 qts for me. I'm 99% sure about the capacity. I hope I'm wrong because I'm probably looking at replacing the pump.

The Haynes manual says 4.5 qts. I changed mine yesterday and used 5 quarts with a remote mount V8 filter and external oil cooler.

Mine took 4.5 quarts. Ive never prefilled a filter. I buy the filter with the valve in it. never takes more than a few seconds to get pressure. Maybe you got some crap in the oil pressure sender that giving a false reading. I always use 5-50w oil myself in everything year round and never have had any problems.

quote Originally posted by Xanth: I'm using Castrol 5W-30 right now with no problems, I used to go 10W40 on my older cars, but that just masks the problem really. Do you have the owner's manual? I think there is a diagram in there with oil recommendations based on Temperature, though I believe for our area 5W30 is still the recommended weight.

Found it. You're right about sticking with 5w-30.

quote Originally posted by Hudini: The Haynes manual says 4.5 qts. I changed mine yesterday and used 5 quarts with a remote mount V8 filter and external oil cooler.

Owners manual shows 4.0 but I'll add another half qt tomorrow and will hopefully bring the pressure back up. I was going to do it tonight but now the Red Sox are coming on I'm wondering if 1/2 a qt should make that much of a difference if my pump is working properly? Thanks again and I'll bump this up with results of adding more oil tomorrow.


Roger...where do I get a filter with a valve in it?

I think most all filters now have the anti-drainback valve, if that's the valve he's referring too. If you look at the filter, I believe the rubber-looking material behind the small holes is the drainback valve.

http://minimopar.knizefamil.../oilfilterstudy.html

I've been using the regular fram PH filters, and deliberately avoid any of those filters that have additives built in. I used to use the XG filters, but I decided it wasn't worth it when changing the oil every 3k, the XG's are rated for around 7k miles I believe.

As an added note, I mistakenly drove my 2.8 for nearly a week 1 quart low on oil but never had low oil pressure. Same with my 2.8 Firebird, when I got it no oil on the dipstick, but excellent pressure.

[This message has been edited by Xanth (edited 10-20-2007).]

1. What was the oil pressure like before the oil change?
2. Did you change oil filter brands? I always use Fram. All Frams are 2 micron filters. Some cheap oil filters have such huge holes that it lowers the oil pressure somewhat and doesn't filter as well.
3. I see that you are using 5W-30. Is this synthetic? I once used Mobil 1 synthetic and my oil pressure was always in the red. Highest oil pressure I could get was 40 lb at startup and it went down from there. Hot idle would show 5 lbs or 0, although I know it was actually higher. Switched back to Valvoline Dura-lube and oil pressure went back to normal. I now get 70 - 80 lbs on startup and 40 lbs at hot idle. My guess is that synthetic was too thin for my 142,000 mile engine.

running 5w-30 will yield lower oil pressures than 10w30. when youre dealing with a car of this age and mileage, i would never run a 5w oil in it. the reason auto manufacturers use 5w and thinner is for a fractional amount of benefit in fuel mileage and emission levels. thinner oils will leak more as well. its also been my experience that a synthetic oil will "act" like a lighter weight oil than what its labeled as, for example a synthetic 10w30 will be thinner than a conventional 10w30

[This message has been edited by Hurricane (edited 10-20-2007).]

quote Originally posted by niemann99: 1. What was the oil pressure like before the oil change? 2. Did you change oil filter brands? I always use Fram. All Frams are 2 micron filters. Some cheap oil filters have such huge holes that it lowers the oil pressure somewhat and doesn't filter as well. 3. I see that you are using 5W-30. Is this synthetic? I once used Mobil 1 synthetic and my oil pressure was always in the red. Highest oil pressure I could get was 40 lb at startup and it went down from there. Hot idle would show 5 lbs or 0, although I know it was actually higher. Switched back to Valvoline Dura-lube and oil pressure went back to normal. I now get 70 - 80 lbs on startup and 40 lbs at hot idle. My guess is that synthetic was too thin for my 142,000 mile engine.

1. Not that high. Usually floats between 50-60.
2. No change and I always use Fram too. Never noticed the hole issue. I've always used them because their longer and have the nice textured grip on the end!
3. No synthetic. I always use conventional Valvoline.

quote Originally posted by Hurricane: running 5w-30 will yield lower oil pressures than 10w30. when youre dealing with a car of this age and mileage, i would never run a 5w oil in it. the reason auto manufacturers use 5w and thinner is for a fractional amount of benefit in fuel mileage and emission levels. thinner oils will leak more as well. its also been my experience that a synthetic oil will "act" like a lighter weight oil than what its labeled as, for example a synthetic 10w30 will be thinner than a conventional 10w30

Hmm...something I'll defineatly consider if I do not get a good result after topping off my oil tomorrow. Thanks for the input! Postive ratings to all that replied unless you already got one from me in the past!
Gotta get back to the Sox! We're clobbering the Indians

Hurricane is right on .especially in older engines you need a heavier grade,only in a new engine or rebuilt should you run 5w 30,or you can use it when temps are real low for months..in an engine that uses oil you should never fill to top the blowby and harden worn oilseals cause the top 1/3 quart to exit the engine quickly, that puff of smoke when you start in morning, and when you leave stop lite is oil burning,,with older engine you need to know usage>> better to save this quickly burned oil and add as needed ,just check 100 miles after change then at 500 miles then at 1000 miles to see where you are at with excessive consumption,once you know you can add accordingly. if it drops slowly then fill close to top

I just changed my oil TO 5w30, got 114k miles on a V6. I use Castrol GTX High mileage and a can of Engine restore 6 cyl formula. Works great. My oil pressure always redlines if I'm stopped after the engine has run for about 5 minutes (it did it before the change too), but I'm pretty sure at this point it's the non- AC Delco sender I've got in there. We'll see. I've also got a leak at the front seal, but not a substantial one (i.e., I top off the oil maybe every 500 miles). I also get that wonderful gray smoke at startup, but that's because I have a wee bit of oil leaking around the valves. I figure I'll run it until it dies...that will give me the excuse to get the 3800sc and 4t65eHD trans.

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1986 SE V6, stock, auto, fastback. GT Trim and Body panels.

Your Guage is probibly off check with a remote guage to plug.

Do NOT top off at 500 milesif you check your usage you will find the first 1/8 to 1/4 quart disapears fast .. the pressure comming thru the oil seals ,worn valve guides and rings with 120,000 mile on them causes very heavy oil usage when you top off to full level, this does you no good this oil is rapidly removed because of the force of the blowby pressure .the oil flowing along with the fuel , carbons the head, valve and exhaust,ect ,, this is why you check often untill you determine your loss if the top 1/8 is gone in 50 to 100 miles it did you no good,, the very top will blow out quickly,as the level drops the pressure does not effect it as much.. I understand this is alien to normal mindset ,especially on engines that wholed less than 5 quarts.. I have no fear to run 20w50 in old engine when this starts to drop fast its STP time the oil thickeners are effective and I have never heard of them harming an engine.. synthetic actually increased my oil pressure on 4.3 V6 with 200,000 miles don t know why

It did need another half quart to top it off right at the last mark on the stick. Went for a spin and it did seem to increase the pressure a bit but I still get a total needle drop and the oil light comes on when making a sharp left turn. I'm willing to try anything before I take off the bloody oil pan again so I'll drain and put in 10w-30 and pre-fill the filter next weekend. Is it detrimental to the engine driving it in this condition? The pressure is fine at idle and straight driving.

edit: What are the symptons if the screen falls off the tube? I wonder if this may be the problem?

[This message has been edited by Gokart (edited 10-21-2007).]

I have seen these symptons when the oil pickup tube falls out of the oil pump, The pump is no longer drawing its oil from the bottom of the pan and when you go around a corner, the oil sloshes to one side of the pan. If the pump is to the left side of the crank that would explain why when you make a left turn the oil sloshes to the right side of the pan and the pump starts sucking air. The lower your oil level the worse symptoms ie. you wouldn't have to go as fast around a corner to starve for oil. Just a thought. Good luck.

My experience with high mileage engines is that you must use heavier oil to compensate for bearing wear. Of course the real fix is a rebuild but not many people want to hear that. I am currentlly using Shell Rotella T 15-40 in my 86GT with 128k on the clock. The engine is smooth as silk but at hot idle the light flickers. I can live with it until I get my new engine in.

More replies and pluses....thanks Sounds like my prob is not that big a deal for now and some of us are still driving even with an oil light from time to time. I'll keep a close eye on it this week and change the oil again next weekend to a heavier grade. While I have the drain plug out I'm going to stick my antenna magnet in there is see if it picks up something.....like an oil pump pick-up tube/screen

[This message has been edited by Gokart (edited 10-21-2007).]

I did a rebuild on an engine that had STP in it once, there was a 3/4 " of it on the bottom of the pan. It starved the oil pump of oil. Ruined the engine. I will never use STP in an engine of mine.
Joe